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I have a 2015 sonata that is NOT have a turbo. I've had an engine knock since about day one. Last month the dealer tried to correct this for the 4th time. They took the head off and sent it to a machine shop to be cleaned as well as cleaning the valves while the head was offf. They said they took more carbon out of my engine than they've ever seen. I haven't missed anything on my maintenance schedule and it's all been done at the dealer. They had my car for about 3 weeks and put 30 man hours into it. I've had my car back for not even a month and the knock is back already.
How many miles? ,Its hard to believe that carbon would be an issue in a years time on a 2015. Sounds fishy to me,did they show you the what all this carbon looked like on the head? What exactly did they do the first three times to your car? Where is the knock coming from?
 

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The first treatment wasTechron, which did nothing. They also had me switch where I was getting gas which was chevron. The second time they kept it for a few days and ran more injector cleaners through it and it did nothing. Third time they used a treatment that had to sit in my engine for a day and that did nothing so they finally removed the head and sent it to a machine shop. They had it for 3 weeks and it seemed to fix it. But it's knocking again. I don't remember the exact mileage of when it began but it was about 3 months after I bought the car. So just a couple thousand miles. They finally removed the head at 27000. It pisses me of because the whole time they were saying they never heard of this problem then later I researched that they lost a class action lawsuit on their gdi engines for the older model. So I know he knew they were an issue. I'm calling tomorrow to tell the dealer the knock is back. I don't understand why they tried injector cleaners on a direct injection engine.
 

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Strange to have that problem so soon and frequently. Something is amiss. 7 months and 8000 miles now on my 2015 2.0T and zero issues. Shell or QT 93 octane at every fill up, I added 2 bottles of Techron at 3500 miles and a couple of days ago, and Penzoil Platinum 5W30 at 945, 3500 and 6800 miles.
 

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Unfortunately it sounds like they corrected the symptom and not the cause. I have not heard of this being a common problem. My 2015 2.0T has 47,000 kms (~29,000 miles) on it and I have not had any problems. I use top tier gas but just regular 87 octane and have never used any additives. It runs great and delivers good fuel economy.
 

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I'd guess oil blow-by or a pcv issue if carbon is building up quickly and significantly. I'd say an oil consumption test is in order at the very least.
 
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Higher octane gas for actual knock.
Thicker full synthetic oil to prevent oil blow-by and to better handle the stress of gdi engine in general.
 

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I hope they get it straightened out for you,I know its very frustrating having a new car and issues like this. Why did they change the injectors? I suspect your fuel mileage had been kind of lousy leading up to this?
 

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my dealer uses BG products
the induction service is a good one

I use their oil flush often.
I do an oil change with cheapo oil
add BG oil flush stuff (I forget the name)
run time and rpms as instructed
drain cheapo oil (now black)
change filter and put in synthetic
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its amazing how fast new oil can go black with this stuff
I am impressed
they recently changed the product line and i forget the name of the engine kit
 

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I have a 2017 Sonata. I have been using 98 Octane and had the oil changed religiously every 5000 kms (3,107 mi). I'm already approaching 20,000 kms (12,430 mi) and had been driving 90% highway speeds of 135 kph (84 mph), 2,700 rpm on 50 kms (31 mi) each way. Recently, I have observed a noticeable drop in performance especially during acceleration and during cruising speed. I now have to step on the accelerator much harder than when the vehicle was new. I have not driven the vehicle more than 155 kph (96 mph) nor 4,000 rpm.



I suspect it might have something to do with carbon build-up and that the build-up has created a gap between the valves and the air intake causing some of the combustion to leak. I also cleaned the intake air filter and it only made almost no difference.



I cannot believe that I am already facing this problem with about 85% of the loan left unpaid.


Has anyone used CRC GDI IVD Cleaner? How was it? Did it improve performance?


Can somebody post a video on how to do it on Hyundai Sonata 2017 or on engines with the same configuration?
 

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You seem to take very good care of your car and yet the issue still occurs. Man, it's like a roll of the dice. Is Hyundai worth it?
 

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I have a can waiting for my next oil change. I believe it's a two person job as you need to keep the RPMs at 2K while spraying into the intake (after the air filter) or directly into the throttle body.... based on the directions on the can.

I have 20K on my car, and haven't noticed much difference in the car yet, but I'll do the best I can and just hoping to get 100K miles. :D

FYI: The price of the product is locally cheaper over amazon.
 

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This thread has been covering this topic for a while
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-2015-sonata-i45/627026-2015-2-4l-intake-valve-cleaning-how.html

I have a post in it about CRC GDI Intake Cleaner and how Ive been using it. It is an easy 15 min job and then let car sit and heat soak for 1 hr and take it out at freeway speeds (I do a few 10-80mph runs, foot to the floor) to blow out any residual cleaner and carbon. Do it before an oil change. The BG GDI Via service is a very good intake cleaner but usually runs about $ 150. For the cost difference (CRC $10-15 a can) Im hoping that routine use of the CRC cleaner every 10000- 15000 miles and using synthetic oil changed at 5000 miles ( intake valve carbon buildup is generally due to no fuel passing over the valves in a direct injection engine to clean them like in a port injected engine so the recycled crankcase gases containing oil deposit on the valve) I also use top tier fuel and occasional BG44k or Techron in the tank to keep injectors clean and fuel system clean.

The CRC website has before and after pictures of the Hyundai /Kia intake valves and piston, Injectors before and after treatment.

Its interesting to me that this is a common problem with all DI engines and yet in our service manual they do not address any maintenance for this. They recommend top tier fuel and/or Fuel additive but that does nothing for the intake valves
 

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I have a can waiting for my next oil change. I believe it's a two person job as you need to keep the RPMs at 2K while spraying into the intake (after the air filter) or directly into the throttle body.... based on the directions on the can.

I have 20K on my car, and haven't noticed much difference in the car yet, but I'll do the best I can and just hoping to get 100K miles. :D

FYI: The price of the product is locally cheaper over amazon.
I do it by myself. a stick or cane wedged between the seat and console will hold accelerator at 2000 rpm and then it can be injected by extending the straw on the can with 10" of drip line tubing and remove the air filter and insert the tubing into the intake hose or remove the vacuum line directly into the intake manifold and inject there or loosen the intake hose at the air filter box and slip the straw between the box and the intake hose. if you inject it before the turbo CRC claims it will also help keep turbo clean (pictures on their site)
 

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"I suspect it might have something to do with carbon build-up"

At 13K miles and your driving habits, extremely unlikely. Would be worth a trip to the dealer to check it out. I have a 2.0L GDI that had a GDI cleaning at 45K with no change in performance. Thought a rough idle was indicating valve build up, but not.
 

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Given that our cars use direct injection (DI) it is a known fact that the engine is prone to increased accumulation of deposits on the valves
Doesn't everyone love the term "it's a KNOWN fact" or "it's a WELL KNOWN fact".

Well, it's a known fact that if you read it on the internet, IT MUST BE TRUE. <grin>.

Same goes for all the talk on this forum about "oil catch can's". IT MUST BE TRUE.
(In the words of the great Roger Hull, who knew what he was talking about, it's all "Mouse Milk").
 

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1) Oil catch cans have been tested and showed no difference in the amount of buildup on the intake valves. There was a pdf paper study on the Theta-ii that showed this. And, there are some SAE papers concerning IVD deposits stating deposits are more likely to form when the vehicle is off. When a hot engine is shut off, all the CC vapors cool and deposit themselves everywhere on cool surfaces, like open valves. Catch cans won't do anything for a vehicle not running which is when the condensation/buildup occurs.
2) Use a synthetic oil. If 2.4GDI, use any of the 1Dexos oils, preferably in 5w30. If 1.6T or 2.0T, use any 5w40 or a high HTHS oil like 2Dexos. Sorry, but conventional oil is trash. And, keep the oil clean with a quality oil filter and severe service change intervals. NOACK is useless when neglected vehicles are blowing oil past the valve seals and piston rings, which is a common owner negligence maintenance problem.
3) Fuel injector cleaners do help. A clean injector spray pattern with fully atomized fuel will reduce the amount of unburned fuel that hangs around when vehicle is shut off. So, keep your injectors clean with toptier fuel and the occasional yearly bottle or 2 of PEA based cleaners. This will also help keep the pistons and combustion chambers clean which will reduced detonation incidents leading to timing retard & fuel enrichment...
4) Not a last resort. Consider a can of IV cleaners every year or two. Don't wait for it to become a problem. Use the cleaners as preventive maintenance.

https://www.gmdexos.com/owner/brands/
https://toptiergas.com/licensedbrands/

Some good videos of various competing products on IVD cleaning here:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2011-sonata-i45/557001-2-4gdi-crc-ivd-intake-valve-cleaning.html

BTW, most IVD cleaners have test results that show 25-50% removal of the buildup. So, if you wait until you have problems, it might take several cleanings to get those intake valves/ports clean enough. Don't wait that long. You don't wait until your engine knocks or seizes before you check the oil level or change the oil? Well, some US consumers do!

No change in performance means your driving style + IVD cleanup were good enough. Or, the IVD cleanup did nothing and left all the crud behind.

For the non-DIYer, BG, CarbonClean, Valvoline... have equivalent overpriced quicklube/shop services. You are paying for labor.
EasyGDI™ | Valvoline
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-gasoline-direct-injection-cleaner/
https://www.motorvac.com/index.cfm?pagepath=CHEMICALS/FUEL&id=31919
https://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/maintain/tune-up/fuel-injector-cleaner/

Most shop have competing service brands with similar induction cleaning systems.
 

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I have a '17 Sonata 2.4 with 28,000 miles. I bought it new just over 1 year ago.
Ive changed the oil aprox 3300 mile intervals using walmart supertech full synthetic oil and OEM filters.
At 15,000 miles I ran that CRC cleaner thru the intake even though the car was running great. I may do the CRC thing again at 30,000 miles.
I run techron injector cleaner about 5000 miles.
My car still runs great, has good power, and often gets over 40mpg.
Avg mpg is more like 35 though.
I'm very happy with this car.
 
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