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My first oil change at 3,750 miles used the OEM Hyindai/Kia filter plus QuakerState Ultimate Synthetic as it was on a good promo.

Coming up on the 7500 mark but QS doesn't have a promo.

Any recommendations on a good synthetic oil you may have used that you noticed that the elantra runs well on or better than with QS?
 

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Your going to get so many different answers, you'll leave more confused......lol


BTW, I picked up the same QS Ultimate this past weekend at Walmart for $19/5 quart jug.
 

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Saw a Castrol motor oil commercial with a new 5 quart bottle, claim you don't have to use a funnel anymore, but both Castrol and Mobile oil advertise a lot so far more expensive, Still API grade SN, always use a clean funnel.

Use to be Quaker State and Pennzoil, independent companies, but Shell purchased them, see both a Quaker State and a Shell label on my engine cover, are they all the same?

GM came up with dexos, list over 200 different brands of oil that meets their specification, but only Mobile is paying the license fee to print that dexos label on their bottle.

More confusion exists with Hyundai, should change at 3750 for severe driving as defined in the owners manual, but 7499.9 if not, what if you are driving 10% severe, like in town and 90% on a clean highway?

Full synthetic oils use to be very expensive, but now only a couple of bucks more for a five quart bottle compared to conventional oils.

I just stick with Quaker State Ultimate and Hyundai oil filters, seems this is what Hyundai likes and don't want any disputes with that ten year warranty. Did buy a couple of bottles with 5 bucks off, but what is five bucks today, can't even buy a hamburger for this kind of money.

Ha, Mobil Oil is advertising either 20,000 miles or only change once per year regardless of mileage, but on the super small print on the back of the bottle, state to follow your vehicles recommendations to maintain your warranty.
 

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I wouldn't worry about it use whatever is on sale and is 5W-20. Using synthetics is a good idea too but not a must if running the normal maintenance schedule. I don't use synthetics because I have to change every 3750 miles (6000 KM) if I want to keep my warranty because I unfortunately fall under the severe maintenance schedule.
 

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Only changed mine once so far. Used Quaker State conventional 5W20 at 5K miles.
 

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Running syn oil for only 3750 miles is a waste. Just use conventional for a short OCI like that.
Price of oil after rebate is about the price of conventional? Could you go longer on synthetic? Will warranty allow that? No. :wink:

I will be switching to conventional next oil change since that is what I need to use up in the garage. Synthetic oil will probably keep ring packs cleaner and is my first choice. That was the recommended first defense against creating an oil burning car like I had. There are advantages to synthetic oil in heat and cold extremes.
 

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I would personally recommend Pennzoil Pure Platinum (or Platinum Ultra). It is currently on promo and, assuming you are happy with the Quaker State, should be very similar since they are both Shell products.

I try to purchase my oil when they are on sale or promo, so have zero loyalty. I currently have over 40 quarts of oil from Quaker State, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, and Mobil 1. All of it cost less than $3/quart. My wife's car has direct injection so I prefer synthetic, even with shorter oil change intervals.

Same with filters. 4 Hyundai/Kia, 7 Fram Ultra, 4 Pureolator Boss, and 2 Mobil 1. Average cost of filters is about $5. While the aftermarket filters are intended for extended oil changes, I am purchasing them for the improved build quality that comes with the more premium filters.
 

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I use the oil recommended by Hyundai and the stock Hyundai/Kia oil filter:



I put less mileage on my car than I do on my bicycle so I only change oil every 6 months.
 

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Local Walfarts around here have clearanced jugs of Pennzoil/Castrol full synthetic. Picked up some clearance RoyalPurple and Rotella too, all full synthetic.

What Hyundai recommends is meaningless to me and marketing bull. Sad that some think it means something.

If its full synthetic, current enough spec, one of the correct grades recommended even though I avoid 20 grades and stick with 30 grades, and on sale/rebate/clearance somewhere, then it is what I'll use.

Hyundai has too many engineering issues to trust their interval/brand/grade/type... recommendations. Get a clue!
 

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Local Walfarts around here have clearanced jugs of Pennzoil/Castrol full synthetic. Picked up some clearance RoyalPurple and Rotella too, all full synthetic.

What Hyundai recommends is meaningless to me and marketing bull. Sad that some think it means something.

If its full synthetic, current enough spec, one of the correct grades recommended even though I avoid 20 grades and stick with 30 grades, and on sale/rebate/clearance somewhere, then it is what I'll use.

Hyundai has too many engineering issues to trust their interval/brand/grade/type... recommendations. Get a clue!
I figured sticking with the recommended might make a difference just in case I need to use my warranty down the road... All I need to show are receipts of the filter and oil purchases. Besides most synthetics costs about the same around these neck of the woods.
 

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I figured sticking with the recommended might make a difference just in case I need to use my warranty down the road... All I need to show are receipts of the filter and oil purchases. Besides most synthetics costs about the same around these neck of the woods.
It is a little misleading. Hyundai has a partnership with Shell.

Shell, Hyundai Renew Partnership

Any oil that meets the spec in the owner's manual should protect your warranty. My dealership uses Valvoline.

Quaker State is a good oil and should treat you well.
 

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Owners Manual recommends Quaker State, API SM*4 & ILSAC GF-4 (or above) ACEA A5*3 (or above).

SM is a full synthetic oil anything less than this would be a blend or even worse, a conventional oil. Or above, SN is currently the best and this is what I use. Only talking a few cents, and if telling a person to use less, may void your warranty.

Call this being penny wise and pound foolish. Blends contain a mixture of synthetic and conventional oils, the latter absorbs moisture creating sludge, synthetics do not do this.

But its your vehicle, do whatever you want to, but be prepared to suffer the consequences.
 

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on my 13 I have used synthetic since it was new at 5000 mile OCI with whatever is on sale and has a rebate. I have a small stash (2-3 oil changes )of oil from Mobil 1, QSUD, and PP purchases on sale and with rebates and also OEM filters purchased online from a Hyundai dealer; Now the 13 is a different engine than the 18 but I doubt it would change my procedure if I had an 18
 

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Absorbs moisture? All base oil types have moisture and will sludge with too much water content. Conventionals do better than synthetics because they have more solvency that hasn't been refined or formula'd out of it. The oil change interval more than makes up for any moisture problems and why there is a severe service interval. The PCV system works pretty good too.

Synthetic is not required. And, I'd recommend it for turbos due to increased engine load/heat. Conventional works fine as long as interval isn't too long and oil level is full. Synthetics are for those of us that hand cars down to younger family members... kids, nephews, grandkids.... and want to keep it running forever, and not just during the lease/loan life.

Recommends QuakerState.... doesn't require QS just like it doesn't require synthetic. I don't even see Hyundai recommending synthetic.

Recommends 5w20 for best MPG.... 5w30 and 10w30 are in the owners manual too for those of us willing to sacrifice 1/10 of an MPG for better engine protection.

Recommends SM/GF4 or ACEA A5, but if not available use GF3 or A3... or higher. Unlike ILSAC, where newer is higher, ACEA doesn't have "higher" as it has specifics for engine types and 'years' when a spec is updated. So, their communications/English/LiberalArts majors did a horrible job translating engineering speak to the owners manual. When it comes to being green, or catering to the marketing/advertising crowd, those same so-called tech-writers usually do really good.

I wouldn't even consider GF3 or GF4 oils. GF5 is current and Dexos is the cream of the crop.

ACEA A3 are the high HTHS(even worse MPG) oils that protect even better than A5 or SM/GF4... funny that they recommend it as a downgrade to ACEA A5. I guess it might be a 1/10 mpg downgrade. What is their goal? engine protection or strictly MPG? The list of ACEA A3 oils are all excellent.

Straight out of your owners manual:

SEVERE DRIVING CONDITIONS

Maintenance
A-Repeatedly driving short distances of less than 5 miles
(8 km) in normal temperature or less than 10 miles (16 km)
in freezing temperature
B-Extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances
C-Driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or saltspread
roads
D-Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in
very cold weather
E-Driving in sandy areas
F - Driving in heavy traffic area over 90°F (32°C)
G- Driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain road
H- Towing a Trailer, or using a camper, or roof rack
I -Driving as a patrol car, taxi, other commercial use or vehicle
towing
J - Driving over 106 mph (170 km/h)
K- Frequently driving in stop-and-go conditions


When you stop for fuel:
• Check the engine oil level.
• Check coolant level in the engine
coolant reservoir.
• Check the windshield washer fluid
level.
• Check for low or under-inflated
tires


At least monthly:
• Check coolant level in the engine
coolant reservoir.
• Check the operation of all exterior
lights, including the brake lights,
turn signals and hazard warning
flashers.
• Check the inflation pressures of all
tires including the spare for tires
that are worn, show uneven wear,
or are damaged.
• Check for loose wheel lug nuts


While operating your vehicle:
• Note any changes in the sound of
the exhaust or any smell of
exhaust fumes in the vehicle.
• Check for vibrations in the steering
wheel. Notice if there is any
increased steering effort or looseness
in the steering wheel, or
change in its straight-ahead position.
• Notice if your vehicle constantly
turns slightly or "pulls" to one side
when traveling on smooth, level
road.
• When stopping, listen and check
for unusual sounds, pulling to one
side, increased brake pedal travel
or "hard-to-push" brake pedal.
• If any slipping or changes in the
operation of your transmission
occurs, check the transmission
fluid level.
• Check the automatic transmission/
ecoshift dual clutch transmission P
(Park) function.
• Check the parking brake.
• Check for fluid leaks under your
vehicle (water dripping from the air
conditioning system during or after
use is normal).


They must be serious because they mention severe service requirements twice in the owners manual:

You must follow the Maintenance Under Severe
Usage Conditions
:
• Repeated short distance driving.
• Driving in dusty conditions or
sandy areas.
• Extensive use of brakes.
• Driving in areas where salt or other
corrosive materials are used.
• Driving on rough or muddy roads.
• Driving in mountainous areas.
• Extended periods of idling or low
speed operation.
• Driving for a prolonged period in
cold temperatures and/or extremely
humid climates.
• More than 50% driving in heavy
city traffic during hot weather
above 90°F (32°C).


I am sure that everybody has read their entire owners manual and has the above list covered as required.

Normal service:
7,500 miles (12,000 km) or 6 months
Severe service:
Every 3,750 miles (6,000 km) or 6 months


And remember, its time or mileage whichever comes 1st. So, EVERYBODY has at least 2 oil changes a year regardless if they drive their car much or not.

And why so many consumers pay extra for dealer marked up inspections that they should do at every service but usually do nothing but checking off paperwork which is quicker:

At least twice a year:
(i.e., every Spring and Fall)
• Check radiator, heater and air conditioning
hoses for leaks or damage.
• Check windshield washer spray
and wiper operation. Clean wiper
blades with clean cloth dampened
with washer fluid.
• Check headlamp alignment.
• Check muffler, exhaust pipes,
shields and clamps.
• Check the seat belts for wear and
function.
At least once a year:
• Clean body and door drain holes.
• Lubricate door hinges and hood
hinges.
• Lubricate door and hood locks and
latches.
• Lubricate door rubber weather
strips.
• Lubricate door checker.
• Check the air conditioning system.
• Inspect and lubricate automatic
transmission linkage and controls.
• Clean the battery and terminals.
• Check the brake fluid level.


If you check something and it has an issue, you address it immediately. I know many that check something, ignore it, and then complain when a failure occurs.
 

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I use the oil recommended by Hyundai and the stock Hyundai/Kia oil filter:



I put less mileage on my car than I do on my bicycle so I only change oil every 6 months.
Quaker State is a great "bang for the buck" oil. As good as any other top level oil but usually cost a few bucks less. That combo of oil and filter is what is in my wife's Kia right now.
 

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Most vehicle manufacturers have an arrangement with an oil company and that is not a problem as the vehicle owner can choose any brand they wish to use in their vehicle on the understanding that the correct oil specifications as laid down by the vehicle manufacturer is followed.

I continue to be amazed by comments along the lines that Hyundai oil specifications and grades are not correct and should not be trusted.

If Hyundai oil recommendations are bullshit, then who do you believe?

Does one then consult the internet and trust/believe the information from unqualified persons and hope like **** the internet experts will cover your warranty.
 
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