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Discussion Starter #1
About a year ago, I let an unnamed family member (cough, my mom) drive my Santa Fe only to discover that she'd driven with the parking brake on for about 10 miles on the freeway. Afterwards, the parking brake pedal would go to the floor and then sometimes engage and sometimes not. I finally got around to replacing the brake shoes this past weekend. If my mom drives your Santa Fe, perhaps this will help you.

Tools Needed:
Breaker Bar
14 mm socket
21 mm socket
Needle nose pliers
Socket wrench
Jack stands
Wheel chocks

Removal Steps:
1. Normal stuff at the beginning: park on level ground, chock both front wheels, etc.
2. Remove the rear wheel. If you have wheel locks, find your wheel lock removal tool.
3. There are two Phillips screws in the rotor. Remove those.
4. Use a socket wrench and/or breaker bar and remove the two 14 mm bolts holding the caliper on. To be clear on the terms, the caliper is what I'm holding in my left hand in the first photo below.
5. Remove the brake pads.
5. Use a socket wrench and/or breaker bar to remove the 14 mm bolt holding the caliper holder. You'll only be able to get at the 14 mm bolt that is towards the front of the car because...
6. Hyundai was stupid and put the 14 mm bolt towards the rear of the car beneath a suspension member (I have no idea what it is called). There's a 21 mm bolt and nut that you'll need to remove. You may be able to remove this with a socket wrench only, but I doubt it. A second breaker bar here helps tremendously. Once the 21 mm nut and bolt are out, hammer this suspension member upwards to get it out of the way. I found that hammering it downwards is much more difficult. This is the last picture I've attached.
7. Once this 21 mm nut and bolt is removed, the rearward 14 mm bolt holding the caliper holder on can be removed. You'll likely need to use a socket extension.
8. The rotor should then come off.
9. The parking brake shoes look like two "C" shaped metal pieces. The old ones are in the 4th picture I've attached.
10. When installed, the 2 C shaped shoes are held to one another with a long spring at the top of the rotor at a short spring at the bottom of the rotor. The 2nd picture I attached shows the lower spring. The shoes are held in place with two clips and rivets that prevent the shoes from sliding inboard and outboard.
11. To remove the shoes, I found it easiest to remove the clips and rivets first. I pressed in on the clip itself with some needle nose pliers and then turned it 90 degrees so I could remove it from the rivet. This is the 5th picture I've attached.
12. Once the two clips and rivets were removed, I used needle nose pliers to unhook the lower spring holding the two shoes together.
13. There's a metal clip that needs to be removed near the upper spring. I've pointed a red arrow at it in the 3rd picture I've attached.
14. Removing the upper spring at the top is a bit tricky. I found it easiest to grab the shoes at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, bring those points towards you, and try to fold the shoes along the line that runs from 12 to 6 o'clock. This brings the ends of the upper spring together and eventually, the spring can be removed and the two shoes can be removed as well.

Installation Steps:
15. The upper spring seemed to be the limiting element here. In other words, you need to put that in first and then everything else (e.g. lower spring, the two clips and rivets, etc) can be put in place. I tried putting the clips and rivets in first on one attempt and realized I couldn't get the upper spring in.
16. Make sure the ends of the upper spring are in each brake shoe. I found it easiest to put each shoe in at an angle. To continue my visual from step 14, the 9 and 3 o'clock positions will be closest to you, you fit the shoes so the top end clips in place, and then push 9 and 3 o'clock positions away from you so that the top end of each shoe stays clipped in place, both ends of the upper spring stay in each shoe, and the upper spring is under tension.
17. The upper spring seems to bear a lot of the load compared to the lower spring so there isn't much wiggle room to play in. It took me a few tries, but I eventually got the tops of the brake shoes clipped in properly **WITH** both ends of the upper spring in place as well.
18. Replace that little metal clip you removed in step 13. I honestly couldn't figure out what this was for.
19. With the upper spring in place, putting in the lower spring and both of the clips and rivets is pretty easy.
20. Put the rotor on.
21. Put both Phillips screws in.
22. Put that 21 mm bolt and nut back on that you removed in step 6. Hammer that suspension member back down in to place.
23. Put the caliper holder back on. Secure both 14 mm bolts.
24. Put the brake pads back in.
25. Put the caliper back on. Secure both 14 mm bolts.
26. Put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts.

My parking brake engages immediately now each time at ~15% of pedal travel vs. sporadically at 100% of pedal travel before.


2,254 Posts
great work man! thank you so much.

1,215 Posts
In addition, some anti seize on the wheel hubs would be in order. Cars in the rust belt would especially need this.

I have an 87 Accord with factory cad plated hubs that still look like new. Seems to be a lost process for several reasons.
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