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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anything to be concerned about? Was going to change the plugs anyway but the back 3 will have to wait. The gap on my new plugs measure at .040 and the old ones are .044

Took me 40 minutes to figure out how to unplug the connector to the plug/boot. Looking at all the other connectors, it will take me a few days to figure out. I have the Chilton and shop manual and they say nothing about how to remove these plugs/harnesses. Was hoping to do the front valve cover today with the dry warmer weather, but these harnesses are ridiculous.

https://youtu.be/GZ0pZ6dUaVs


Now noticed these black specs in coolant reservoir. Just dirt or oil? Will do a flush but have no hose, hoping I can just add gallons of distilled water to do the flush.

https://youtu.be/lJsNy1DcTRA
 

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Front plugs is 5 minutes.. lift coils out of tube with wire still plug in.. give you an hr to have rear done

Specs on bottle, wash out and carry on.. drain radiator and refill, all done
 

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For spark plugs you want to watch this: FLUID's blog: Sonata 2006 v6?Changing Spark Plugs

Your spark plug looks OK, but why it looks oily? If as it is, you may need a new pcv valve, which you can get from oreilly auto parts with lifetime warranty.

Use flat screwdriver to remove some of connectors, then put some synthetic grease on clips so you can remove them easier next time. Now it's cold so be careful the plastic can break. You don't have to completely disconnect throttle body, just push it until you have enough space. Torque for spark plugs are 21 ft/lbs, don't tighten bolts too much, you may strip the aluminium and plastic.

Your coolant looks OK, still bright green, usually the black specs come from the heater core, you leave the heater core for a whole summer then there maybe some rust, but not big deal. You can just do a drain and fill. What I did is remove the under cover and fan, use pilers to remove lower radiator hose(from lower passenger side, plastic hose) and big pipes to drain the coolant, unplug the thin pipe that goes from reservoir to rediator cap so you can drain the reservoir. Then add concentrate cooldant with distilled water, squeeze the pipe and top off several times later
 

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Discussion Starter #4
For spark plugs you want to watch this: FLUID's blog: Sonata 2006 v6?Changing Spark Plugs

Your spark plug looks OK, but why it looks oily? If as it is, you may need a new pcv valve, which you can get from oreilly auto parts with lifetime warranty.

Use flat screwdriver to remove some of connectors, then put some synthetic grease on clips so you can remove them easier next time. Now it's cold so be careful the plastic can break. You don't have to completely disconnect throttle body, just push it until you have enough space. Torque for spark plugs are 21 ft/lbs, don't tighten bolts too much, you may strip the aluminium and plastic.

Your coolant looks OK, still bright green, usually the black specs come from the heater core, you leave the heater core for a whole summer then there maybe some rust, but not big deal. You can just do a drain and fill. What I did is remove the under cover and fan, use pilers to remove lower radiator hose(from lower passenger side, plastic hose) and big pipes to drain the coolant, unplug the thin pipe that goes from reservoir to rediator cap so you can drain the reservoir. Then add concentrate cooldant with distilled water, squeeze the pipe and top off several times later
Wow, great detailed write up on that. Just what I was looking for. I still have a feeling I will be stuck trying to disconnect those plugs/harnesses:laugh:

The write up shows 4 bolts on the throttle body, mine only has three. Maybe that is why I have a high idle. Looks like it is not aligned properly for a bolt to fit.

https://imgur.com/gi00jNw

The plug smelled like gas. Though I replaced an alternator that was covered in oil, so it might be oil from the valve cover leak?

I just did it hand tight, snug when putting the plug back in. Will hit it with the torque wrench tomorrow just to be sure. I felt anymore torque by hand would crack the plug.

Lol I tell you I had the whole day planned for fixing the low headlights and changing the front valve cover gasket. Started at 10am and by the time I put the 2nd front spark plug back in it was almost 3pm. Work days must fly by for mechanics.:laugh:


For the coolant, what do you mean by squeeze the pipe? Also Chilton manual says there are two coolant plugs on each side of the engine block. Do you know where those are located? Probably better/easier to do a drain and fill now and a flush when it is warmer out.
 

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Now I get an even higher RPM when starting. It goes 2000 - 2500 and the needle jumps up to 3000 for a second (not touching the gas peddle). Then it slowly goes down to 1500. Before it would start at 1500 rpm and goes down to 1000 after a few minutes. It will stay at 800-1000 after driving though.

I put the old plugs back in and did torque them to spec. I used a spark plug socket.
 

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Now I get an even higher RPM when starting. It goes 2000 - 2500 and the needle jumps up to 3000 for a second (not touching the gas peddle). Then it slowly goes down to 1500. Before it would start at 1500 rpm and goes down to 1000 after a few minutes. It will stay at 800-1000 after driving though.

I put the old plugs back in and did torque them to spec. I used a spark plug socket.
If you buy spark plugs from Autozone or any other part store, they can guarantee the fit, check all the connectors, clean the throttle body, brush the contact surface of battery terminal
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you buy spark plugs from Autozone or any other part store, they can guarantee the fit, check all the connectors, clean the throttle body, brush the contact surface of battery terminal
So the RPM have gone back to what they were at 1200. Think I just needed to drive it a while.

I just removed them to see the condition of them and also because it said to remove them when doing the front valve cover gasket. It took too long just to figure out how to unplug the plug/boot harness, that I will have to do the valve cover another day.

I do have new NGK7854s. Plus I read to replace all of them at once, so I will do them all with both valve cover gaskets when the weather at least gets into the 30s these single digit, negative wind chill temperatures are too brutal:laugh:
 
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