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Discussion Starter #1
I've asked this on other boards but it always seemed to be shot down. First off, I would like to know what effect cooling the fuel prior to the injectors would have? Secondly, I was wondering if riggin in some type of fuel line cooler (ie small radiator type apperatus) could help any benefits of cooling the fuel. Thanks for you feedback.
 

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I doubt you'll see much gains as the fuel doesn't really get that hot. Even then, the fuel is injected into the intake manifold runners and sucked into the cylinder. Plenty of time to warm up. Direct injected engines do see a gain from the charge cooling effect of the injection pulse. Except on high power race engine, I've never seen a fuel cooler being needed. Diesels on the other hand do see a gain from a fuel cooler but that's another story.

Methanol injection does show gains and works but to what extent on a stock engine, I don't know.
 

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Cooling the fuel to a measurable enough amount to show a gain would be more complicated and expensive than worth it. That's usually one of those last tricks that people use to get everything. It's been done before...and for a long time. Old drag racing trick to "ice down" the manifold, literally, on a carbureted engine. Just chilling the fuel to say ice water cold from 110F, would show a gain. How much? 3-5% maybe? That's about a 3-5HP gain on a 110HP carbureted engine. Combine that with other mods and it's the right direction for sure. On a stock fuel injected engine with no change in the tune I doubt would show anything. It'll just inject more or less to keep the A/F ratio in spec.

A true ambient (cold) air intake would gain you more. 1% per 10F degree drop in intake temp is the norm.

http://focus.c-f-m.com/s-maxcoolcanpolished.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #4
very cool replies guys. I really appreciate the info. I do have a SRI and I've been trying to think of ways to keep the engine bay cooler ie exhaust wrap, heat shield etc. Thanks again for the input!!
 

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If you are really interested in cooling the engine bay, have you thought about messing with the underbody airflow. The materials are cheap, and you could surprise yourself with the result.

I played around with this unsuccessfully on my last car, and NX2000, for anyone familiar, they suffer from pretty severe cooling issues, due to a very restrictive front bumper.

but the principle is to have air enter the engine bay from the front, and flow through the engine bay then either out the back side of the hood (ie reverse cowl, or raised hood on washers) and up over the wind shield, or down under car to meet with the underbody airflow as far back as reasonably possible. I played around with coroplast, abs, and other random types of plastic.

One tip that usually works on most cars, is to use an aluminum sheet to cover the top of the space between the top of the front bumper and the radiator/crash support. The trick is to get the air pressure lower (ie faster moving air) at the back of the engine bay than at the front, so that fresh air is always flowing. This will improve your radiator's efficiency and help lower your intake temps.

There is a handheld meter that you can use to measure the air pressure differences while testing, but I always forget what it is called.
 
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