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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am having a crank and no start issue for a while now and still can't figure out whats goin on here.. dealership checked fuses and relays they came back fine. there was an active CEL code for Low System Voltage would that have something to do with my problem here, and what else could be the problem? this has happened in the past after short 2 min drive and go in the store and come back out from being in the store for a few mins, eventually it does turn over but not without alot of cranking and curse words, until now I just found out after a longer 20 min trip it did it again, telling me its getting worse. 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 kms
 

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I am having a crank and no start issue for a while now and still can't figure out whats goin on here.. dealership checked fuses and relays they came back fine. there was an active CEL code for Low System Voltage would that have something to do with my problem here, and what else could be the problem? this has happened in the past after short 2 min drive and go in the store and come back out from being in the store for a few mins, eventually it does turn over but not without alot of cranking and curse words, until now I just found out after a longer 20 min trip it did it again, telling me its getting worse. 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 kms
Perhaps a bad fuel pressure regulator? Look at this post.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/195-sm-2001-2006-santa-fe/126358-02-hard-start-when-warm-awful-smell-when-starts.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks johnaauld.. I will have a look tomorrow and see if there is anything wet in that area.. hard start or not will it still show it being wet there all the time 24/7?? can't remember if I mentioned in the last post was that the fuel I know it suppose to humm if its ok.. but when or just before its the hard start problem after these short trips and such is I dont hear the pump humm?
 

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Hyundai_81, you should hear the fuel pump whirr or hum each time you turn the ignition on. That's always been the case for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yes OkieRich, I do but on occasion when I know its not gonna start I don't hear anything. would it humm every time I turn the key on even when I shut it off and turn it back on a few seconds later?
 

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I would think that since there is already fuel pressure present in the rail from the first attempt seconds prior...probably no need for it to ramp up on subsequent attempts when the key start activates quickly thereafter. Only after it has sat idle for a bit and the pressure subsides. Then it would hum on an attempted restart.

I'll defer to an expert for confirmation on this one. I could be wrong.
 

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At some colder times I would start my diesel engine by using a double glowplug period to heat up the cylinders a bit more.
This is done by turning the key twice with only a second or two in between.
Always I hear the pump whining on both turns, so I only experience an always activating pump.
As you mention yourself in your post the startup fails when you do not hear the pump whining,
So I would suspect either the pump relay or the pump itself.
You can temporarily swap the pump relay (in the fusebox in the engine bay) with another of the same color, they are identical to see if you have cured it then.
Otherwise you should suspect the pump itself (within the fueltank!) or it's connector to be faulty.
But seen your 205,000 kms it could be the pump.
Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thats what I suspect to paul03 and thanks for your help. I wasn't so sure cuz looking at some videos on youtube there is alot to look at when testing and finding the problem and funny thing it only does it in this type of cold weather, anything above -20 no problems at all. so is it still possible for the pump to do this only in the very cold temps? and not do it at all in the milder to hotter weather??
 

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I then would suspect it could have something to do with your previous Low Voltage error code. I think it comes in at a battery voltage lower than 9 volts.
Cold weather like this certainly puts a lot of strain on the battery and/or alternator.
You could check if the clamps at the battery are still clean and tight.
Also the little side connector at the alternator well seated.
You might check the voltage while crancking the engine.
Or temporarily monitor it by a voltage meter internally to f.i. the cigarette lighter plug.
Normally the voltage shouldn't go much lower as 11 volts while starting up.
While at rest a battery should show some 12.5 volts.
Driving voltage (under charge of the alternator) should normally be around 14.4 volts.
But if you have a lot of only short drives there are relatively much startups, thus big drain, and little time to charge the battery again.
So maybe your battery then is getting low on power / voltage so the pump maybe only experiencing that. Voltage measurement should tell you.
However, you could also maybe take out the battery at night when the car is sitting outside in this cold for long time.
Or is it in heated garage?
Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #10
nope sits outside in the cold. I bought a battery load tester and it checks the condition of the battery and alternator.. battery came back good and charged, but when to check the alternator state the display read ---- and the book says the voltage is unstable and cannot read it.. and tells me to replace the battery.. but also says to test at 0 celcius and after sitting for 30 mins after driving.. it was cold that day so maybe I dunno, also I should add is my battery has 875 CCA but tested at 770 CCA??
 

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I guess, there might be a little issue with the alternator then.
Maybe you should repeat the alternator test with lifting the revs a bit to 1000/1200 or so, idle could be difficult for any alternator at high loads.
You could check the tention of the alternator driving belt for dry and no slip condition.
Certainly, temperatures as -20 are harsh for battery and alternator and I suppose they will not go back to 0 degrees soon.
With this seemingly unstable alternator result I would simply check voltages at the battery.
I find such result of ---- a bit unclear, what was checked for?
Like I mentioned, 12,5 volts at rest (is a battery check, but I suppose your battery is ok) and not drop a lot at f.i. headlights on.
At running engine (alternator) the battery voltage should come up to some 14.4 volts and be quite steady (you might rev a bit up to 1000 revs for stable voltage).
Under (heavy) load by switching on the headlights or the AC (at revs like 1000) the voltage should still remain in the 14.x region. If it drops a lot your alternator seems not to cope with heavy load conditions, so constant charging of the battery could be compromised.
But then it looks like a voltage regulator problem within the alternator (or defective diode within).
You could check the 120Amps big fuse in the fusebox for properly bolted in, also the 2 big bolted on wires and also the bolted big wire at the alternator. Attention, constant 12 volts from the battery there. It hooks up the alternator to the battery. (you might undo the negative battery cable first for safety).
You also could check the 15 amps fuse B+/ECU, which provides the battery sensing voltage for the alternators' voltage regulator.
Because your 205,000 kms it also could be a bit worn out internal brushes of the alternator.
They are used by the voltage regulator to regulate by means of the electric magnetic field of the alternator. More alternator load means/needs more field current. When worn they could be unable to do so. Then you need to overhoal or replace the alternator.

Good luck,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #12
had the alternator replaced a few years ago do to a pulley bearing problem. but thanks for your help turns out it was the tester itself claims it checks the charging system and in fact it doesn't so I bought a less expensive digital one and it tested fine, battery and alternator.. battery was reading after sitting for 30 mins or so.. 12.2 Volts and with alternator was 14.3 Volts.. still passes the test according to the tester.. that was false advertising with the more expensive one. anywho it seems fine.. still on the search why it was storing a active code for a low system voltage..
 
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