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Hello all. I've decided to start doing my own oil changes on my Tucson. It has about 18k miles and I just had the last oil changed at the dealership this past Friday. I've been doing my own oil changes on my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS since I got in back in 2004. I've always used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic with the Mobil 1 Extreme Performance oil filter. This combo has always worked great for me. I do oil changes on it every 5k miles. I know I can go longer but since the car is now 18 yrs old and has about 103k miles, I like to play it safe.

Now, back to the Tucson. I've been having the dealership do them since I bought it new. I take it in every 5k miles. I've noticed that they replace the drain plug gasket, drain plug, oil filter, and the oil has been different every time. Most recent was Amalie 5W-20. Before that, Valvoline SynPower 5W-20. I usually pay $25 for the oil change and its never taken more than 1 hour from the minute I walk in till the minute I walk out. I've taken it mostly for convenience as sometimes I just don't feel like dealing with it on my own. Also, this is my very first brand new car. So I've thought it was better to have the dealership do it so there's a record in their system in case there's ever any warranty issues.

Looking for opinions/recommendations on how to start my own DYI on my Tucson. Should I follow the same oil/filter combo as for my Celica (Mobil 1 Full Synthetic oil and Extreme Performance filter)? Should I use the Mobil 1 oil but go with OEM Hyundai filters? Is replacing the drain plug and drain plug gasket absolutely necessary on every oil change.

I currently pay $38 for the oil/filter combo when I do my Celica's oil change. $23 for 5qt jug from Walmart and $15 for the filter from AutoZone. I'll end up paying a little more than what I pay the dealership, but money is not really the issue. I just feel like why keep taking it to the dealership when I can do it myself. This is the only vehicle I've owned which I've taken to the dealership for anything. Celica and previous cars, I've done everything needed myself. Basic maintenance to more complex repairs.
 

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I hope they were not putting 5W-20 in the 1.6T.
 

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Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic is the only oil I found at walmart with the correct ACEA A5/B5 rating. So that's what I use, but I use genuine hyundai oil filters from the dealership. They're surprisingly not overpriced at $7 and it includes a new crush washer. At least, my dealership says they put the crush washer in every box and charges $1 for it as a line item on the receipt. So it might very by dealer. The genuine hyundai filter is a quality filter made by Wix, so it's actually a good part. When you cut one open, it's made of good materials, not some cheap junky fram filter.

Also, there's a record of me buying filters at the hyundai dealership in their computer. They can divide the amount of miles on the car by the amount of filters I purchased, if it's around 5k miles per filter, then they can't say I didn't do the proper maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic is the only oil I found at walmart with the correct ACEA A5/B5 rating. So that's what I use, but I use genuine hyundai oil filters from the dealership. They're surprisingly not overpriced at $7 and it includes a new crush washer. At least, my dealership says they put the crush washer in every box and charges $1 for it as a line item on the receipt. So it might very by dealer. The genuine hyundai filter is a quality filter made by Wix, so it's actually a good part. When you cut one open, it's made of good materials, not some cheap junky fram filter.

Also, there's a record of me buying filters at the hyundai dealership in their computer. They can divide the amount of miles on the car by the amount of filters I purchased, if it's around 5k miles per filter, then they can't say I didn't do the proper maintenance.
Thanks for the reply. I'm not familiar with what "ACEA A5/B5 rating" is and how does it apply to the Tucson.
 

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Decided to call up the service dept where I take my Tucson and have another talk with them about the oil grade being used. They explained they put in 5W-20 because its recommended in FL because of the year round heat. She said 5W-30 is used more up north (NJ where I moved from) because of the cold winters. To me this sounds like the completely opposite. Shouldn't 5W-20 be more common in colder states because it is thinner and thereby flow easier. She also mentioned they use a Synthetic Blend oil which can vary in brand. Lastly, she said although the owner's manual states 5k miles between oil changes, they recommend 3-4k miles because of the heat in Florida.

Now I really don't know whether to believe them or follow the recommend intervals in the owner's manual. If they are wrong and making up their own stuff, I think this can have serious implications on vehicles being serviced there and future warranty claims.
 

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I am somewhat dyselxic and even I know 30 weight would be more appropriate in Florida. I would say your advisor is giving you bad advice. I guess they don't state which type of advisor they are. :grin2:

I would open the owner's manual and follow what it says. I have used Pennzoil Platinum and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum with good results so I am partial to those oils.
 

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Do whatever your service manual says.
Dealers simply try to increase profits by scaring people into doing servicing more often or servicing parts that simply don't need servicing.
Synthetic blend is not synthetic.
Can you upload the manual pages that apply to your car and we can see what it says?
And the oil you put in (PARTICULARLY in a turbo) needs to exactly match or exceed what is in your manual, so the ACEA grade is as important as the weight of the oil.
 

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Funny this topic should come up as I just got back from the local dealer where I spoke with the lead tech (old friend) about which synthetic weight to use on the three vehicles in the fleet. 1.8l, 2.0l GDI, and 2.4lGDI all three he says 5W20. I asked about 10W30 for our climate and he says no. 10W30 for turbos only.

Now that I'm on a real keyboard I will elaborate on what he said. The oil ports in the heads of the non-turbo engines that control the CVVT are small. They have seen several cases (1.8, 2.0, and 2.4) where 10W30 was used and the tip in throttle response became sluggish, and in some started throwing codes. I asked about using it in the summers in Houston and he still says no. That the 5W20 needs to be used to keep the correct CVVT performance in the non-turbocharged engines. Says definitely stick with 10W30 on the 1.6T and 2.0T engines. Different animal.

And his preferences for synthetic were Mobil 1 in his truck (bought used, and that's what previous owner used), Castrol in the car, and Amsoil in the Harley. He agreed that the top six synthetics are all really good, each with slight tweaks in different areas. Told him I was going with Valvoline Advanced full synthetic, he says good choice. And as I walked away he said "Use an OEM filter, or if you don't, make sure the filter has a GOOD check valve." Don't want to start any CVVT engine, Hyundai or otherwise, with the oil drained back.
 

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Just looked in my manual (Australia) and for the 1.6T here, 5W20 is NOT listed. (Pages 8-7 to 8-9)
For the 1.6T, we are allowed 5w30, 5w40, 10w30, 15w40 and 20w50 and ACEA A5 (or above)

Read YOUR manual
 

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Decided to call up the service dept where I take my Tucson and have another talk with them about the oil grade being used. They explained they put in 5W-20 because its recommended in FL because of the year round heat. She said 5W-30 is used more up north (NJ where I moved from) because of the cold winters. To me this sounds like the completely opposite. Shouldn't 5W-20 be more common in colder states because it is thinner and thereby flow easier. She also mentioned they use a Synthetic Blend oil which can vary in brand. Lastly, she said although the owner's manual states 5k miles between oil changes, they recommend 3-4k miles because of the heat in Florida.

Now I really don't know whether to believe them or follow the recommend intervals in the owner's manual. If they are wrong and making up their own stuff, I think this can have serious implications on vehicles being serviced there and future warranty claims.
Dude (or dudette, not sure on the username. :) )

Check your manual. I don't think your service writer knows what they are talking about. Our temps here are about what you get in Florida, maybe a bit warmer in August, and the lead tech here says turbo engines are spec'd for 10W30 in our climate, and NEVER 5W20.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I'm not familiar with what "ACEA A5/B5 rating" is and how does it apply to the Tucson.
ACEA is more of a specification, not like a rating where higher = better. The engineers at Hyundai designed this engine and specified ACEA A5/B5 for it's specific properties like friction modifiers and higher shear temperature etc....

But it specifically states in the manual that you should use ACEA A5/B5 oil, it's recommended. In the asterik's section below the chart, they say you can use any oil that is specified ILSAC GF3 or ACEA A3(or higher) if your country doesn't have the recommended oil. Unfortunately they do make synthetic blends in ILSAC GF3, so the dealer could get away with using a syn-blend, but I still don't think 5w20 is acceptable for the 1.6T.

Dealers tend to run oil change specials that they lose money on. So they use the oil they can buy by the barrel. It's messed up that they put 5w20 in your car. They don't care how long your engine lasts, as long as it gets past the 100k warranty period. Here's what it actually says in the manual:

Engine oil viscosity (thickness) has an effect on fuel economy and cold
weather operating (engine start and engine oil flowability). Lower viscosity
engine oils can provide better fuel economy and cold weather performance,
however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication
in hot weather. Using oils of any viscosity other than those recommended
could result in engine damage. When choosing an oil, consider the range of
temperature your vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change.
Proceed to select the recommended oil viscosity from the chart
They should be using a thicker oil in Florida, not thinner. The chart for the 1.6T doesn't specify any 20 weight oil. It specifies 30 weight as the thinnest and even suggests 40 for hotter weather, and 50 for really hot weather. https://cdn.dealereprocess.net/cdn/servicemanuals/hyundai/2016-tucson.pdf
 

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ACEA is a European spec. It is not needed. API/ILSAC are US specs. In the owners manual, lots of this or that or this or that.... key word is OR and there are other options when whatevers aren't available. And, check out the list of usable grades in the owners manual and the factory service manual.

Hyundai didn't design the engine for an oil spec. They simply recommend oil spec's for their design. And, with the number engines that I've seen since the Excel days, I would say they didn't pick a robust enough oil to keep their pathetic engine designs running too long.

IMO, unless Hyundai is more straightforward with their engine design failures, I would only use a 5w40 with any Hyundai/Kia equipped with a turbo. Save the 5w30 MPG oil for the 2.0/2.4 GDI and NA engines.

ACEA demands a little less NOACK.... <13% vs <15% for API/ILSAC SN/GF5.... This means that they are typically full synthetic or a higher end blends. Dexos requires a noack which is <12%. So, if your oil is on the DEXOS list, it usually be better than ACEA A5/B5. So, please don't force or push ACEA in the USA or Canada. We don't all live in Europe. What American stores stock on their shelves will be different than what European stores stock.

If you are stuck on a 5w30, then your best best is use one of the Dexos list. I hate GM but at least they make their fluid specs public for competitors to blend against each other.

Dexos1 is the lower HTHS typically full synthetic SN/GF5 that might the tougher requirements demanded by GM for LIGHT DUTY ENGINES:
https://www.centerforqa.com/dexos-brand2015/
Dexos2 is the higher HTHS oils that work with the 'tougher engines' that need it, and as a upgrade for some engines that are tracked/raced...
https://www.centerforqa.com/dexos-brand2/

Don't get hung up on ACEA. Do use a fully synthetic oil. And, again, for any turbo, I recommend ANY 5w40 oil, which are usually for demanding diesel or euro gasoline engines. Protect your engine.

If your dealer used 5w20 in a turbo, I would put in a complaint with the Hyundai help line. I would then give them some negative feedback online too. Just be honest and keep your receipts. Post a copy of your receipts with the 5w20 on it. If that dealer is using incorrect oil with all their 'turbo' services, then customers of that dealer need to push for some 'warranty extension' from the dealer, along with an apology. They need to make it right.

If you're in a northern cold climate, I would consider the 0w40's for winter usage, even though every engine should have no problem starting with a 5w40.
 
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I'm just curious as to why Mobile 1 meets Dexos 1 but only states ACEA A1 but not other ACEA specifications. There has to be a reason for that, perhaps it's just a fuel economy improvement target or could be another specification it doesn't have. I can understand Hyundai not listing Dexos though, because it's a GM specification.

Who knows why the engineers chose that standard, it could have been eenie meenie miniee mo, or just wanted a very specific target for a certain specification, or somewhere in between. But why question it? The oils are the same price at walmart so you might as well get what Hyundai recommends.

This was the only comparison chart I could find made by Lubrizol, but it's only for diesel cars. Unfortunately they don't make a tool like this for gasoline cars. But it shows there are quite a few differences between the oils, at least for diesels anyways.
 

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The problem with Lubrizol is that their oil comparison charts don't have a defined scale, how they created the scale, and what the requirements are for each scale spec. I like their tool but its really useless since you can't compare different engine tests. And, does Lubrizol use Dexos1-gen2 or the earlier spec for their so-called comparisons/guestimates?

Mobil sells different oil in the USA for US market vehicles when compared to foreign markets. In Europe, the fuel economy 0w30 is an A5/B5 oil.

Why do different countries use the metric system? Why do some countries drive on the wrong side of the road? Why do those cars have a steering wheel on the wrong side?
 

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I frequent BITOG and there is a lot of talk of Dexos 1 Gen 2 which addresses LSPI for small displacement turbo motors.

https://www.centerforqa.com/dexos-brand2015/

Mobil 1 meets both ACEA 5 and Dexos 1 Gen 2:

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1#5W-30

Regarding crush washer I flipped mine over since I did not have a new one. I did install an EZ Oil Drain valve which is like a Fumoto valve I used on a previous car. It means less mess and no more worry about crush washer and torquing drain plug.

Regarding filter Hyundai is going to recommend OEM. Many members here recommended Fram Ultra XG9688. I will be using one next oil change. Fram did a lot of testing to ensure it met Hyundai specs. Jay Buckley the Tech Director of Fram posts at BITOG under user name Motorking and provides a lot of info on this filter. If you need technical data he can provide it.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...cs/4028745/Re:_Flow_vs_efficiency#Post4028745

Flemmons, if the 10w-30 I will use next oil change causes a code to be thrown then Hyundai will need to re-write the owners manual or redesign the motor.:|

I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 all last summer and car ran fine.
 

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Your car, their design. Just forwarding the information I was given.
Thanks for the info! I actually heard something similar from a Kia Tech at BITOG, but he was talking about not using 40 weight oil. The 10w-30 I will use is on the thin side of the spectrum so I think I will be OK. If I experience performance issues I will not use it again.
 

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One thing I didn't really see discussed here that I'd like to ask, is the warranty and changing your own oil.

I too am going to start changing my own oil. But will that ever put me in a situation where my warranty would be declined since I'm not having the dealer do it (since they keep a record).
I have been recording everything I do to the car (maintenance) in the maintenance log. I will also be keeping all receipts that show I purchased the oil, filters, oil plug washers, etc.
I will be using Hyundai OEM oil filters. I plan on using this oil
https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550045201-Ultra-Platinum-Synthetic/dp/B01M266FWZ
(Also please tell me what you all think of this oil).

Edit: and while we're at it, am I correct in thinking that I should be able to access everything without jacking up the car? I got under it yesterday and I saw what appeared to be the oil plug front and center, protruding out from the undercarriage cover. There's also an access panel on the undercarriage cover that appears to allow you to get to the oil filter. Am I correct?
 

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I can change the oil on my Elantra with car parked. Car is so low it scrapes parking bumpers. With an SUV it should be easier.

I am using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum now. It is an upgrade from Pennzoil Platinum. It is a great oil.

I also had concerns with warranty since I DYI. Keeping good records and following what the owner's manual recommends is the main thing. I also post my oil change at MyHyundai. It tells me when I need to change oil next and has an online version of owner manual recommendations.

https://www.hyundaiusa.com/MyHyundai/Home/Index?doLogin=true
 
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