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Nice!
Also would like to know how it's attached.
 

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Count me in on all above requests! That's fabulous. Supplier? Cost? Time? Degree of difficulty? Stuff like that...
 

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These should be standard on on all MD models :D
At about 5 times what it would cost you and I to do it. Plus finance charges over the term of the loan. LOL

Saw an addendum window sticker on a Hyundai, yesterday. Leather seats, mind you! And the price list read like this: $895 Market Adjustment (aka profit), $495 seat protectant (again, profit), and here's the best one: Nitrogen-filled tires with lifetime refill: $199. Local tire store offers same for $5 a wheel, free replenishment. I can only imagine what they would have charged for these illuminated door sills.

Roughly $1,600 in "dealer adds!" Ridiculous! It's no wonder people find themselves "upside down" after a purchase. I'll install the door sills myself, Mr. Dealer. Once Stresstest provides us with the "how-to's," that is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
YouTube

The video shows the color as an aquamarine to my eye. But the color is actually the deep blue color we all know that LEDs produce. It is not glaring in brightness, it is sorta soft light but vibrant enough to stick out for sure. The eBay auction I linked above shows the color more accurately.

Ok. So how to wire. I should have taken pics of this process. The good news is I ran out of connectors so I still have to complete the front passenger door. I can take pics tonight of the process

Tools needed:
Lighted "ice pick" style 12v test light with ground clip
Multi meter with continuity test function that "beeps" when the leads are touched together
Fine pair of needle nose or other device able to get into a small hole and grasp wire to pull back out.
Torx screwdriver for door pin switches (Sorry, forget the size)

Here it is essentially. When I call out specifics remember I am using the drivers front door as reference.

1. Throw out the instruction sheet that came with it unless you read Korean but take note of the bottom left picture first. It shows both the hot and ground connected.

2. Once you pop off the old sill plates and the interior trim you will see that the wire can be passed into the cab using the rear most mounting hole in the sill and running the wire through into the interior mounting trim clip hole. I twisted the wire leads together, shaped it onto a "u" shape and fished it in through the rocker panel till I could see it from the interior hole. Using a fine pair of needle nose I was able to go in and grab the end and pull it into the cab.

3. Split the wire harness open in the area where you fished the wire into the cab at. (electrical tape and wire loom removal)

4. get a Torx bit / screwdriver and remove the door pin switch for the door you are working on. It will have a wire harness plugged into it with a common ground (Black) and a B+ 12v lead. Take note of the wire color for B+ as it is different for each door. (repeat for each door)

5. Remove pin switch from harness. Place one probe from multi meter into greyish-wite (drivers door) wire side. Using the other leads poke into the same color wires in the harness where you brought the power leads into the cab. There were 3 wires in my harness of the same color. It was the second one I poked that gave me the tone on the multi meter confirming this was the same wire at the door pin.

6. Using my connector I attached the ground wire from the panel mod to to the greyish-white wire (drivers door).

7. Using the 12volt lighted test probe I attached the ground strap to the door latch on the body of the car and poked into the "RED" wires in the bundle till I found one that was energized (while ignition was off). Attach the red wire from the panel mod using your connector to this wire.

8. Re-attach the wire harness to the door pin switch and remount using the Torx screwdriver.

9. Before buttoning anything up, test for function. You can do this with or without the car acc being turned on. With the door open visually inspect the sill is lit up. Manually press the pin switch for that sill to see that it goes off/on with presses and releases. Once verified and a visual inspection of the connections is done verifying there will be no short circuit issues, button up the harness by reapplying new electrical tape in those areas that had it and tuck the cables back into the wire loom in the areas that had it, then reinstall the interior trim panel. Test for function before going to the next door.

10. rinse and repeat for the remaining doors.
 

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At about 5 times what it would cost you and I to do it. Plus finance charges over the term of the loan. LOL

Saw an addendum window sticker on a Hyundai, yesterday. Leather seats, mind you! And the price list read like this: $895 Market Adjustment (aka profit), $495 seat protectant (again, profit), and here's the best one: Nitrogen-filled tires with lifetime refill: $199. Local tire store offers same for $5 a wheel, free replenishment. I can only imagine what they would have charged for these illuminated door sills.

Roughly $1,600 in "dealer adds!" Ridiculous! It's no wonder people find themselves "upside down" after a purchase. I'll install the door sills myself, Mr. Dealer. Once Stresstest provides us with the "how-to's," that is.
Seen one at my dealer a few months ago. It was from a hyundai dealer in FL. Final sticker price $30K for a Elantra.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Some more pics.

wire comes up here in the cab


Pin switch removed






Wire that matched the one on the pin switch when I tested continuity. Ground wire goes to this one


Constant 12v wire I used and found with the ice pick test probe
 

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couple of questions
Is the ground wire at the door switch always black? If not how to tell which is the ground wire.
Is it necessary ( I am guessing not) to remove insulation from the wire(s) in the loom to check for continuity?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
couple of questions
Is the ground wire at the door switch always black? If not how to tell which is the ground wire.
Is it necessary ( I am guessing not) to remove insulation from the wire(s) in the loom to check for continuity?

thanks

1. Yes the ground is always black on each, but you need to ground your sill plates to the colored wire on the pin switch harness. The pin switch acts as the on/off to ground that way.

2. The harnesses are densely packed, you will need to remove insulation / wire loom to get at the right wires in it.
 

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1. Yes the ground is always black on each, but you need to ground your sill plates to the colored wire on the pin switch harness. The pin switch acts as the on/off to ground that way.

2. The harnesses are densely packed, you will need to remove insulation / wire loom to get at the right wires in it.
Thanks Stresstest
On 2) what i was meaning (i didnt explain myself very well) to find the correct wires do i need to remove some insulation from each wire that i am testing or will the tester work through the insulation on the wire

clear as mud i know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Stresstest
On 2) what i was meaning (i didnt explain myself very well) to find the correct wires do i need to remove some insulation from each wire that i am testing or will the tester work through the insulation on the wire

clear as mud i know!

You have to poke through the insulation so the probe tip touches the copper, yes. So you need sharp probes for the multi meter. If they arent that type you can sharpen them on a stone or a small file to get that done.
 

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You have to poke through the insulation so the probe tip touches the copper, yes. So you need sharp probes for the multi meter. If they arent that type you can sharpen them on a stone or a small file to get that done.
thanks, that makes sense!
I have been wanting these illuminated sill plates for my tucson for a while now!
 

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