[darvin32]

My rear window shattered and glass in now in the rear speakers. I can't find a way to remove the speakers so I can clean them out. Does anyone know how to remove the rear speakers for a 1999 Hyundai Elantra GLS.

 

[MissMospeed425]

Have a professional do it. You don't want to do it yourself and screw it up or else it's going to cost you twice as much to fix what you screwed up.

 

[wulfers]

Don't know how to yet, but will try tonight. I'll take a deeper look into the Hayne shop manual I have for the Elantra and see what it takes to remove the rear speaker covers. I did see a small blurb about rear speaker replacement and that the entire deck cover can be removed pretty easily. Will post the solution on Thursday or Friday.

As to the glass removal, once you get the deck or speaker covers removed you should be able to use a shop vac or canister vac and gently remove any glass shards from the speakers. Make sure you are using a nozzle on the vac that has a soft bristle, and not just the end of the hose (would be to easy to suck the speaker cone against the nozzle and bust the speaker). If you ever planned on replacing the rear speakers, now is the time since you will have most of the hardware out of the way.

 

[chrissypooh]

Hey, CAN ANYONE HELP ME??? I'm trying to upgrade my rear speakers on my 98 Elantra and I can't figure out how to remove the rear panel.. GRRRRR.... Anyone have ANY idea how I can do this??

 

[wulfers]

:w00t: No need to growl... I will see what has to be done on the rear deck, take a few pix and reply to the forum this weekend. I'll also take off the door panels to see what the fron door speakers are like. The shop manual isn't much help, but I don't mind getting into the hardware to figure it out. I'll also document what the speaker mounting looks like. I did hear that is might require a little sheet metal trimming to get a 6x9 speaker into the stock mounting holes. I have a spare set of 6x9s to I will see if they fit.

 

[Airen]

Anyone figure this out cause I'm having the same problem. Coulnd'nt find a way into the rear speakers. I attempted the front door speakers but stopped before I broke something. I don't feel like paying the professionals if I can do it my self. :thumbsup:

 

[wulfers]

Well I successfully got to my rear speakers. I can still picture the Hyundai engineers laughing their butts off... :bwekk:

Here are the steps...

1. Using a 12mm socket on a long extension 12 - 18" look for the bolt holding the rear seat side bolsters (the parts of the seat that stay up when you fold both halfs of the rear seat down.) Once you have the bolt out, lift up on the bolster and remove. (Do this for both...)
2. Using a flat tip screw driver or a special tool I haven't found yet, remove the top row of the little round plastic moulding plugs, some will come out, some might break if they are a few years old... You can buy replacements at one of the auto parts chains I got 6 for $1.50 so they are pretty disposable...
3. Get a good work light or flash light and lay down on your back under the shelf. Look for any white little push trough moulding pins. They look like little plastic arrowheads. Using a pair of blunt plyers, gently pinch the barbs together and push through the hole. (The grey pins are wire hold downs and don't hold the shelf in place.
4. At this point there are also two black moulding pins at the rear of the shelf (Where a high mount brake light would be if I didn't have a rear spoiler with light). Push these through.
5. Remove the third brake light cup and then you can lift up on the rear deck. Remember this is only plastic covered cardboard. If it doesn't want to come up all the way, you missed a moulding pin or two...
6. Rear speakers measure 6x9, but you may have to trim a little sheet metal since the stock speakers mount from the top down.

From start to finish about 30 - 45 minutes...

Tools needed:

-Pair of blunt nosed slip joint plyers
-Long handled - flat point scre driver (or moulding plug remover - never saw one before)
-Good work light (Flourecent is better)
-12 mm socket + wrench + long (12" - 18") extension.


If you need to trim some metal, you can get a neat little tool at radio shack called a sheet metal nibbler, takes littel 1/4" x 1/4" bites out of sheet metal. Found mine for less than $10.

I just picked up a pair of Jensen 6x9 Coaxials and hope to install them tonight (Yes I've been driving around with no deck cover for a few days... A badge of triumph).

Next step is replacement of the front door speakers... (My shop manual covers that pretty good).

Please let me know if this helps... :thumbsup:

 

[Airen]

Sounds like I got as far as you did but I must have missed some plugs or something. Couldn't get my deck lid off. What shop manual do you have, is it a Haynes?, because I know those are pretty good manuals. Thanks for the reply.

 

[wulfers]

Used a Haynes, but it didn't go into a lot of detail. Had to poke around figure it out and write it down... Front door panel removal seems to be documented much better. I installed a pair of Jensen Co-axials the other night. Big improvement over stock. Had to remove the internal connectors from the plastic cover to let them slide onto the speaker terminals.

Sound improvement was worth it. Now for the front door panels... :banana:

 

[Airen]

Cool, so I finally got it. There were two white push through pins in the upper right and left corners that you couldn't see from the bottom that you had to pop out from the top. I couldn't find them lol. But I got my speakers in and I didn't have to do any trimming with mine, just a little wireing. I want to tackle the door speakers next, but if that turns out to be too much of a pain I think I might just let professionals do it. I quoted the front speaker installation and it was like $55.00.

 

[Airen]

I successfully replaced the front door speakers.... man was that a pain. If you have any questions or problems shoot them at me. I replaced the stock 5 1/2 speakers with 6 1/2 Alpine Type-R speakers ( with some customization of the Alpine bracketing :thumbsup: and some new holes in the door) the installation is perfect and everything works like it is supposed to. There is no interference from the bigger speakers. Sounds awesome with all of them changed rear and front. Well worth the time and effort, just takes a little elbow grease.

 

[Dragonmp5]

There should be 2 plastic pins one on each side that was causing me problems before but my dad helped me get them out.

 

[IAIS]

Originally posted by wulfers@Jan 10 2006, 03:43 PM
Well I successfully got to my rear speakers.  I can still picture the Hyundai engineers laughing their butts off...  :bwekk:

Here are the steps...

1. Using a 12mm socket on a long extension 12 - 18" look for the bolt holding the rear seat side bolsters (the parts of the seat that stay up when you fold both halfs of the rear seat down.)  Once you have the bolt out, lift up on the bolster and remove.  (Do this for both...)
2. Using a flat tip screw driver or a special tool I haven't found yet, remove the top row of the little round plastic moulding plugs, some will come out, some might break if they are a few years old...  You can buy replacements at one of the auto parts chains I got 6 for $1.50 so they are pretty disposable...
3. Get a good work light or flash light and lay down on your back under the shelf.  Look for any white little push trough moulding pins.  They look like little plastic arrowheads.  Using a pair of blunt plyers, gently pinch the barbs together and push through the hole.  (The grey pins are wire hold downs and don't hold the shelf in place.
4. At this point there are also two black moulding pins at the rear of the shelf (Where a high mount brake light would be if I didn't have a rear spoiler with light).  Push these through.
5. Remove the third brake light cup and then you can lift up on the rear deck.  Remember this is only plastic covered cardboard.  If it doesn't want to come up all the way, you missed a moulding pin or two...
6. Rear speakers measure 6x9, but you may have to trim a little sheet metal since the stock speakers mount from the top down.

From start to finish about 30 - 45 minutes...

Tools needed:

-Pair of blunt nosed slip joint plyers
-Long handled - flat point scre driver (or moulding plug remover - never saw one before)
-Good work light (Flourecent is better)
-12 mm socket + wrench + long (12" - 18") extension.
If you need to trim some metal, you can get a neat little tool at radio shack called a sheet metal nibbler, takes littel 1/4" x 1/4" bites out of sheet metal.  Found mine for less than $10.

I just picked up a pair of Jensen 6x9 Coaxials and hope to install them tonight (Yes I've been driving around with no deck cover for a few days...  A badge of triumph).

Next step is replacement of the front door speakers...  (My shop manual covers that pretty good).

Please let me know if this helps...  :thumbsup:

[snapback]26938[/snapback]​

2002 Elantra...basically the same setup...BASICALLY. start to finish (and mind you, this is probably my 15th car stereo installation in 20 years of owning vehicles). your post helped...A LOT...but start to finish (finish meaning being able to sit in the front seat of the car listening to the new speakers, dreading putting the back of the car back together) 2 1/2 hours. but your post did help since i couldn't figure out how to get the seat cushion out as it says on hmaservice.com. thanks for your experience.

IAIS/SR

 

[skpoppa]

How do you get the front door ones. I haven't looked good yet, but it appears the door pocket insert is hooked somewhere since it doesn't move when the screws are all out. I miss my old Mazda, I could take the door off of it in about 5 minutes.

 

[skpoppa]

Ok, actually had some time to look at this better, and got it all the way off. Is there any easy way at unhooking the door lock though besides forcing it through the door panel? I didn't want to try and pop out the pink holder things that hold it to the switch in fear of breaking them off.