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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!
I've been running this setup for a few weeks now with no problems and thought I'd share with some results:

Pros:
Intake note definietly changes to a low rumble around 1900-2250 RPM, I like it.
The engine is much more responsive than before since there isn't any baffling of throttling of the intake airflow
Its cheap! and more cost effective than replacing the stock airfilter
You can easily swap it out and put the stock one back on for service in case you're worried about the warranty of the drivetrain.

Cons:
...ummmm... I'm drawing a blank here...

Bill of Materials:
Adapter: $0.89
NIBCO | 2 In. ABS Coupling All Hub | Home Depot Canada

Air Filter: $38.99
K&N RU-1460 - Universal Air Filters, Universal Rubber Filter

Tools required:
#2 Phillips screw driver

Not that this requires a great deal of instructions, but here it goes!

Step 1:
Attach both above mentioned components together.

Step 2:
Remove Stock air filter cover. There should be only two metal spring clips to disengage the top portion from the bottom, and loosen the Phillips screw on the left that clamps the hose in place. (I can take a picture if its required, but I think this is straight forward...) (Don't forget to remove the filter...)

Step 3:
Attach assembly from Step 1 to the intake pipe. Done!

Anyway. please do this at your own discretion. I most likely wont be taking any flack for any damage to your car or engine.

I did this because I couldn't justify spending $36.99 on a replaceable filter from the dealership, or even $10 online. I also couldn't justify spending $150+ on a "nice looking" SRI system. I also did this to see if it would help in my fuel economy, which is difficult to report on when its -20C outside. So I will be sure to provide some feedback in the summer time.

Lastly, I keep forgetting to take a picture of this installed... But I will tonight for sure since I need to top up my RainX ;)

I can definitely see someone expanding on this thread by adding extensions to the standard 2"ABS adapter to create a true CAI for pretty cheap. With my fog light cover removed, its the perfect place to get fresh air into the power plant. It should also keep the temps pretty good too.

Enjoy!
 

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Where is the stock air filter (main) intake located? On my Sportage, it was mounted to the top drivers side of the radiator facing down. I took off the outside baffle, and now it faces right into the air stream from the grille. So, in essence, it is a stock CAI.

Next, I replaced my stock air filter with a K&N filter which now has cold air forced through it from the grille.

It made a big difference! ;)

I don't see how yours is better not using the stock forced fresh air intake, but using an underhood warm air unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here's a quick pictures promised!
I apologize for the filth.. Its winter.

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice write-up. Thank you for sharing.
No probs kev!



Where is the stock air filter (main) intake located? On my Sportage, it was mounted to the top drivers side of the radiator facing down. I took off the outside baffle, and now it faces right into the air stream from the grille. So, in essence, it is a stock CAI.

Next, I replaced my stock air filter with a K&N filter which now has cold air forced through it from the grille.

It made a big difference! ;)

I don't see how yours is better not using the stock forced fresh air intake, but using an underhood warm air unit?
Hi mike. The stock MD intake system doesn't work as you described it although it looks like it does. The intake portion that you're describing right off the top grill is channeled all the way down into an air muffler and silencer and back up again. There is another thread on the forums discussing this so I didn't want yo be redundant... But I can post a link if more info is required.

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Mike,
@ Bianco had a good thread RE:Intake and what it looks like. He essentially did what I did above + an extension to make it a CAI, his images are best to understand how the baffling system works.

Link to Biancos intake thread

I do agree that the stock system is similar to a CAI in that it brings outside air into the engine, but unfortunately the muffler in the intake really does contribute to slowing down the air flow, which reduces the response time of the engine.

I also understand and know that a proper ECU remap is the only way of optimising this type of set up, but I'm not really looking for additional power here with this set up. Others may opt to do the dyno/ECU re-mapping... but this baby is my daily driver, and I'm thrilled with the outcome of this change.
 

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Simplistic enough! Both in application and ease. Sure wouldn't be difficult to fool the dealer if you had to on short notice. They would be none the wiser. Nice job!

It's a good thing I know your history and "how you roll," when it comes to taking care of your ride. Otherwise, the pic displaying dirt in the vicinity would have given me heart palpitations.
 

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Simplistic enough! Both in application and ease. Sure wouldn't be difficult to fool the dealer if you had to on short notice. They would be none the wiser. Nice job!

It's a good thing I know your history and "how you roll," when it comes to taking care of your ride. Otherwise, the pic displaying dirt in the vicinity would have given me heart palpitations.
Thanks rich. Glad to see you understand my intent ;)

The cleanliness... Geese, it drives me nuts.... No pun
Went for a car wash 1.5 weeks ago and the exterior almost looks like how it did before already...

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Hahaha. Nice one!

Isn't every sri an warm air intake?

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lol, yeah I think so....believe the only way to actually get cold (ambient) air is to hook up a vacuum cleaner hose and push it out through the front of the grill with a scoop inserted in the front. Very stylish to say the least - done right and it might be reminiscent of an Edsel.
 

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Okay, What you need to do now, is reset your ECM to add the extra fuel you need to match the new extra airflow. It's only then that you will get the full benefits of the SAI. This will really wake up your engine, it should surprise you with the extra power.

First of all, your engine needs to be fully warmed up, and in (closed loop learning mode). Then remove your Neg. & Pos. battery cables, and touch them together (for a minute or so), to get rid of any residual charge, then put them back on, Neg. then Pos. Start it up, and let it idle for a couple minutes, then take it out, and drive it like you stole it. You should notice the increase in power, & sound, all through the range immediately
 

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Okay, What you need to do now, is reset your ECM to add the extra fuel you need to match the new extra airflow. It's only then that you will get the full benefits of the SAI. This will really wake up your engine, it should surprise you with the extra power.

First of all, your engine needs to be fully warmed up, and in (closed loop learning mode). Then remove your Neg. & Pos. battery cables, and touch them together (for a minute or so), to get rid of any residual charge, then put them back on, Neg. then Pos. Start it up, and let it idle for a couple minutes, then take it out, and drive it like you stole it. You should notice the increase in power, & sound, all through the range immediately
You're joking right?
This sounds too simple!!! You kind of have me excited about the prospects.

Although I'm sure if I do this it'll kill my fuel economy and potentially put the engine lifetime into question...

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You're joking right?
This sounds too simple!!! You kind of have me excited about the prospects.

Although I'm sure if I do this it'll kill my fuel economy and potentially put the engine lifetime into question...

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If you're seeing an improvement in your fuel economy now, then you're running too lean. Been there, Done that! (It's a long story though).

Yes, you will lose a couple mpg, but it will be worth it! ;)
Besides, running a bit on the rich side is safer for your engine.
 

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Good write up boydrone why don't you remove the air box as well, I bought my car and ordered a K&N drop in but didn't give me that little growl I wanted. I took the Setup from my Saturn that I sold I removed a few part's first & I lucked out I just had to remove a section of the chrome piping (clean up the edges nice & smooth) bout a silicone/rubber adapter from a local car shop to clamp to the throttle body and a new K&N cone filter & ran it right to the factory location putting the tip of the filter right where the air comes in from the tunes in the fender well. Of course I know this isn't a cai as people point out its a wai but it gave me a little better response and a nice grumbling sound which sounds cool on my standard.
 

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Just a little thing I found the other day about the E is due to the designer's focused on fuel economy over powerhouse machine. Lol Anyways I'm always tinkering with the car when I'm bored so I hooked up my obd2 data reader & went for a drive to watch a few thing's as I drove it didn't take me long to notice something I found interesting, I had the reader set on the throttle response & position of throttle and when I put it to the floor it actually only goes to 90% little less not wide open. I read on here some others noticed this I just can't find it now, that would make a big difference all the way through the gears if it'd actually hit wide open throttle. I just wonder if there's a way to correct this even at the dealer with a look at the software I wonder if they could change it to actually go wide open. Anyone read this before, if so could you enlighten me on what was discussed as to fixing this issue if it was discussed. Thanks
 

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I did this to my GT. Been running it since 155kms on the ODO.
Have over 4000km's now and have had No CEL's, No Codes thrown, Not a word from the dealership service department. Love the sound, and cant imagine driving the car without it. As for improvements? i've noticed slightly improved throttle response and and less downshifting when hill-climbing in full auto mode. Not bad for $40

Just a little thing I found the other day about the E is due to the designer's focused on fuel economy over powerhouse machine. Lol Anyways I'm always tinkering with the car when I'm bored so I hooked up my obd2 data reader & went for a drive to watch a few thing's as I drove it didn't take me long to notice something I found interesting, I had the reader set on the throttle response & position of throttle and when I put it to the floor it actually only goes to 90% little less not wide open. I read on here some others noticed this I just can't find it now, that would make a big difference all the way through the gears if it'd actually hit wide open throttle. I just wonder if there's a way to correct this even at the dealer with a look at the software I wonder if they could change it to actually go wide open. Anyone read this before, if so could you enlighten me on what was discussed as to fixing this issue if it was discussed. Thanks
I aswell monitor my GT with an OBD2 reader (Torque Pro with Hyundai Advanced parameters add on and Dashcommand) and have also noticed that it never goes over 90%throttle @ WOT.
 

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Good write up boydrone why don't you remove the air box as well, I bought my car and ordered a K&N drop in but didn't give me that little growl I wanted. I took the Setup from my Saturn that I sold I removed a few part's first & I lucked out I just had to remove a section of the chrome piping (clean up the edges nice & smooth) bout a silicone/rubber adapter from a local car shop to clamp to the throttle body and a new K&N cone filter & ran it right to the factory location putting the tip of the filter right where the air comes in from the tunes in the fender well. Of course I know this isn't a cai as people point out its a wai but it gave me a little better response and a nice grumbling sound which sounds cool on my standard.
Here's a pic of "new2013" intake setup....
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Good write up boydrone why don't you remove the air box as well.
thanks new2013! i tried to keep it short and sweet.

Honestly. two reasons:
1) its effin cold out!!! :)
2) in case i wanted to revert to stock, i wanted to leave it as is for awhile

If you're seeing an improvement in your fuel economy now, then you're running too lean. Been there, Done that! (It's a long story though).

Yes, you will lose a couple mpg, but it will be worth it! ;)
Besides, running a bit on the rich side is safer for your engine.
This might be the beginning of something beautiful! :) ahhaa

I did this to my GT. Been running it since 155kms on the ODO.
Have over 4000km's now and have had No CEL's, No Codes thrown, Not a word from the dealership service department. Love the sound, and cant imagine driving the car without it. As for improvements? i've noticed slightly improved throttle response and and less downshifting when hill-climbing in full auto mode. Not bad for $40 [/IMG]

I aswell monitor my GT with an OBD2 reader (Torque Pro with Hyundai Advanced parameters add on and Dashcommand) and have also noticed that it never goes over 90%throttle @ WOT.
Looks good altostratus! Which filter part number are you using?
I tried the cone type as well but had to return it since it hit the hood.... :( wanted more intake area.

its good to hear you've been running it for almost 4k now with no problems, as well as no question from the service team. although, I'm sure they've made a note in their system about it... its like visiting the doctors office. I recall a seinfield episode when elaine stole her own file. lol

it seems as though most of us are running torquepro with the OBD2 connector. I bought the $12 bluetooth adapter from dx.com
I plan on taking some more refined data soon.

one thing i found interesting was the RPM vs. Velocity comparison. I plan on posting something in the what happened today thread for all to see.

basically:
2500rpm @ 228 km/hr translates too: 658 rpm/km
2250rpm @ 119 km/hr translates too: 1134 rpm/km
1500rpm @ 79 km/hr translates too: 1139 rpm/km

this is kind of strange though since the on board computer brings the fuel mileage down when i'm driving ~105km/hour for a long ride. but the above #'s are telling me to drive faster at cruising????

mind you this doesnt take into account wind, winter tires, etc., just rough numbers when driving on flat.
 
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