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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

My 2007 Accent dome light stopped working on me. I replaced the bulb with no luck. I then checked all the fuses, even the ones under the hood and don't see any that are blown. I also checked to make sure the door jamb buttons are stuck and they are fine.

I don't see any other problems with the vehicle that would make me think it is a fuse such as the clock being out or something like that. Am I looking at a bad switch at this point? Not sure how to troubleshoot further.

Thanks!
 

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DVOM is your friend.. I have not been able to visual electric voltage, so I use a meter that displays numbers that I can relate to..

Inspect voltage at both lugs of dome bulb socket for source voltage and ground.. work your way back from there.. Toyota likes to corrode the contacts at dome switch (steel ball and metal terminal strips) and have major voltage drop.. hence no bulb illumination.

Probe each leg of fuse at top of fuse for voltage at both side.. voltage at 1 side and "0" at other is sure fire "open circuit"... replace fuse
 

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Discussion Starter #3
DVOM is your friend.. I have not been able to visual electric voltage, so I use a meter that displays numbers that I can relate to..

Inspect voltage at both lugs of dome bulb socket for source voltage and ground.. work your way back from there.. Toyota likes to corrode the contacts at dome switch (steel ball and metal terminal strips) and have major voltage drop.. hence no bulb illumination.

Probe each leg of fuse at top of fuse for voltage at both side.. voltage at 1 side and "0" at other is sure fire "open circuit"... replace fuse
Do you or anyone else know what fuse is supposed to control the dome light? I don't see a fuse labeled domelight or anything even close. Thanks.
 

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It's the 'MULT B/UP' fuse in the instrument panel fuse block (driver's side of the dash.) Look for the big yellow "power connector" as Hyundai calls it. It's one of those two fuses within. It's designed to be pulled out to disconnect the connection for this circuit so your can have less draw if the vehicle is not driven for an extended period.

Controls all of this stuff:
Luggage Lamp, Room Lamp, Vanity Lamp Switch, Digital Clock,Overhead
Consol Lamp, A/C Control Module, Instrument Cluster, Door Warning Switch,
BCM, Tire Pressure Monitoring Module
If your trip odometer and clock reset at each ignition cycle, check for a blown fuse there.

IIRC there should be 12v going to the light at all times and the ground is switched with the doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's the 'MULT B/UP' fuse in the instrument panel fuse block (driver's side of the dash.) Look for the big yellow "power connector" as Hyundai calls it. It's one of those two fuses within. It's designed to be pulled out to disconnect the connection for this circuit so your can have less draw if the vehicle is not driven for an extended period.

Controls all of this stuff:


If your trip odometer and clock reset at each ignition cycle, check for a blown fuse there.

IIRC there should be 12v going to the light at all times and the ground is switched with the doors.
Those fuses "looked" okay, but I will try to switch them out. Haven't noticed any issues with the clock or trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just wanted to post an update. I used a multi-meter to see if there was voltage at the light socket and sure enough there was. The first replacement bulb I bought was actually bad. Unreal. Oh well fixed now. Thanks all.
 

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I had the same problem on my 2010 Santa Fe. When front door is opened, the rear dome light comes on OK but the front light does not work.

Based on comments I saw on the internet, I assumed that the diode in my overhead light asm had blown. So I did the following:
1) Removed the overhead light asm by removing 2 Phillips screws, then pulled asm down from ceiling & unplugged cable.
2) Removed electrical board from overhead light asm by removing 4 Phillips screws and unsnapping 2 black plastic tabs.
3) Soldered another diode right next to the existing one (I did not bother removing the old one). I made sure that diode orientation is the same (i.e.- silver bar is on the same side of both old & new diode)
4) Reattached electrical board to overhead light asm.
5) Plugged cable back in, and replaced the overhead light asm.

This fix worked like a champ! Total repair time = 30 minutes. Total cost = $2.02. I bought 10 relatively beefy diodes from Amazon.com, and now I have 9 spares. For the exact diode that I used, so to Amazon.com and search for B009IN1KB8.
 

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Good work!
I had the same problem with mine. Took me a few days to figure it out...

I kept punching the main on/off switch to the OFF position..:p
 
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