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698 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the instructions for this kit are pretty straight forward. The only issues are when it comes to the wireing.
I used the following rostra kits from summit racing:

250-1799 - kia rio cruise control kit -
250-4206 - clutch kit -

tools needed:
ratchet with 10mm, 12mm sockets
#2 phillips head screw driver
something to pry out the plastic push clips. I used a flathead screwdriver

before starting, you need to buy a spare lock washer, that is identical to the one currently installed on the throttle
this second one will used as a spacer for the cruise control throttle attachment to prevent the throttle plate from binding when closed.
I found this out the hard way. My assumption is that the shape of the kia rio automatic may be different.
Also, the wireing between the Rio auto, and an 2008 accent 3-door GS are somewhat different. Some of the wireing colors did not match. And 2 wires were missing altogether

Cruise control module:

Disconnect the battery.

Mount the cruise module to the passenger side shock tower using the bolt supplied in the kit (1/2" bolt).
the mounting, and run the ground wire to the factory ground strap. The ground strap uses a
10mm bolt. Run the long wiring harness across the back of the engine, to the drivers side,
It will later be run in through the factory grommet.

throttle cable attachment:
The cruise control kit comes with the throttle cable attachment preassembled with parts made
specifically for our cars.
first remove the airhose and the gray plug next to the throttle body.

replace the factory throttle cable mounting bracket with the one supplied in the kit.
The new one will keep the factory throttle is the stock location but allow a mounting point for the cruise control cable

remove the factory throttle bolt and washer, and set them aside

attach the spare lock washer
this step is not part of the kit's instructions, but without this extra washer behind the new cruise control throttle bracket, it will cause the throttle plate to bind when closed

attach the cruise control throttle cable. the throttle attachment can only be inserted 1 way since it is slotted.

now re-attach the factory throttle lock washer and bolt that were set aside earlier.
This can be tricky because there are not mant threads left, while the lock washers are expanded
It will be fine once the bolt is tightened down.


698 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Driver's side dash removal:

Remove the fuse panel cover

remove the driver side sill panel. It is secured by 3 push in clips. After the clips are out just pull it straight up to release the plastic tabs underneath

remove the drivers side kick panel. It is secured by 1 push in clip, and 1 panel clip. Pull the kick panel toward the rear of the car to remove

Loosen the weather seal on the drivers side near the side of the dash. The remove the side panel with the warning sticker on it.
Its only held in loosely by plastic tabs along the edge closest to the rear of the car

remove the bottom driver's side dash panel. Its held in with 3 screws and 2 bolts and 5 or 6 panel clips
I started uncliping it from the drivers side of the dash and worked my way inward.

once the dash piece is free, remove the dimmer switch plug, and slide panel around the steering column adjustment level to remove it.


698 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Clutch kit install:

locate the factory stop bolt for the clutch and remove it.
then using a drill with a 3/8" drill bit, drill out the hole to enlarge it.
use a dremel or a metal file to smooth out any burrs. The clutch switch bolts must sit flush to center the switch
install the clutch switch and adjust it until the clutch switch's button is completely depressed while the clutch pedal is in its resting position

The clutch switch comes with its own pigtail harness. 2 wires and both are purple. This switch is installed inline with the purple brake - wire on the interior cruise control harness


698 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
wiring harness install.

The first step is to pull the engine bay cruise harness into the cabin. I used the fishing method. I pushed a old shoelace from the inside of the car through the factory grommet into the engine bay
I then tied the shoe lace around the cruise harness and wrapped it with electrical tape to smooth it out. It still took a good bit of effort to get it through the grommet.

After the harness was fished into the cabin, I attached all of the wiring taps. All wires use the red taps provided accept for the ignition power connection which uses the provided blue wire tap. This is where I had to make some adjustments
I used the following wires

cruise brake + (red) to accent brake + (red)
cruise brake - (purple) to accent brake - (green)
I just traced the wires from the brake switch to a nice open spot of the firewall to tap. I had to peel back the electrical tape to get at the wires

Power for the cruise unit was tapped to a random orange wire at the fuse panel. I tested it with a DMM and it only had power with in the "key on" position.
Its the 7th wire down in on the left side of the far right plug in the following picture.
Also use have to use the blue tap as its for a larger gauge wire.
Cruise ingnition power (brown) to accent fuse panel (orange/brown)

The last connection is for the cruise control VSS. I connected it to pin 6 of the OBDII scan plug
cruise control VSS (gray) to accent pin 6 on obd2 plug (red/orange)


698 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After all of the wire taps have been installed, I installed the cruise control lever before connecting up the interior half of the cruise control wireing harness

make sure you do not install the harness plug on the cruise control level until it is fully installed on the car.
first remove the bottom half of the steering column cover. Its held on by 3 screws and several plastic tabs all around the edges

then drill a 3/8" hole for the cruise control lever. According to the directions it should be drilled 1 inch from each side and at a 17 degree angle toward the driver.
I cut out a 1" square piece of paper, then marked the holes location with a sharpie. Then I tried to drill as best as I could at a slight angle toward the drivers seat

install the cruise level according to the directions
it has several pieces, make sure to keep them all in the right order before tightening everything back up.

reinstall the bottom half of the steerign column cover back in the car with the cruise control lever installed
route to cruise control lever wire harness, make sure its not near any moving parts
then install the 2 harness plugs on to the end of the control lever wire harness. there is not about this in the cruise control directions because the brown wire will not match when connected to the cruise control's main harness
connect the cruise lever plugs into the main harness
Note: that the brown wire from the cruise lever mates to a (red/black) wire on the main harness

Finish up the install:

After the engine harness is pulled into the cabin, the wire taps have been installed, the clutch switch installed, and the cruise lever installed, the interior wiring harness can be connected to complete the install.
Connect all of the harness wires to all of the wire tap connections from earlier. Wire tie all of the connections out of the way up above the drivers side kick panel.
the blue NSS wire does not get used. You can ziptie it up out of the way or cut it off.

re install all of the interior panels, reconnect the battery, then go for a drive to test the kit.

47 Posts
Has anyone heard if this key works well on autos. I have a 2006 4 door, auto accent and taking it on road trips is a pain. Every car I have owned has had curise but my accent, and I really want to get it but not sure if it is good.

698 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This kit works with an auto, but unlike my install, you will use the blue NSS (neutral safety switch) wire instead of the clutch kit. The NSS wire is tapped to somewhere on the back of the gauge cluster. I am not sure where, since I dont have an auto.

13,367 Posts
Crap. I didn't do a lot of pics...

It's all pretty easy. The control unit is in the box that goes under the hood; you have to pass the wiring through the firewall and that's tight through the one boot.

THis is for an AT, the M/T needs a switch on the clutch so if you press the clutch it disables the cruise.

One of the best mods I did to the car considering the distances I drive it.
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