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where is the drain plug for 2013 accent gs. im planning on an oil change but got under the car to find the drain plug and i can't find it..

automatic btw
 

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Engine oil drain is on the engine oil pan..

ATF drain is on the auto trans oil pan.
 

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Couple of quick points, JimmeE: Don't expect that oil drain plug to come off as easily, nor the oil filter to simply unscrew with a quick twist of the fingertips as seen in the video. If it was only this easy. Obviously, pre-loosened for illustration purposes. If this is the first time this oil has been changed, expect to use some muscle on both items. If you don't have an oil filter wrench that fits that itty-bitty filter, do yourself a favor and go to the auto parts store and invest in one that fits!

For us veteran's, especially those of you that are anal about neatness :)rolleyes:), wasn't it wonderful to see a pro make a mess on the floor?

And that comment when reinstalling the plug back into the pan, "Alright, we're just about done draining, here," didn't set too well with me, either. Just about? There was still oil draining from the port. Seriously? For real? I have NEVER put an oil plug back into the pan when it was "just about done draining." And no OEM oil filter? Oh, sacrilege! Say it ain't so. I call, "Foul!" ;)

On a positive note, kudos to the owner for being pro-active and taking the time to see that it was done. :thumbsup:
 

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In my experience ( a couple oil changes ), the Accent is probably one of the easiest oil changes that I can remember once you have everything sorted out. You definitely have to laugh at the How-To video though...they were evidently going over budget and had to wrap up the oil drain. "You get the idea..."

If you're experiencing it like I did, the square, black pan with the plug facing the front of the car that CAN'T be the oil pan....actually IS the oil pan. I found the oil filter to be the tougher part. To make it easy, you need an oil filter cap for a socket wrench that fits this filter...which is difficult to find. If you have a Harbor Freight store near you they carry a set of four oil filter caps in a package for around $6.00 dollars. The one in that package that's 80mm with ( I believe ) 15 teeth is the exact size. All of the auto parts stores I checked didn't carry that size and were limited to strap wrenches and two or three cap sizes. I think this is an instance where an oil filter wrench cap really helps.
 

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...they were evidently going over budget and had to wrap up the oil drain. "You get the idea..."
Right you are, sir. Production cost overruns. Probably couldn't pay for the editing room to cut and splice into a polished product. LMAO

Harbor Freight, has it's faults, I know. But by golly, there are moments you're glad you walked in...much like the oil filter wrench caps, an excellent example.

If I'm looking for some specialty item (plastic trim tools, for example) that I'll rarely use, I can usually find it there for pennies on the dollar. Other more critical items warrant laying out the big bucks. Besides, it's a great opportunity to escape from the wife and daydream. There's been times, I would pay just to do that!
 

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The one thing to note about the plug location is how it points forward. Which means you need to lower the front of the car to at least level otherwise you'll retain dirty oil and won't be able to refill with the specified 3.5 quarts (more like 3 quarts if you don't lower the front).

There have been threads about "my car won't take 3.5 quarts." I'm not sure we ever resolved this perfectly, but in some cases it seemed to be because the front wasn't lowered.

It's an important point if you use ramps to raise your car. If you roll the car off the ramps to make it level (and get the last bit of oil out), you'll have trouble replacing the drain plug.

I'm sure your next question will be "how do I jack my car up?" I posted something showing where to jack and where to put the jackstands.

I've since purchased a hockey puck and cut a 1/4" wide slot in it (deep enough for the pinchweld to sit in). The slot's about 20% off center (so more of the puck sits under the raised pad behind the pinchweld).

If you don't want to spend $80 on a hydraulic lift like I did, Harbor Freight has a scissor jack which should work (it looks like it puts the load on the pad, not the pinchweld).

If you do buy that hydraulic jack, I strongly recommend draining and replacing the fluid. A lot inexpensive Chinese stuff is pretty good material and design, but assembled poorly. Replacing the fluid and bleeding it correctly can make the difference between having a reliable jack and one that "only worked twice" (like some reviews). I've found this to be true with a lot of inexpensive Chinese stuff like bicycles, etc.

FYI: If you buy from HF, you can look on eBay for coupons. You can find 20% off coupons (or coupons for a specific product like that jack). The coupon might cost $2, and you save $20. It's worth looking. I got my jackstands that way. I found a coupon on eBay for half price.
 

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The splash shield on my 2012 SE completely covers the drain plug and filter and must be removed. I am however, able to do the entire job without raising the car. It's a bit of a squeeze but easier than raising the car.
 
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