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Turbofan,

I'm going to be changing out the front turn signal for LED's and then the rears.

Question on the install of the 6 ohm resistors. (seems like the relay solution isn't viable?)

For the front, does the wire from the resistor install inline to one of the wires going to or from the socket base?

Basically, why did you drill and soder the wire to the base as opposed to doing it on the wire outside the base.

I ask because it looks like that's what you did for the rear assembly?

Let me know.

Thanks!

Brian
 

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I got it figured out.

This diagram helped, just needed to ensure this was in parallel vs in series.



And the resistor I purchased actually has a red wire going into the resistor and black one coming out. Very nice.

Rear turn signals are 1156 correct?
 

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Starting with the 2013 SFS, Hyundai designed a PCB in place of the Flasher relay. Thus, it is not possible to "swap" out the analog relay for a digital one to circumvent the hyper flashing problem when one replaces the turn signals with LED bulbs. Now if someone can figure out how to program the PCB or hack into the onboard computer to adjust the turn signal timing, then we are home free!
 

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Okay, this could be a stupid question, but for the front turn signals, since the bulb was a 1157, two fillament, I assumed that the it used the one of the fillaments for the "running" lights.

But looking at the wiring diagram, only a positive and negative going to the socket assembly, thus even-though it's a 1157, it's only using it for the turn signal, correct?

I know I've looked at the front of my SFS at night and "seen" amber running lights, but now I think I was only noticing the amber running lights that are on the sides.

Therefore, to put the resistors on I need to tap off the main plug that houses all the wires for the high, low, turn, and LED.

Otherwise perform the steps that Turbofan did.

Correct?
 

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Well, I "tried" to install the resistors today.

Didn't work out.

I followed the pin array diagram posted by vit in the beginning of the thread.

Santa Fe DM Headlight Pin Diagram

Unless that pin array has changed since that post for the 2016 SFS, that doesn't quite work.

Following the pin array, it shows that the turn signal +/- is on the outside of the pin array (to the left), top + bottom - (that's for driver's, it's opposite orientation for passenger)

So I set up the resistors in parallel to those wires.

Weeeelll, the turn signals blinked normal so long as the running/head lights weren't on (daylight conditions), however, when headlights or running lights applied, the turn signal stayed lit (all LED's lit). And wouldn't blink when you put the turn signal on.

So something isn't right.

Now for most of the pin array the "black" wires for the plug are on the bottom, except for the bottom outside pin. It's green on the drivers side and white on the passenger side.

Actually the top bottom for those outside pins is green/yellow for driver, white/white for passenger.

My thought, the last 4 pins on the outside are for the LED eyebrow and turn signal. The inner pins are the low beams and next to it is the high beam/DRL.

The turn signal IS a 1157 bulb AND there is two contacts to the socket for +.

Even-though the SFS doesn't "use" one of the contacts for "running" lights in the socket, I think the 4 outside pins (LES and Turn) share the same ground and other 3 wires are ALL +. Especially the outside top/bottom pin.

I think one of them is + for running light and the other is + turn signal.

That's my guess as to why with the resistor in place it hyperflash was gone with headlights off, it was at least looping the current even-though it was going to both + wires. Once the running lights came on the resistor bridge the constant to the blinking wire.

I'll have to test the array with a multi-meter to see which one has a current drop from 12 to 0, 12 to 0, to determine the correct wire.

Then if my ASSUMPTION is correct, I'll need to join the resistor to the black wire that's next to the outside top/bottom pins, which in the link above is described as the LED -

My fault for following the pin array diagram and trusting it.

Unless I am missing something?
 

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Well, I put the multi-meter up to the pin array plug today.

It wasn't what I had hoped for.

The connector plug looks to be only to be an interface for power to the headlamp cluster.

I surmise (can anyone confirm) that inside the headlight cluster there must be a module that controls the pulsing for the turn signal?

None of the wires in the pin array had that "on/off" pulsating effect when the turn signal was on.

Either always on or always off, and pretty much when you started the car all the + wires were hot except for one, and it powered up when the running lights came on.

I did confirm that the two wires I tapped into were indeed both + wires. The bottom outside wire was hot, it wasn't a ground.


If anyone has had success installing the resistors off these wires, let me know.

Otherwise, Turbofan's method is the best one, unless someone makes a socket that has a resistor already installed to it? (someone earlier in the thread mentioned something like that, I will verify).
 

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Well, I put the multi-meter up to the pin array plug today.

It wasn't what I had hoped for.

The connector plug looks to be only to be an interface for power to the headlamp cluster.

I surmise (can anyone confirm) that inside the headlight cluster there must be a module that controls the pulsing for the turn signal?

None of the wires in the pin array had that "on/off" pulsating effect when the turn signal was on.

Either always on or always off, and pretty much when you started the car all the + wires were hot except for one, and it powered up when the running lights came on.

I did confirm that the two wires I tapped into were indeed both + wires. The bottom outside wire was hot, it wasn't a ground.


If anyone has had success installing the resistors off these wires, let me know.

Otherwise, Turbofan's method is the best one, unless someone makes a socket that has a resistor already installed to it? (someone earlier in the thread mentioned something like that, I will verify).
Just wondering... If replacing all 4 turn signal with LEDs can't we just install 2 resistors 50W 3 ohm in the rear? Everything seems to be more accessible there.
 

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Haven't posted in awhile! I'm no longer run the resistor free turn signal bulbs and running these 80W CREE bulbs from K5OptimaStore. I wanted to post a video I had done on my Sanata Fe Sport. I love how much better they look than the factory bulbs!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxUSk1xbVRU

Product found here:
K5 Optima Store - 80 Watt CREE 1156 LED Turn Signal Bulbs
Do these require a resistor to be installed or is it a plug and play replacement? They look really nice. How is the output in direct sunlight? Do you happen to have any videos?
 

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hey Turbofan,

when you installed the resistor into the socket for the front turn signals, did it matter which contacts you soldered the resistor to? do you have any additional pics? I have 2 additional sockets i can use to cut up.

I'm new to the board, btw
 

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Can anyone tell me how to make the front turn signal change on the 2017 mode year with the redesigned headlight assembly? I can’t find how to do it anywhere so came here for help.
 
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