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Anyone else having an issue with the battery charge level dropping over night or during the day? Several times now (twice just this week) I have gotten to my car either at the end of the work day, or today, first thing in the morning. Opened the door, heard the welcome chime, pushed the button and... click click click... dead battery. If I jump start the car it cranks right up and seems to be fine, until the next time.

Car is at the dealer now, they report that the battery tests fine, the charging system tests fine and they cannot locate a problem. Something is causing a drain on the battery though. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Sorry to hear about that. I don't suppose you have anything plugged in to your AC outlets in the car do you?
Opps you must mean DC outlets. If I remember correctly some 2006 and 07 Azeras had the same problem and it was caused by alarm switch for the hood
the plunger did not make contact with the hood and this caused battery run down
 

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Hmm .... I leave a Garmin plugged in a DC outlet ... will this drain the battery if the engine is off?
 

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Hmm .... I leave a Garmin plugged in a DC outlet ... will this drain the battery if the engine is off?
I don't think it's supposed to. You should be able to verify by turning the GPS on while the car is off, and checking to see if it's "charging". If it is, then the DC outlet is live while the car is off.
 

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they report that the battery tests fine,
You can't always trust a single battery test like that.

An old or defective battery can SELF discharge with nothing connected......usually not significant when new but it can happen.
There have been many reports here of OEM batteries failing WAY too soon. Many of those failures seen to come in areas that are HOT most of the time.

There also have been problems with bad ground connections.

If they are a competent shop they would do two things:
Check for parasitic drain when OFF
AND
Charge the battery and let it sit over night and THEN test it again.

P.S. What part of Central Florida are you in ?
I wouldn't trust the dealer in Ocala to change my wiper blades !!
 

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I don't think it's supposed to. You should be able to verify by turning the GPS on while the car is off, and checking to see if it's "charging". If it is, then the DC outlet is live while the car is off.
I turned the Garmin on while the car was off: the Garmin booted. I guess the DC outlet is live.

I'm not sure if it will drain the battery though if the Garmin is plugged in but the unit is off.
 

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I turned the Garmin on while the car was off: the Garmin booted. I guess the DC outlet is live.
That alone is NOT a good test......as having the power cord plugged in does NOT disable the internal battery. It would "boot up" whether the socket was live or not. ;)
 

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I turned the Garmin on while the car was off: the Garmin booted. I guess the DC outlet is live.

I'm not sure if it will drain the battery though if the Garmin is plugged in but the unit is off.
Doesn't your Garmin have a battery? I'm guessing you can unplug it, and it will still run until the internal battery discharges. Assuming that's the case, you should have a battery indicator on the Garmin somewhere that indicates the battery level. If that shows "charging" when plugged in and the car is off, that would indicate to me that it's pulling power.
 

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Why all the guesswork on possible battery drain? Be sure.
Just hook up an ammeter to the battery terminal when everything is shutdown and measure the current flow, if any. If there is, then systematically remove the varies fuses to determine what part of the system is consuming any power. Then you can narrow it down to the culprit. Once the ammeter shows zero, you know you've found the offending item.

P.S. You might need a wiring diagram to indicate which sub circuit is doing the consuming.
 

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Instead of an in-line ammeter, use a clamp-on meter that measures DC current (not all of them do). With a clamp-on DC ammeter you can check the different wires coming from your positive battery post and see which one is drawing current without having to unhook any of the wires. Having a clamp-on ammeter that measures and holds peak current would let you see if there is an intermittent high draw sometime during the night. I haven't researched this one in detail, but it may do the trick: New MS2108A 4000 AC DC Current Clamp Meter Backlight FRQ Cap Catiii vs Fluke Hol | eBay

There is a link to the meter owner manual on that page, so you can check to see if it will hold peak values over time.
 

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Instead of an in-line ammeter, use a clamp-on meter that measures DC current (not all of them do). ........New MS2108A 4000 AC DC Current Clamp Meter Backlight FRQ Cap Catiii vs Fluke Hol | eBay [/URL]

That device is for heavy current applications. The amp scale doesn't go low enough to catch a low level drain. I typically have to switch my meter into the mA range to get a reading for the on-board computer standby drain.
 

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The amp scale doesn't go low enough to catch a low level drain. I typically have to switch my meter into the mA range to get a reading for the on-board computer standby drain.
My DC clamp meter reads down to 10mA on the 40A range (though probably not that accurately). I would think the one I linked to on eBay would do the same. With his battery going down overnight, he is looking for more than the normal standby drain of the on-board electronics. I'm figuring that to run a fully charged battery down overnight, we're talking 2 to 3 amps of draw. Even 500mA to 1 amp is well within the low range of a typical DC clamp meter. The nice thing about a clamp meter is how you can quickly jump around to each wire as you trace the one that has the high draw. It also is less likely to be damaged from a sudden surge that greatly exceeds the meter's amp rating.
 

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Just hook up an ammeter to the battery terminal when everything is shutdown and measure the current flow, if any.
Good theory but SOME current flow while off is normal.

Maybe 100 ma for all the computer boards, clocks and radio.

Just disconnecting the battery lead to connect the ammeter might reset some things.

Also doing something like opening the door might be hard on the meter if connected on a very low amperage scale.

That is a valid test but needs to be done carefully.
 

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My 09 Accent did the same thing. Dead battery twice. Jump start and was fine for weeks and then did it again. Battery tested good...charging system tested good. New battery fixed it.
 

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This is from the Owner's Manual -

Power outlet
The power outlet is designed to provide power for mobile telephones or
other devices designed to operate
with vehicle electrical systems. The
devices should draw less than 10
amps with the engine running.
• Use the power outlet only when the
engine is running and remove the
accessory plug after use. Using the
accessory plug for prolonged periods of time with the engine off could
cause the battery to discharge.

The way that is written, it would indicate to me that the outlet is hot all the time but then again it doesn't come right out and say that. Good luck!
 

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My daughter had a bad 12v battery on her HSH on the fifth day that she had it. The battery had just enough power to unlock the door, but then the car went absolutely nuts. Made all kinds of noises, didn't recognize the key no matter what she did. Wouldn't re-lock the door to try to make it stop making all the weird noises. Bluelink button would not work to call for help. Just really weird. They replaced the battery and all has been well since.
 

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This is from the Owner's Manual -
...Use the power outlet only when the
engine is running and remove the
accessory plug after use
. Using the
accessory plug for prolonged periods of time with the engine off could
cause the battery to discharge.


The way that is written, it would indicate to me that the outlet is hot all the time but then again it doesn't come right out and say that. Good luck!
Good find. I concur.
 
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