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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a DIY kinda guy, so I wanted find the oil filter on my 2.4L. What a discovery. There is a plastic cover over the entire undercarriage with what appears to be 2 flaps. One says oil filter but I couldn't see the 2nd one further back. I would have to jack up the SF to access these flaps. Any one done an oil change yet?
 

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1.
Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
2.
Drain engine oil.
(1)
Remove the oil filler cap.
(2)
After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug hole cover.
(3)
Remove the oil drain plug and drain oil into a container.
3.
Remove the oil filter(A) with the SST(09263-2E000, the oil filter wrench).
(1)
Remove the oil filter.
(2)
Check and clean the oil filter installation surface.
(3)
Check the part number of the new oil filter is as same as old one.
(4)
Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter.
(5)
Lightly screw the oil filter into place, and tighten it until the gasket contacts the seat.
(6)
Tighten it with the torque below.
Tightening torque :
11.8 ~ 15.7 N.m (1.2 ~ 1.6 kgf.m, 8.7 ~ 11.6 lb-ft)
4.
Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
Tightening torque :
34.3 ~ 44.1 N.m (3.5 ~ 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
5.
Fill with new engine oil, after removing the engine oil level gauge.
Capacity
Total
5.5 L (1.45 U.S.gal., 5.81 U.S.qt., 4.84 lmp.qt.)
Oil pan
4.2 L (1.11 U.S.gal., 4.44 U.S.qt., 3.70 lmp.qt.)
Drain and refill including oil filter
4.6 L (1.22 U.S.gal., 4.86 U.S.qt., 4.05 lmp.qt.)
6.
Install the oil filler cap.
7.
Start engine and check for oil leaks and check the oil gauge or light for an indication of oil pressure.
8.
Recheck the engine oil level.
Oil and filter replacement


Prolonged and repeated contact with mineral oil will result in the removal of natural fats from the skin, leading to dryness, irritation and dermatitis. In addition, used engine oil contains potentially harmful contaminants which may cause skin cancer.

Exercise caution in order to minimize the length and frequency of contact of your skin to used oil. Wear protective clothing and gloves. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water, or use water-less hand cleaner, to remove any used engine oil. Do not use gasoline, thinners, or solvents.

In order to preserve the environment, used oil and used oil filter must be disposed of only at designated disposal sites.
1.
Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
2.
Drain engine oil.
(1)
Remove the oil filler cap.
(2)
After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug hole cover.
(3)
Remove the oil drain plug and drain oil into a container.
3.
Remove the oil filter(A) with the SST(09263-2E000, the oil filter wrench).
(1)
Remove the oil filter.
(2)
Check and clean the oil filter installation surface.
(3)
Check the part number of the new oil filter is as same as old one.
(4)
Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter.
(5)
Lightly screw the oil filter into place, and tighten it until the gasket contacts the seat.
(6)
Tighten it with the torque below.
Tightening torque :
11.8 ~ 15.7 N.m (1.2 ~ 1.6 kgf.m, 8.7 ~ 11.6 lb-ft)
4.
Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
Tightening torque :
34.3 ~ 44.1 N.m (3.5 ~ 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
5.
Fill with new engine oil, after removing the engine oil level gauge.
Capacity
Total
6.1 L (1.61 U.S.gal., 6.44 U.S.qt., 5.36 lmp.qt.)
Oil pan
4.6 L (1.21 U.S.gal., 4.86 U.S.qt., 4.04 lmp.qt.)
Drain and refill including oil filter
5.0 L (1.32 U.S.gal., 5.28 U.S.qt., 4.39 lmp.qt.)
6.
Install the oil filler cap.
7.
Start engine and check for oil leaks and check the oil gauge or light for an indication of oil pressure.
8.
Recheck the engine oil level.
Inspection
1.
Check the engine oil quality.
Check the oil deterioration, entry of water, discoloring of thinning. If the quality is visibly poor, replace the oil.
2.
Check the engine oil level.
After engine warm up stop the engine wait 5 minutes then check the oil level. Oil level should be between the "L" and "F" marks on the dipstick. If low check for leakage and add oil up to the "F" mark.

Do not fill with engine oil above the "F" mark.
Selection Of Engine Oil
Recommendation :
5W-20 / API SM, ILSAC GF4
(If not available, refer to the recommended API or ILSAC classification
API classification: SL, SM or above
ILSAC classification : GF3, GF4 or above
ACEA classification : A3, A5 or above
SAE viscosity grade : Refer to the recommended SAE viscosity number
 

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I have,not a big deal,did have to go get a special socket to loosen oil filter though thru the opening,cost about $8 at Sears.Was able to do all work without raising vehicle.
 

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I did my first oil and filter change. The two plastic covers for filter access and drain plug access unsnap from the belly pan. Removing the oil filter is messy (I used a latex hospital glove to avoid most of the mess. Also, as mentioned above--the oil filter is large and I had to use my adjustable wrench to turn and remove it. Like this Craftsman Universal Wrench, Auto-Adjustable: Save Time With Sears

BTW...the stock Hyundai filter uses am 80mm/15 flat cap type wrench.

The drain plug is easily removed/replaced. All in all it is an easy vehicle to change the oil/filter. I was able to access everything by laying on the garage floor and jacking up the right front side of the SF on the body jack point.
 

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I've always used these on my vehicles:

QuickOilDrainValve.com

It's basically a spigot that drains cleanly into the pan - none of that initial burst of oil when the plug comes off. Set the pan, open valve, walk away. Come back a few minutes later, close and refill.
 
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The underbody tray comes off very easily with just a handful of bolts and gives you so much more room and ease of access. I've done two oil changes to our SF so far. First time I didn't remove the cover right away, second time I learned and just took it off first thing. So much better. No special tools or oil filter ratchets are required.
 

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Normandelli,thanks alot going to order myself one of these since I do my own oil changes on 2 vehicles,one question,has the valve ever become hard to work from the elements ? ie dirt,snow,salt
 

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I don't want to throw a cold blanket on this discussion and I have changed a lot of oil in my day. But for $25 for the oil change and filter down at my local Hyundai dealer I don't bother anymore. He takes care of the oil and filter and all of that aggravation.

Just my $0.02 today.
 

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The SFS will be the fourth vehicle that I've installed this valve on - not once did it stick. It predictably opens and closes with just finger pressure, not much force.

In case anybody's wondering, the handle actually slides into a countersink to prevent accidental opening. You need to lift it out of there, then twist to open the valve.

Normandelli,thanks alot going to order myself one of these since I do my own oil changes on 2 vehicles,one question,has the valve ever become hard to work from the elements ? ie dirt,snow,salt
 
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unclemuskie...

What color is Mineral Gay? Is sounds FABULOUS! :wink2:

You got a little typo there in your car description. :laughing:
 

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I don't want to throw a cold blanket on this discussion and I have changed a lot of oil in my day. But for $25 for the oil change and filter down at my local Hyundai dealer I don't bother anymore. He takes care of the oil and filter and all of that aggravation.

Just my $0.02 today.
That's cool. I actually like changing the oil myself, and knowing what I'm putting in the engine. Some places just have a big drum of "oil" that they use for everything, specs be damned. Quick Lube places especially are horrible about that.
 

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I don't want to throw a cold blanket on this discussion and I have changed a lot of oil in my day. But for $25 for the oil change and filter down at my local Hyundai dealer I don't bother anymore. He takes care of the oil and filter and all of that aggravation.

Just my $0.02 today.
+1
But after seeing the "quick drain valve", I almost want to go back to doing it myself just to use the valve and tubing. That is cool. :cool:
John
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do U remember what size QuickOilDrainValve U installed?
Thanks everyone for all the info and yes I could get a oil change 4 cheap but I enjoy DIY.
 

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I've always used these on my vehicles:

QuickOilDrainValve.com

It's basically a spigot that drains cleanly into the pan - none of that initial burst of oil when the plug comes off. Set the pan, open valve, walk away. Come back a few minutes later, close and refill.
This is GREAT!!!
Does it reduce the ground clearance? In other words, does it extend below the oil pan?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I might have reservation about using this Quick drain plug on other cars but the SF has a plastic shield covering the plug area thus protecting it. I want one.
 

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I got the F106S. The only difference this has with the F106 is that the "S" has a very short extension on which you can attach a hose. Either one will work.

Do U remember what size QuickOilDrainValve U installed?
Thanks everyone for all the info and yes I could get a oil change 4 cheap but I enjoy DIY.
 

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It's about twice the height of the OEM drain plug but barely sticks out any more than the drain plug does.

I've had this on three other vehicles, two of which were Hyundais. Never had problems with ground clearance or opening/closing.

This is GREAT!!!
Does it reduce the ground clearance? In other words, does it extend below the oil pan?
 

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I note that you can also purchase a small security clip for added protection against accidental movement of the on/off lever.
 
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