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I tried to show most of the how-to's specific to this car, but you still need a basic understanding of wiring and disassembly. If this scares you, take your car to the local Best Buy and have them do the install before you attempt it please.







The goal of my installation was to have a subwoofer and amp setup that was very well integrated into the car, yet easy to get out of the way if I needed the space. The subwoofer box is only held in by its own weight pretty much and is just removed by undoing the speaker leads at the back of it and pulling it out (I went camping this weekend and it worked like a charm). The amp rack houses all of the jack pieces that were in the original shell, a "summing unit", and the two amps I'm running. It can be lifted out for the most part (some wires making it slightly difficult) and the spare can still be accessed below. The left Alpine amp is for the subwoofer and the right one is an Alpine 100x4 that isn't hooked up yet to the interior speakers (I haven't decided on speakers yet). I also sound deadened the entire trunk (totally not necessary except for maybe the trunk lid, but it makes me feel better. rest of the car coming soon-ish) and also put noise dampening foam around the amp rack just because its black and looks better. I'm sorry that I don't have cut dimensions of the box/amp rack or pictures during the build process.


Power Wire & Remote Wire Run

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I used 0 gauge wire because I'm a badass and I like overkill, your power wire size may vary.

:excl: To get everything more accessible at this point you will need to remove two interior panels on the driver’s side. First the sill panel/long running board (says SONATA on mine) is clipped in and pulls straight up. Then the kick panel; 1-The hood handle pops off the kick (pull carefully towards brake/gas pedal) 2-Pop off in the same direction this small panel clip 3- Peel back door weather-stripping 4- Clip in location of arrow needs to be pulled backwards (towards rear of vehicle) and whole kick panel will come free



:excl: Position the ring terminal end of your power wire near the battery. I usually zip tie it in place w/o touching it to the battery terminal for the duration of the install, or you can connect but remove the fuse beforehand (until the end). Also usually plastic loom the power wire, but I'm still waiting on the right size loom (for looks and protection from heat etc)


:excl: If you use smaller gauge wire you may be able to use a wire running tool (or coat hanger) to carefully poke through the pictured grommet, if not you will have to carefully drill a hole near the pictured spot. Ideally you want to use a plastic grommet to protect the wire through the hole you drilled, but I didn't have any the right size.


:excl: This is an inside shot of where I drilled the hole, and where the power wire runs to afterwards


:excl: Now just let the power wire simmer there for a second, we need to get the remote wire. This wire just tells the amp when to turn on. It will be hooked up to an ignition source so the amp turns on with the second click of the key. There are other places you can connect to, but this one is good enough. Again this is on my trim, others may vary.
On my vehicle I went to this larger gauge pink wire and tapped in by side-stripping the wire and wrapping the blue remote wire around and taping it. I then secured it with a zip tie. You can also solder etc etc. I also put a small fuse holder at this point with a 7.5a fuse, so actually the fuse holder is attached to the pink wire in line with the remote wire.


:excl: From here we are running the power wire and remote wire down this channel that the sill panel was covering, when you get to the B pillar (where driver seatbelt is) you can pop that off a little bit (towards center of car) or just try to snake the wires through that pillar. To get off the rear sill panel it’s easiest if you pop up the lower back seat. In the second picture below there is a 12mm bolt on each side in the location of the blue tool, take those out then grab the front bottom of the seat about 8 inches from the edge of it and pull up, there’s a clip in that location on each side, it should then pull out . The rear sill panel should just pop up as well, although there is a clip of some sort under where the seat was.
 
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:excl: Now we have to get from under the rear seat to the trunk area. If you're mounting an amp on the back of the seat or the back of the box, you can just put the rear seats down and sort of push the wire through the space under the top rear seat portion. If you need to get further back in the trunk (like mounting the amp on the sides or spare tire well like I did) it might be cleaner if you drilled a hole in this area and ran the wire through. I believe the hole in the metal was there, but I did have to drill through the plastic on the front side of that. You will have to remove the side trunk carpeted pieces to reach that area, which are secured with round clips that pull out.



Connecting It All?
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:excl: Now, in or around the trunk area we should have:
Our power wire (unfused at the moment or not connected to the battery)
Ground Wire
Remote Wire
RCA Pair

:excl: It should be fairly obvious on your amplifier where the wires go at this point, and it will be named different things on different amps.
Power---12v+
Ground---GND
Remote---REM
RCAs---INPUT!!!! (not output)

:excl: You will also have to run some speaker wire from the amp output to your subwoofer. The only thing switching around positive and negative on the RCAs or the speaker wire will do is basically make your subwoofer push out while all your other speakers are pushing in, which causes cancelation and sounds funny but nothing dangerous. Now swapping the positive and negative on the power part could be kind of bad...

If you need help wiring a subwoofer up (dual voice coil or multiple subs), go here

:excl: Once everything is connected to the amplifier you can secure the amp somewhere and put in the main power fuse. There’s going to be a lot of dials and such on the amplifier, and when testing these can be messed with AND it all depends on what amp/sub combination you’re running, so do it carefully. If your amp/sub are pretty well matched (near same power output/handling) a good starting point is:
Gain: 50%
Crossover: Low Pass, roughly 100HZ
Bass Boost: 0

:excl: Now you want your radio on, with the EQ settings on it where you would like it with the subwoofer and about 3/4 volume or where near your max listening would be. Pick a good track too. Let it play and tune the amp (turn up or down the gain control basically). I can’t really go into how to tune a subwoofer, and if you’re nervous leave it to a professional because you can blow your sub, but basically you’re leaving the volume constant and turning the gain up to a good max-ish level for you or where you start to hear the sub doing things it should do (distortion or bottoming out), then at that point turn the gain down a tad from that point. Ideally you don’t want the gain above 75-80%. Also, if after tuning your amp you turn the BASS up on your radio, the bass from the sub will be turned up too and you should normally re-tune unless you’re in the safe zone. A bit confusing, a bit scary if you haven’t done it before, just be careful and don’t blast your sub out :)

I put a bass control knob on my dash so I can independently turn the subwoofer up and down depending on the song etc. Your amp has to have a port for one and ideally should come with it, but it’s not a necessary add-on.



So that’s it! You should have a system up and running. I’m sorry if I skipped things or missed something, if you want to know more information about general car audio or more specific questions that aren’t Sonata related I suggest spending some time on these forums Just like these forums you can learn a lot just by reading other people’s questions and asking your own.

-E
 
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Fairly insane not running grommets on the power wire. What fuse is in the holder? 160 amp? 250 amps? You can burn a lot of car with dem kinda amps!
 

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QUOTE (robspeedGLS @ Oct 26 2010, 05:19 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=366511
Fairly insane not running grommets on the power wire. What fuse is in the holder? 160 amp? 250 amps? You can burn a lot of car with dem kinda amps!
I have to agree, chills when down my spine when I seen the images of the power wire that tight in the hole with no grommets. Nice write up though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
QUOTE (robspeedGLS @ Oct 26 2010, 05:19 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=366511
Fairly insane not running grommets on the power wire. What fuse is in the holder? 160 amp? 250 amps? You can burn a lot of car with dem kinda amps!
Yeah its not moving and I understand the consequences but thank you!
 

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Very good write up!!!
 

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It is a very good write up and I agree with the other on the grommets.I would also recommend putting a grille on that sub.

I know, you'll be careful. I've heard many people say that. then one day they come to me and say, It was raining, I was in a hurry and I just tossed my suitcase in the trunk or something slid around. ETC. there goes the cone or the surround.

Just sayin

nice job on the amp integration. hope they handle the heat well there.

I'd also like to recommend an excellent resource on audio in general. Read, learn and enjoy
http://www.bcae1.com/
 

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Nice write-up, I like seeing the pics of what's underneath all those panels before I open mine up. Did you build the box or was that a pre-fab unit you found somewhere?
 

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the best guide ever, making the guide with the photos and the composition should took you a lot of time. i like to see somebody who has the guts to mess up wiyh a brand new car. Congrats.
 

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Thanks a lot guys, yeah it took some time. I'm not usually the type to do write-ups and stuff but I had the time and write-ups on here have helped me work on other parts of my sonata so why not.

I do plan on getting a grille for the sub, partsexpress has some nice looking minimal bar grilles that I need to try to fit on, might not be wide/tall enough though. I would normally be worried about the heat on amps, but these Alpine PDX amps are pretty awesome.

I built the box, I work in a car electronics shop.

If anyone has any other pic requests or something more specific let me know, just tryin to help out where I have some expertise.
 

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What are the dimensions of the box? I like it and Im trying to figure if Id ever use the fold-down thing. Right now I have a .75cuft box that fits in a corner of the trunk, or at least it did in my old car; havent tried it in the sonata yet. Its for a 12" sub and would allow the fold-down thing to still work on one side of the trunk. I'd like to use a larger box to get more low-end extension, and was just wondering what size yours is.

I still think its a major fail to not use grommets, especially since you work in a shop where they should be practically rolling around underfoot! At MINIMUM what I personally would do if I did not want to pull the cable back out, enlarge the holes and slap in grommets would be to get some very good adhesive and GLUE the cable in place where it passes through the sheet metal. That would eliminate movement and at least buy you more time before the metal cuts through the insulation. You may not think its going to happen but cars vibrate and the entire chassis shudders on rough pavement, not to mention the slammin bass waves running throughout the body. Id seriously re-think things if I were you...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTE (robspeedGLS @ Oct 27 2010, 12:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=366708
What are the dimensions of the box? I like it and Im trying to figure if Id ever use the fold-down thing. Right now I have a .75cuft box that fits in a corner of the trunk, or at least it did in my old car; havent tried it in the sonata yet. Its for a 12" sub and would allow the fold-down thing to still work on one side of the trunk. I'd like to use a larger box to get more low-end extension, and was just wondering what size yours is.

I still think its a major fail to not use grommets, especially since you work in a shop where they should be practically rolling around underfoot! At MINIMUM what I personally would do if I did not want to pull the cable back out, enlarge the holes and slap in grommets would be to get some very good adhesive and GLUE the cable in place where it passes through the sheet metal. That would eliminate movement and at least buy you more time before the metal cuts through the insulation. You may not think its going to happen but cars vibrate and the entire chassis shudders on rough pavement, not to mention the slammin bass waves running throughout the body. Id seriously re-think things if I were you...
Ok ok I'll grommet it guys :innocent:
 

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QUOTE (robspeedGLS @ Oct 27 2010, 01:10 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=366721
:D

Dimensions/internal volume? :)

Also, I was curious after looking at your pics, is your stock sub still functional? I'd think youd remove it to let more bass into the cabin.
I will measure it for you in the next coming days. Yes its still functional, I was going to remove it but think i'll keep it because I find myself turning down the 12" commonly (girlfriend) and the 8" still keeps some bass.
 

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QUOTE (Iceberg802 @ Oct 27 2010, 01:27 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=366736
I will measure it for you in the next coming days. Yes its still functional, I was going to remove it but think i'll keep it because I find myself turning down the 12" commonly (girlfriend) and the 8" still keeps some bass.
Mines tried that with which i replied.. Then get in your car and i will meet you there.. lol
 

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This is a great write up but what I need is the correct colors or location of the rear speakers, has anyone hooked up a hi\low to the rear door speakers?

I looked it up on the Hyundai Service website and this is what they say there: I'm not sure what to look for

I think this is behind the radio so not sure if the color/wires will be the same at the rear door harness.
• Left Rear Speaker (+/-) pink - green (+),(-) radio, white 18 pin plug, pins 1 and 10

• Right Rear Speaker (+/-) brown - white (+),(-) radio, white 18 pin plug, pins 4 and 13

I currently have the LEFT rear panel off above the seatbelt and see the door wiring harness, but I see a few pink and a few green wires... So I need help identifying which ones to connect to. :liebe011:
 
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