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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At first I thought I got a really good deal on my new Elantra Limited, and now I'm wondering. Sticker price was $25,450, the out the door price I paid was $20,602. I dealt with them for nearly 3.5 hours to get that price. Could I have done better, or was this a fair price. It included my trade of a 2005 Elantra with 101,546 miles on it. It was in very good condition though.
 

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At first I thought I got a really good deal on my new Elantra Limited, and now I'm wondering. Sticker price was $25,450, the out the door price I paid was $20,602. I dealt with them for nearly 3.5 hours to get that price. Could I have done better, or was this a fair price. It included my trade of a 2005 Elantra with 101,546 miles on it. It was in very good condition though.

Was it a demo car?
Are you financing?
Is it a 2014 model?
Is it a Limited model with Tech package?

Just asking because something smells fishy.
 

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At first I thought I got a really good deal on my new Elantra Limited, and now I'm wondering. Sticker price was $25,450, the out the door price I paid was $20,602. I dealt with them for nearly 3.5 hours to get that price. Could I have done better, or was this a fair price. It included my trade of a 2005 Elantra with 101,546 miles on it. It was in very good condition though.
Yes, it is hard to tell based on the info provided.

If we know the options on the new car and the year and the options on the 2005 Elantra and it's condition, we could get you a better idea.

Also - you said you paid 20,602 out the door - which would include tax, title, and license, but most sites won't include that, so you really paid less than that.

If you want an idea of how the deal came out, I would recommend going to Hassle-free car-buying experience from a nationwide network of certified dealers. - TrueCar and inputting the info on the new car. They will give you an average price, and/or their guaranteed price. Ignore that - look at the invoice price. A good deal is usually around invoice to $2k below invoice.

(You can also check the lowest advertised price on cars.com or autotrader.com for similarly equipped cars in your area.)

Then look at Edmunds for what the old Elantra could get in trade-in.

Subtract that, and then add in the TTL.

Bottom line, though, there's not much you can do now, except celebrate if the numbers come out well or chalk it up to lessons learned if they don't.
 

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You probably did okay - gives us something to work with.

True car says that car (in Georgia) would be 23,202 through their network of dealers, average price paid is 23,811, and invoice is 24,257.

My local dealer that advertises the best prices has 5 of them between 22,291 and 22,391 - which is dead-on with what I said earlier.

Edmunds says the 2005 Elantra should be $2153 for a clean trade-in - less for average - and most cars are below average, and it is hard to get top-dollar on the trade and rock bottom on the new car.

If you got those prices, you would be 20,138 before TTL - so to me, you at least got a decent deal and if that was after TTL, you got a very good deal, IMHO.

This will seem odd, but especially so if you paid cash, b/c they often get a kickback from the finance companies, so they can offer you a better price if you finance.
 

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At first I thought I got a really good deal on my new Elantra Limited, and now I'm wondering. Sticker price was $25,450, the out the door price I paid was $20,602. I dealt with them for nearly 3.5 hours to get that price. Could I have done better, or was this a fair price. It included my trade of a 2005 Elantra with 101,546 miles on it. It was in very good condition though.
Judging form your wording your question is a tad redundant.
You should ask these things b4 buying... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This price included everything, it was an out the door price. They gave me 3800 for my car. I think I did alright. Certainly doesn't look like it was a bad deal. Maybe even a bit above average.
 

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if you're happy, then you did a great deal. That's a very good price you paid. I love the tech package!
 

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Yes if you are happy then it was a good deal. Now quit worrying about your price and go out to your garage or driveway and admire your new ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I do have one question. While test driving Sonata's, I noticed that while backing up the camera grid would bend into a curve with the steering wheel turning radius, the Elantra seems to just remain straight. Is that some additional feature?
 

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16,788 out the door

hi,
I purchased a 2013 Elantra GLS (6speed manual) in late January
sticker was about $17,200 with the dealer add on... (stupid dealers... lol)

Costco had a program going on with many dealers around the nation and I was curious about the price, so I just filled out a form with the cars that i am interested in and bam, 5 minutes after submitting the forms a dealer called me. Keep in mind, i have been shopping for 5 weeks looking for a deal and the lowest i could get was 15,800 before TTL.

As soon as they called they gave me and est price and told me to come in. I was curious and so i did...

We sat down, and 10 minutes later they gave me a price of $13900 and my eyes went O.O!

Cause I live in the lovely stat of illinois.. We get taxed on every single little incentive... I walked out of the door with a down payment to finish the money business the following week.

In total I only paid $16,882 for the car! :eek::eek:
 

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No offense to the OP, but as a former car salesman I can't understand why people negotiate a major purchase and then go online trying to figure out if they got a good deal or not. It's a recipe for self-torture.

Best thing to do is find out the dealer's cost before you buy, through an online service (like carcostcanada.com here in Canada). Then offer the dealer $500 over cost, or whatever makes you feel comfortable. Then enjoy the car. :57:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, so far nobody has shown me that this was not a good deal! a 2014 limited with tech package for $20602 out the door including sales tax, still seems really good to me. The cars sticker was $25450. That means I got better than 19% off the car. How much better could it have gotten?
 

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No offense to the OP, but as a former car salesman I can't understand why people negotiate a major purchase and then go online trying to figure out if they got a good deal or not. It's a recipe for self-torture.

Best thing to do is find out the dealer's cost before you buy, through an online service (like carcostcanada.com here in Canada). Then offer the dealer $500 over cost, or whatever makes you feel comfortable. Then enjoy the car. :57:
lol I agree Don. But maybe it's that grace period or whatever it is that you can still return the item? Can you do that with a car, like return it within 7 days after purchase, lol? That way if you feel you didn't get a good deal, just take it back to the dealer who'll happily refund your money (wink wink)
 

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I tend to agree with Don67 here - there really is nothing good that can come of this. i.e. if the OP got the best possible deal, he is just going to make other owners mad saying "nany-nany-boo-boo, I only paid $20602 and you paid more". If someone posts "I only paid $20,402 out the door and I had the same trade-in", he'll be upset, but what difference does it really make at this point.

CarCostCanada.com is not a free service. I don't know if there is an equivalent in the USA. TrueCar is similar in the USA, but generally, they just save you the negotiating - (their prices are usually not much better than you can get off the street), now, they do show invoice price - and $2K below that is usually pretty good and usually the best price you will find on cars.com or autotrader.com, but I don't know of a USA service that gives true dealer cost.

Can you do that with a car, like return it within 7 days after purchase, lol?
Typically NOT - but it depends on your states contract law and the dealerships policies - Cooling Off Period in Georgia for Auto Purchases - Many people THINK there is, and many dealers WILL allow you to return the car in good faith within three days to a week - but it is up to the dealer's discretion in GA. (OTOH, it is probably overall better for them to take the car back than to have you unhappy about it and telling everyone how they ripped you off and sold you a piece of junk (even if it isn't true).
 

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In most locales, when you drive that new car off the dealer's lot, you have sealed your fate and completed the deal. No "if's, and's, or but's." You own it. You possess it. You keep it.
 

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There are a few things you can do if you want to get out of a car purchase (most of them somewhat unethical).

I ended up returning a used car the next day and the dealer took it back. I said I looked at the finances a little better and I couldn't afford it (which was partially true).

Also - if the financing doesn't go through, or the insurance is more than you planned, you can probably get out of it.

<The first one is a bit of a shady practice for the dealers - they will have you sign for 0.9% interest and let you drive home, then call you in a few days and say you only qualified for 2.9% interest and your payments are higher. They will take the car back in that case, but they figure most people will prefer to keep the car after driving it for a few days.>

You can almost make that work for you: "My loan didn't go through and I can't afford the new payments, so either the bank is going to re-po this car, or you can let me bring it back."

You are still at the dealers mercy, though. i.e. - THEY already got paid. If you want to let the bank re-po the car and wreck your credit, it really doesn't hurt them.
 

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Anyone that walks into a dealership, purchases a car, knowing full well that the payments are going to burden their budget or they really can't afford it...well, I'm not going to say it.

All of you know where I was going with that thought process...

As far as the "Did I get a good deal" goes? Well, if you think you did, you did. If you think you didn't, lick your wounds, learn from it, and remember the lesson the next time you find yourself in a car purchase scenario.
 
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