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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is just a reference for anyone looking to do some research on oil changes, capacities, procedures, etc.
Please try and keep the chatter in this thread to only adding new links as they come.
This will be a great link to provide new members as they come.



2.0 TURBO ENGINE OIL CAPACITY?: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/162792-2-0t-oil-capacity.html

FLUID CAPACITIES REFERENCE GUIDE: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/162801-fluid-capacities-pocket-reference-guide.html#post1296363

CAR RUNS CRAPPY AFTER OIL CHANGE!: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/161950-car-runs-crappy-after-first-oil-change.html

MILEAGE BETWEEN OIL CHANGES: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/dm-2013-santa-fe/162284-chatroom-milage-between-oil-change-interval.html

THIS IS MY FIRST TURBO ENGINE: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/160918-my-first-turbo-engine.html

FIRST OIL CHANGE: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/159254-first-oil-change.html

OIL CATCH CAN: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/160280-oil-catch-can-2.html

5W-20 or 5W-30?: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/151794-dealer-uses-wrong-oil.html

How many turbo owners would go 8k miles on synthetic oil: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/158204-how-many-turbo-owners-would-go-8k-miles-synthetic-oil.html


TURBO OIL: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/157338-chatroom-turbo-engine-oil.html

ENGINE OIL: Full Synthetic & related:http://www.hyundai-forums.com/260-dm-2013-santa-fe/162765-engine-oil-full-synthetic-related.html

(i am sure there are probably more, but i think this covers it for now)

MY DIY: OIL CHANGE FOR 2013 SANTA FE:


MY OIL FILTER REVIEW:

WATCH THIS OTHER VIDEO -> IT WARNS OF FAKE HYUNDAI FILTERS!
 

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Hi ImStricken , Nice vid

You reset > The maintenance service oil after your oil change?

3,004km = 1,877.5miles
 

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Nice video.
Question. How much extra work & time would it be to take the cover surrounding the the 2 covers, oil plug and oil filter covers, off? Would this give you better/more access to the bolt and filter for the wrenches?
John

Less than a minute with a 10mm socket on a power tool, only the black bolts (only 6 or 7). Harder on the ground.


Yes it would and may make less of a mess if you accidentally mishandle the oil filter and it rolls around in there. Newer Sonatas have this problem, this vehicle not so much.

(New crush washer everytime)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice video.
Question. How much extra work & time would it be to take the cover surrounding the the 2 covers, oil plug and oil filter covers, off? Would this give you better/more access to the bolt and filter for the wrenches?
John
probably a minute or two. its just a couple screws.
to be honest, i kinda like this cover. its vented, and has easy access to the filter & bolt. but i can see how some oil can build up around the edges(mostly by the filter.)
 

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You should add your oil, then run engine for 20-30 seconds, then verify oil level.. you just took and dump oil in, and called it a day at middle of grid,, did you re-inspect the oil level after running engine to fill oil filter ?
 

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Nice vid, but you might want to leave the plastic caps off til after running the engine to check for any leaks at the drain plug or oil filter. Additionally a Fumoto drain valve once installed makes the oil drain much easier and less messy. IMHO a good investment
 

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Discussion Starter #10
you might want to leave the plastic caps off til after running the engine to check for any leaks at the drain plug or oil filter.
thanks but in this case, i make sure my work is done right the first time, there should be no reason for oil leaks. the only way you will have an oil leak is if:
1) you didnt tighten the drain bolt
2) you you didnt notice that the old oil filter left its gasket on
3. you didnt lube the new gasket, causing binding.
4) you cross-threaded something due to not starting everything off by hand first.

Additionally a Fumoto drain valve once installed makes the oil drain much easier and less messy. IMHO a good investment
Regarding the Fumoto drain valve, as i have expressed in the past, i am vehemently against those (unless it on power equipment/machinery thats at least 3-4 feet off the air and wont drive faster than 35mph.) thats originally where this idea came from.
the risks of that valve getting hit by road debris at 65mph seriously out-way any positives it brings to the oil change process. unbolting 1 bolt, and reinstalling it with a new crush washer isnt that hard of a process to need a "drain valve". its 2 quick, easy steps - its not like the fumoto valves removes 10 long tedious steps...
 

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Regarding the Fumoto drain valve, as i have expressed in the past, i am vehemently against those (unless it on power equipment/machinery thats at least 3-4 feet off the air and wont drive faster than 35mph.) thats originally where this idea came from.
the risks of that valve getting hit by road debris at 65mph seriously out-way any positives it brings to the oil change process.
I`m not familiar with the valve mentioned, but I can picture that possibly happening...

However, in this case, I`m guessing that the design of the SFS 'protective shield' that was shown in your well-done video would make that possibilty 'impossible'....

unless I missed something...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's normal for even the most perfect mechanic to check for leaks, double-checking - and in safety-critical applications then having someone else making additional checks.
you're correct, that any good mechanic will double check his work.

i do that by simply looking under the car after it was ran, and the dipstick was read. since in our case, the splash shield is heavily vented, any leak would be detected on the ground within seconds.

having to crawl under the car is unnecessary, unless you have a bell-pan to contain any fluids, or a large splitter.(certain high performance cars have this feature). since many cars dont even have the splash shield; this isnt something to worry about.
 

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I`m not familiar with the valve mentioned, but I can picture that possibly happening...

However, in this case, I`m guessing that the design of the SFS 'protective shield' that was shown in your well-done video would make that possibilty 'impossible'....

unless I missed something...
from what i recall, you could install that valve on our application, but again; all you are doing is alleviating yourself from unbolting 1 bolt. thats not worth the price of the valve, nor the hidden dangers such valves possess.
 

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from what i recall, you could install that valve on our application, but again; all you are doing is alleviating yourself from unbolting 1 bolt. thats not worth the price of the valve, nor the hidden dangers such valves possess.
Again, I`m not familiar with this valve, but I`m guessing that you only have to install it one time...and then only opening it when the oil needs to be drained...

As opposed to removing a 'hot' bolt every oil change, and taking the chance of 'hot' oil running down the hand and arm if one doesn`t get out of the way fast enough...(that`s me)

Or fishing the hot bolt out of the oil catch pan...

Then, also, of course, there`s no need to re-install a new crush washer and/or bolt when finished...Just close the valve...

If one puts on 90,000 miles,...and changes the oil every 3,000 miles,...they are removing that bolt...(and putting it back on with a new crush washer)...30 times...

That could be worth the price of the valve...

Now that we`ve assertained that the SFS oil pan shield will protect the valve from 'road hazards', I`m concerned about the other "hidden dangers these valves possess" that you mention....

Please tell us (me) about any other concerns before I invest in one...

P.S....If any Forum members have experience with this valve, please feel free to jump in and contribute...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If one puts on 90,000 miles,...and changes the oil every 3,000 miles,...they are removing that bolt...(and putting it back on with a new crush washer)...30 times...
3000 mile oil changes? most people now a days do:
5000 mile changes, and that equals to 18 oil changes in 90000 miles.
7500 mile oil changes = 12

Now that we`ve assertained that the SFS oil pan shield will protect the valve from 'road hazards'
says who? road hazards dent oil pans, blow radiators, and dent exhaust pipes. as i have explained before when we spoke about this topic, i ran over a dead deer in the dark in my work car. had no idea on the damage, until my engine temp went through the roof. - it blew my radiator and dented the oil pan. (ended up warping the cylinder head, and totaling the engine)

Ms.Imstricken ran over a beaver the other day and our muffler has a dent it, equaling at least a quarter of an inch. imagine the force that beavers skull/body had on the metal to dent my muffler? what do you think will happen with your soft plastic shield? it will flex like its designed too- thus possibly manipulating the valve or snapping it.


I`m concerned about the other "hidden dangers these valves possess" that you mention....
there are no other hidden dangers. all the dangers with this valve are fully exposed and clear as day. you are placing a tiny 2mins worth of labor/inconvenience (removing a bolt, replacing crush washer, replacing bolt) with the potential to DESTROY YOUR ENGINE (which wont be covered under warranty because its sized due to lack of oil). if thats a risk you are willing to take, by all means do. to me, installing this thing is the same as having a feeding tube to avoid chewing. yes its convenient, but it places you in grave danger in case you get bumped by someone in a crowd.

at 45mph, a chunk of snow hits like a hammer. a ball at 45mph will have a similar effect. forget animals at highway speeds, etc.

you have to weigh conveniences vs risks. if the risks are higher and costlier than the inconvenience itself, you are playing with fire.
 

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3000 mile oil changes? most people now a days do:
5000 mile changes, and that equals to 18 oil changes in 90000 miles.
7500 mile oil changes = 12

says who? road hazards dent oil pans, blow radiators, and dent exhaust pipes. as i have explained before when we spoke about this topic, i ran over a dead deer in the dark in my work car. had no idea on the damage, until my engine temp went through the roof. - it blew my radiator and dented the oil pan. (ended up warping the cylinder head, and totaling the engine)

Ms.Imstricken ran over a beaver the other day and our muffler has a dent it, equaling at least a quarter of an inch. imagine the force that beavers skull/body had on the metal to dent my muffler? what do you think will happen with your soft plastic shield? it will flex like its designed too- thus possibly manipulating the valve or snapping it.


there are no other hidden dangers. all the dangers with this valve are fully exposed and clear as day. you are placing a tiny 2mins worth of labor/inconvenience (removing a bolt, replacing crush washer, replacing bolt) with the potential to DESTROY YOUR ENGINE (which wont be covered under warranty because its sized due to lack of oil). if thats a risk you are willing to take, by all means do. to me, installing this thing is the same as having a feeding tube to avoid chewing. yes its convenient, but it places you in grave danger in case you get bumped by someone in a crowd.

at 45mph, a chunk of snow hits like a hammer. a ball at 45mph will have a similar effect. forget animals at highway speeds, etc.

you have to weigh conveniences vs risks. if the risks are higher and costlier than the inconvenience itself, you are playing with fire.



Thank you for your thoughts and input...
 

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