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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2012 Hyundai Sonata, 2.4 L.
I need to know which Federated oil filter will go on my vehicle.
I also need to know if any other Federated oil filter will fit this engine.
Also , what are the oil change maintence guide lines from the Hyundai.

just doing so needed research.

thanks
 

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The Hyundai filter available at the dealer or EBay is the preferred filter. There have been problems with aftermarket filters. Do a search on the forum.

If you want to use Federated Filters the seller can provide you answers pertaining to the correct filter and cross referencing.

Dealers suggest changing filter and oil at 3000 miles. Manual states 7000 or 7500 miles, can't remember which for sure. I have the dealer change oil and filter at 5000 miles with a tire rotation. Never have a problem.

Bob
 

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I would just use the factory filters. The cost is minimal and the gasket is designed not to remain in place as some after market filters have been known to do. That will generally ruin the engine as the oil sprays out leaving it to self-destruct.

I see no point in changing the oil and filter by the owner. My local dealer charges $24.95 plus tax and all the mess and bother is on his shoulders. And they change the crush gasket which should be done each time. If the dealer messes up, it is on their dime to make it right and you have it on the computer showing the maintenance was done.

The oil change intervals are in the factory owner's manual. Probably about 7,500 miles but I'd probably do it at 5,000 miles or so and rotate the wheels/tires at the same time. Cost is minimal.
 

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I would just use the factory filters. The cost is minimal and the gasket is designed not to remain in place as some after market filters have been known to do. That will generally ruin the engine as the oil sprays out leaving it to self-destruct.

I see no point in changing the oil and filter by the owner. My local dealer charges $24.95 plus tax and all the mess and bother is on his shoulders. And they change the crush gasket which should be done each time. If the dealer messes up, it is on their dime to make it right and you have it on the computer showing the maintenance was done.

The oil change intervals are in the factory owner's manual. Probably about 7,500 miles but I'd probably do it at 5,000 miles or so and rotate the wheels/tires at the same time. Cost is minimal.
You should be careful about generalizations and while the cost might be minimal in Arkansas, that is not universal and while changing your oil and disposing of it might be a hassle for you that is not the case for others like myself. Here in NoVa just outside DC which I bet is similar to a lot of other higher cost areas Jiffy Lube wants over $30 using generic no name stuff and the dealers around here want in excess of $50 up to $75 for an oil change. Some dealers might run specials, but IMO it's a risk anytime you let someone w/o a vested interest in your vehicle touch it especially with some of the horror stories you read about dealers. You can get an OEM filter and crush washer from e-bay for $5/filter and 4qts of Mobil oil from WM run you around $13 so for under $20 and 15min of your time you can save $30 and every penny counts to some folks.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cross reference on oil filters

Thanks for all the information. I do have a manual and understand one can go up to 7500 miles for oil change. i bought a 2012 with approx. 20800 miles on it.
It was a trade in, one owner car. The vehicle was in fantastic shape , in and out.
Hears my problem. On the certification process and get ready to place on the lot again. The normal checks we done. Of those a standard oil change . The dealer ship placed a Federated LF240 F oil filter on it , at appox. 6800 mile since I owned it . Well, it went , BANG while my wife was driving it on the hiighway. Complete and total shut down. Tow truck to a Hyundai dealer ship. Inspection completed. The only thing wrong was the oil filter.

What to do ? what federated oil filter should have gone on it ? We have had no warning before the failure, no lights, pressure gauge, no noises. ???
I have pictures of the filter and all damages. including the hole in the block

The engine examination at the start of the tear down was and is normal. Engine has no sludge, build up or other issues.

In my research I have found that the filter installed was for a 2012 Honda ,2.4L
With different specs.

What does actually happen when an oil filter fails? I realize the pressures are specked out different. But when I ger the dealer to take the filter off and inspect it , the wrong filter, how do you tell that it failed.

By the way the correct filter should have been an Lf565

I need some suggestions on how to approach this with the dealership. They are telling me that the filter applied, LF240 is intnterchangable with the LF565
I call foul. I have found no cross reference for these filter .

Can anyone else finds if these filters are compatibable with each other?v

Thanks
 

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Can anyone else finds if these filters are compatibable with each other?v
I don't understand two things about this:

Why you seem to be stuck on Federated filters
AND
Why it makes any difference.....since a dealer mistake or failure of dealer installed parts should be covered under your warranty.
You DID check the oil every day before driving.......right ?? (wink, wink)

Now if I were in your shoes, I'd be VERY interested for future reference and if it was the wrong filter, I'd not be going back to that dealer again but if there is a hole in the block from sudden engine failure, it looks to me like they owe you a new engine......or a different car.
 

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You should be careful about generalizations and while the cost might be minimal in Arkansas, that is not universal and while changing your oil and disposing of it might be a hassle for you that is not the case for others like myself. Here in NoVa just outside DC which I bet is similar to a lot of other higher cost areas Jiffy Lube wants over $30 using generic no name stuff and the dealers around here want in excess of $50 up to $75 for an oil change. Some dealers might run specials, but IMO it's a risk anytime you let someone w/o a vested interest in your vehicle touch it especially with some of the horror stories you read about dealers. You can get an OEM filter and crush washer from e-bay for $5/filter and 4qts of Mobil oil from WM run you around $13 so for under $20 and 15min of your time you can save $30 and every penny counts to some folks.

Larry
How much does an engine cost to replace if done improperly?

How do you dispose of the old old and filter? Even at $75 a pop it is still less and there is a paper trail.

The income on the coasts are higher so it evens out.

I still don't see the point and I have done many oil changes over the years but with the environmental regulations of today it isn't worth the hassle.
 

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How much does an engine cost to replace if done improperly?

Obviously if one is incapable of properly changing one's oil then they shouldn't do what they are incapable of or better yet learn how ... it really is easy. Just the subject of this thread appears to present the possibility that having a dealer do this is not so much of a guarantee since it appears a dealer might have used a non conforming filter and an engine blew up maybe from an improper oil change or some other reason.

How do you dispose of the old old and filter? Even at $75 a pop it is still less and there is a paper trail.

Up here and from all my research almost every where there are free recycling centers at the county and even requirements for sellers of oil to accept used oil. Thus the cost is generally zero like it is here in NoVa.

The income on the coasts are higher so it evens out.

Not sure about what you are "evening out" since a dollar saved is a dollar to spend on other things regardless of where you live.

I still don't see the point and I have done many oil changes over the years but with the environmental regulations of today it isn't worth the hassle.

I would suggest doing a little more research and while it might take some advance planning I don't see it as any hassle and there are many here unless they are getting a sweet deal from their dealer also change their own oil and seem to do just fine. You might consider it a hassle since you haven't investigated all the avenues available to you to do it yourself w/o the hassles you seem to be afraid of.
Larry
 

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I have 5 cars at home and save at least $400 a year by doing my own oil changes.
Environmental is easy - local town has a recycling program for oil.
It adds up....quickly.
 

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What would I possibly gain my changing my own oil and filter at $25 a pop? And it costs money, time and aggravation to take the oil and filter to a recycling center. And you need a special crush tool to remove the oil from the old filter. You can't just throw that in the trash legally.

I've have done many oil changes in my lifetime. I have $4,000 worth of tools and every possible oil filter tool in my tool box. And I have some left-over OEM and other filters as well. I have better things to do with my time.

If you like oil running down your arm, staining the garage floor, jacking the car up or ruining your front facia on ramps as I once did, go for it.
 

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What would I possibly gain my changing my own oil and filter at $25 a pop? And it costs money, time and aggravation to take the oil and filter to a recycling center. And you need a special crush tool to remove the oil from the old filter. You can't just throw that in the trash legally.

I've have done many oil changes in my lifetime. I have $4,000 worth of tools and every possible oil filter tool in my tool box. And I have some left-over OEM and other filters as well. I have better things to do with my time.

If you like oil running down your arm, staining the garage floor, jacking the car up or ruining your front facia on ramps as I once did, go for it.
You can make all the what I consider lame excuses you want, but centers that recycle oil like the one here have a bin for the oil containers and filters which I bet most do so no special tools like you think you need are required. If a center recycles oil then they either take the container that has the oil in it, including filters or if uses a bulk storage container like here has something to properly take care of empty oil contaminated containers including again filters.

If you can't remove a filter and plug w/o having oil running down your arm then I agree you shouldn't be attempting something that is apparently beyond your capabilities. Again only a neophyte would attempt to use ramps not suited for the vehicle they are attempting to raise and again is just either a lack of understanding or ability to use the correct tool for the job they are accomplishing. The Race Ramps I have even have special extensions for the extra low front vehicles like Vettes, etc.

It might beyond your capabilites or desires to change your oil and ensure you do it right w/o cross threading filters, having some HS dropout use the wrong oil from the bulk oil nozzle, etc., but for me and I bet many, many others you are in the minority.

Larry
 

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I have 5 cars at home and save at least $400 a year by doing my own oil changes.
Environmental is easy - local town has a recycling program for oil.
It adds up....quickly.
You and I understand this, but some think it's too hard to understand and comply with.

My whole point was to caution one that generalizations that you shouldn't mess with changing your own oil is the correct way to always go which for most I bet is not.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I not stuck on the Federated filters . I just want concrete proof from several sources on what is the correct filter. Because now I'm dealer with a remanuf. motor, , yes I'll get a new warranty either from the dealership that pays for the repairs or the new one from the rebuild engine from the Hyundai manufact.
i just want to be able to get this back to my advantage. I mean do well all have to check the filter under the cars when we buy them? I have went around to several places that deal with the exact filter that was on my car and I bought some. for demonstration processes ...the lowest price for that thing federated calls a filter (LF240F) was $2.15... ? after I stopped laughing... I said now give me the LF 565... again only slightly higher .. again the laughter from me ... i said thank you and walked out ... but the best is that I called the exact dealership that bought the car from and "A" service person advised me on the filter of LF565 is the correct filter for my car.
I'm now in conversations with the general manger of the dealership. And he was honest enough to get me a copy of the original work order for the recondition of the vehicle to get it on the lot....
The saga continues ...................
 

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You can make all the what I consider lame excuses you want, but centers that recycle oil like the one here have a bin for the oil containers and filters which I bet most do so no special tools like you think you need are required. If a center recycles oil then they either take the container that has the oil in it, including filters or if uses a bulk storage container like here has something to properly take care of empty oil contaminated containers including again filters.

If you can't remove a filter and plug w/o having oil running down your arm then I agree you shouldn't be attempting something that is apparently beyond your capabilities. Again only a neophyte would attempt to use ramps not suited for the vehicle they are attempting to raise and again is just either a lack of understanding or ability to use the correct tool for the job they are accomplishing. The Race Ramps I have even have special extensions for the extra low front vehicles like Vettes, etc.

It might beyond your capabilites or desires to change your oil and ensure you do it right w/o cross threading filters, having some HS dropout use the wrong oil from the bulk oil nozzle, etc., but for me and I bet many, many others you are in the minority.

Larry
I don't really believe it is necessary to become hostile to a different point of view. I wasn't born yesterday. The simple fact is that most people should just let the dealer do it and pay the nominal charge.

I don't do plumbing and I don't do electrician type work. And I don't scale tall skyscrapers either. I don't get up on the roof to inspect it either. Sometimes people who do something for a living actually know how to do things well and with minimal problems. With a lot of people they get into these messes and then it causes far more trouble than if they had simply taken it to the dealer.

I've seen threads here telling us how "simple" it is to add things after the fact like running lights or fog lamps. This is craziness. They are also voiding their warranty in many cases. But we are told how simple it was and "anyone" can do it. While oil changes appear to be simple and in the "old" days were, today's cars are much more complicated and difficult to work on. In fact they are nearly impossible to repair without a dealer's computer system. One could invest in an after market computer to tell the fault code but then what? If the engineers who designed these cars had their own personal vehicle break down in the middle of nowhere, they would have no alternative but to call for road service and have it towed or flat bedded back to a dealer. And changing a tire out on the road is another form of craziness. It's also a very good way to get killed too.

I you are paying $75 for an oil change it might make sense. For $25 it makes no sense for me. If I had to pay $75 I would as well. I also rotate my own tires because I like to personally torque down the wheel studs and inspect the tires and wheels. But even that has to be done with caution and the proper tools.
 

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You can make all the what I consider lame excuses you want,
And I think YOU are coming dangerously close to being rude and insulting.......totally without justification. :mad:

HE and others find it better to have someone else do it.
YOU choose to do it yourself.

BOTH are the right choices for the person involved.

BTW, two years ago a friend of mine was changing his own transmission fluid and forgot to set the parking brake. Car rolled off jacks and broke both his legs. He is lucky to be alive and is just now walking near normal again.
Sometimes "stuff" happens. THAT is not a lame excuse, my friend.
 

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With all of this said guys, I still think that for $29.00 I will let the dealer worry about getting dirty and if something happens to the engine or whatever, it is their problem. This is me and only my opinion.
 

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And I think YOU are coming dangerously close to being rude and insulting.......totally without justification. :mad:

HE and others find it better to have someone else do it.
YOU choose to do it yourself.

BOTH are the right choices for the person involved.

BTW, two years ago a friend of mine was changing his own transmission fluid and forgot to set the parking brake. Car rolled off jacks and broke both his legs. He is lucky to be alive and is just now walking near normal again.
Sometimes "stuff" happens. THAT is not a lame excuse, my friend.
All true, but it wasn't I that was advocating that owners in general not change their own oil and my original post simply cautioned against that generalization as not applying to others and it was others that escalated the discussion to what I considered and still do as lame excuses for one not to change their own oil like being too hard, too much of a hassle, damaging their car and getting some oil on them. Those are IMO and still are "lame" excuses and I never once said one had to change their own oil.

Your example of the car rolling off the jacks and almost injuring someone and trying to equate it too what type of excuses I called lame is trying to apply an example that is totally not germane to the type of "excuses" being discussed here and what I am calling lame. That is IMO another example of attempting to inflame and escalate the discussion to an unnecessary level. Even so if you are somehow advocating that one should never put a car up on jacks to work on it since as you say "STUFF HAPPENS" I would submit that borders on what I consider to be a ridiculous argument so I now expect you will be one to post negatively and advise others not to do anything to their car that might require using jack stands based on the example you used in this thread since as you said "STUFF HAPPENS" and could be dangerous.

I will be waiting with anticipation to see if you are going to be consistent.

BTW if you look back in all my posts you will find that I never said whether I changed my own oil or went to the Dealer or Jiffy Lube and was only countering the argument that only the dealer should be the one to change one's oil.

I'm thru and if one hasn't gotten the points I was trying to make they probably never will;)

Larry
 
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