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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys I have a 30k mile driven 2012 GLS with a moderately sized single amplifier putting out around 800 watts RMS at a constant 14.4 Volts (Alpine individually tested Spec sheet) or around 600 watts RMS...not that big. I am having a battery or alternator (or both) issue. does anyone know if adding an amplifier will void the warranty? All of a sudden it won't hold a charge and I've never had any significant dimming or odd electrical fluctuations ever.

my last car had multiple amps totalling over 1500 watts RMS being ran through the alternator and battery (yellow top deep cell) and I never had a single problem so I don't know if I just have a bad alternator or if I am slowly draining my stock battery. In my experience, a single amp shouldn't kill a battery or put too much of a load onto the alternator. Bad parts or what? anyone know if hyundai will likely pick a fight regarding the warranty on this? I don't think they should but I heard often times it's down to the dealer/company.

either way I'm stuck at Advance Auto Parts right now getting a diagnosis and they're charging my battery to reconfirm if they believe it's an alternator and/or battery issue. Any help experience or knowledge is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: Advance Auto charged my battery and it resulted after being tested again as a perfectly functioning battery. They then retested the alternator and found that it isn't processing the charge correctly so its a bad alternator. I learned the alternator for my 2012 GLS is a 90 amp maximum capacity....not sure what the car runs on even with high beams and AC at max, and i don't know how much more of a load the amp will add to it, but it should be well below 90 amps and definately something that doesn't fry the alternator. When the alternator started going bad it then sucked power out of the battery. So, anyone know how many amps the car runs at normally (without aftermarket amp added). I'm wondering how much headroom so to speak the car has and/or whether I just have a bad alternator. Any thoughts also on the warrently aspects....with less than two years of age and only a small amp....it should not kill an alternator IMO, so i got a case i guess if they give me trouble
 

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What about just removing your amp and sub box and your power lead wire and bringing it into the shop and play none the wiser?
 

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Maybe........This is one of those gray areas. You modified the electrical system by adding a significant load and now have problems with the electrical charging/reserve systems. Depends upon how the dealer sees it I'd think.

600W RMS is 50Amps at 12V. The alternator is only rated at 90A. But it is not designed to continuously provide (24/7) that current. It is a short-term thing. I don't know what the Elantra electrical system draws. The most basic car I know can use about 18 Amps with all the accessories on. "All" means heater and lights and wipers. That's about it. That is a 1950's car with zero electronics. With EPS, computers and other electrically powered things that the Elantra has, more of an alternators capacity is busy doing other things than earlier cars might. So there is less avilable for other accessories. Whether it is warranty issue or not, could be a judgement call.

Let's hope that the problem is only a discharged battery.

P.S. it looks like we crossed posted.
 

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I would probably pull the amp and wiring before you take it in and give it a few weeks after the repair to make sure it functions properly. If it breaks again then its on you.
 

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my last car had multiple amps totalling over 1500 watts RMS being ran through the alternator and battery (yellow top deep cell) and I never had a single problem
Things have changed in the name of the almighty MPG rating. Towing capacity has gone to zero, and "smart" alternators have been installed in an effort to put as little load as possible on the engine. I wouldn't expect a modern Elantra to handle a 1500 watt amp as well as an older car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
At the dealer now....will update everyone on what they say is the issue and if they pick a fight on whether my amp is a warrenty issue or not.
 

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If your amp caused extra wear or strain on the alternator, then that's not a manufacture's defect and should not be covered as a repair under warranty.

I know that's not what you're hoping to hear, but the warranty is only for defects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
They are replacing the alternator. They said it is completely dead. They never asked about my amp, or never noticed the power wire. They are currently getting the part from a local dealer with plans to install. No fuss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If your amp caused extra wear or strain on the alternator, then that's not a manufacture's defect and should not be covered as a repair under warranty.

I know that's not what you're hoping to hear, but the warranty is only for defects.
I agree with your comment... if I had a monster amp, but I don't. Even if 600 watts is 50 Amps, the amp doesn't put out a constant 600 watts due to my gains being lowered on the amp and the fact that I listen 90% of the time at a low-moderate volume. So I'm actually not adding 50 amps to the alternator's 90 amp load limit. And, technically, if you add or plug in any electrical component to the car (cell phone charger, laptop/IPAD, navigation, Ipod swap the HU with aftermarket unit, etc.....that is technically adding more strain on the alternator, and that shouldn't void any warrenty (perhaps my amp pushes it over the load....hard to say). I need to determine a stock amp load on an Elantra GLS with high beams and air conditioner at full blast....that way I could take that number and estimate if my amp is likely to have burned the alternator out or if it was a bad unit (or both). Either way, this dealer IMHO is doing the right thing.....if another alt goes bad in two more years, then they may have more of a case.

Also, no alternator/battery warning light ever came on and my lights never dimmed during times when I played my music loudly. I thought these high tech engines these days will properly detect electrical failure due to the advanced computer warning light indicators....but nothing ever showed.

Either way, I think it would be a worthy contribution to this forum to attain the knowledge of the standard everyday amp load on the 90 amp max stock alternator. I'll try to get that answer and also later post what my amp load is given my sound system setup. I just won't make that effort at the dealer today. :)
 

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Sounds like nothing more than your alternator crapping out. Possibly just a blown diode or so, not uncommon.
 

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They are replacing the alternator. They said it is completely dead. They never asked about my amp, or never noticed the power wire. They are currently getting the part from a local dealer with plans to install. No fuss.
And so another set of warranty worries gets put to bed because, in truth, the dealer doesn't care. They get paid to swap parts under warranty, and have little incentive to deny a claim unless it is so obviously bogus that the factory might catch on.
 

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Glad they took care of it. Electrical stuff can be tricky though and if extended diagnosis was required then I suspect the amp may have been blamed as a culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, they told me they think the amp was the culprit, but couldn't confirm the amp load on the alternator. They left the amp unplugged after it was fixed. I'm going to determine the amp load pre and post amp. The paperwork doesn't mention the amp either. So all others, proceed.
 

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It's been a long time since I've messed with it, but an old tach-dwell meter had the capability to install and shunt and measure the amount of current flowing from the alternator to the battery.

I think Autozone/Advance/Pep Boys/etc. battery tester also shows this during it's test.

You could use this to measure the current going to the battery with the radio turned off and again with the radio turned on.
 

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I've got an amp that's presently running at 1ohm putting out 2000watts rms 4000watts peak & never had an issue with my battery or alternator, even had a Japanese Audio 1000watts amp before that installed it within the first week I bought the car and it's got 24,000kms on it & I listen to the stereo with the sub on enough I guess but not always I just have a switch to turn the sub amp on/off when wanted. I can't see most dealer's saying anything about it especially since you sound like you may have gotten a malfunctioning alt. right from the factory just took that bit of strain from the amp to trigger it off.
I'd say just leave it the way it is for now if it happens again then I'd probably get the altenator rebuilt & beefed up a bit, this way it'll be able to handle the extra strain you put on it. I'm sure it's only a matter of time until mine goes, just last week I cranked it up on some really low bass song on Shade45 xm radio (not even a couple or Song off USB stick) anyways all of a sudden 10 seconds into the bass went dead. So thought the worst of course either I just blew the amp but no fried smell same with sub and my amp is has built in voltage regulator no fuses so I was worried, ended up popping the 80amp in line fuse so put new one in so good so far!
 

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I've got an amp that's presently running at 1ohm putting out 2000watts rms 4000watts peak & never had an issue with my battery or alternator, even had a Japanese Audio 1000watts amp before that installed it within the first week I bought the car and it's got 24,000kms on it & I listen to the stereo with the sub on enough I guess but not always I just have a switch to turn the sub amp on/off when wanted. I can't see most dealer's saying anything about it especially since you sound like you may have gotten a malfunctioning alt. right from the factory just took that bit of strain from the amp to trigger it off.
I'd say just leave it the way it is for now if it happens again then I'd probably get the altenator rebuilt & beefed up a bit, this way it'll be able to handle the extra strain you put on it. I'm sure it's only a matter of time until mine goes, just last week I cranked it up on some really low bass song on Shade45 xm radio (not even a couple or Song off USB stick) anyways all of a sudden 10 seconds into the bass went dead. So thought the worst of course either I just blew the amp but no fried smell same with sub and my amp is has built in voltage regulator no fuses so I was worried, ended up popping the 80amp in line fuse so put new one in so good so far!
Now that does not add up, only 80amps for fuse? It must be some brand that does not do rated for example boss or any other chinese knock offs.
 
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