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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone

My 2008 Hyundai Accent was having slow start issues and now no longer starting (cranks, but not starting). I laid out what I've done so far and a new issue that cropped up while troubleshooting. Appreciate any help or insight into this.

Battery
* Had it checked at advance auto, when it was starting slow, and they said it was ok


Spark Checks

* Tested spark plug integrity -- found some issues here so replaced them
* Check for spark from the plug -- put in grounded plug and tried to start and was getting spark (uploaded video just in case there's something there that might be helpful)
https://youtu.be/o34kF2mSGuE

Fuses
* Visually inspected fuses and they look good


Fuel Pump Checks

*Check at Gas Cap -- turned key to on, but unable to hear fuel pump buzz at the gas cap
*Check fuel pump fuse -- checked fuel pump fuse to make sure they were good and didn't see any issues with visual inspection
*Check relay fuse -- turned key to on and heard click but wasn't able to feel it click with my finger on top of it (still need to check w/ multi-meter, but need to get some clips first to connect to my battery)

When the key was turned to the on position, it made a strange hissing sound. Sharing it in case it is a clue into what is going on (sorry for the low audio). I noticed in the video above I didn't hear the hiss, so may be a new problem.
https://youtu.be/bxbzVHVfVIk

My next step was to try using starting fluid into my intake then give it another try (just have to make a run to the store to pick up some starting fluid).

I noticed one of the spark plug wells had rust inside (pic attached). Could this cause this startup issue?
 

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When you turn the ignition on you should hear the fuel pump relay click twice....on then off after the 2 second prime. If you only hear one click that will likely be the engine control relay.

You could try a bypass test on the fuel pump relay then listen to see if you can hear the pump running. I'd have a go at starting it too with the relay bypassed.

To bypass the fuel pump relay, remove it from the fusebox and use a short link wire to bridge the two terminals of the relay socket on the fusebox as shown below.

 

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If you have a misfire on that cylinder with the rust in the spark plug well
Then may need to replace the Coil Over Plug (COP)

As for the no start issue, Checked spark .. good?
Checked for fuel pump prime when key is first turned to the on position .. good before but not now??
Checked all fuses ... visually .. good???
Need starter fluid to test for fuel system issue

First would test engine with starter fluid.
If it starts and runs with starter fluid then fuel system issue?
Do checks on fuel pump relay (as Autospark suugested)
If it cranks and doesn't start then different issue?

Good luck
 

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Do you have access to a scanner that can give live data like coolant temp, rpm (during crank), maybe fuel pressure? There are only so many things left above what you already checked.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks a lot everyone. Electricity has been hit or miss where I am so just getting started testing again.

I tried using starting fluid into my intake and wasn't able to get it to start. I tested the fuel pump relay using a multi-meter and it tested out ok.

I'm only hearing the one click of fuel pump relay and will head to the store in a bit for a link wire to try out Autospark's suggestion -- will report back later today.
 

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Do you have access to a scanner that can give live data like coolant temp, rpm (during crank), maybe fuel pressure? There are only so many things left above what you already checked.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Unfortunately not. I have an Actron Pocket Scan Plus that I used to check for codes. Is there one you'd recommend with the additional checks? I can ask at the store to see what options they have when I go too.
 

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QUOTE:
I tried using starting fluid into my intake and wasn't able to get it to start. I tested the fuel pump relay using a multi-meter and it tested out ok
.

- lets recap

Spark plugs look good no cracks.
Coils look good. Even a rusted coil will not stop a startup
you added fuel remotely bypassing the fuel pump
check fuel pump relay. You can swap relays as they are the same type in this vehicle to quickly test
starter turns hear it turn rules out a bad starter
battery fully charged (if battery issue the starter would SOUND like its struggling to start)

suspect:



Test for spark on crank. If no spark this could be no sensor info getting to the computer from the crank sensor. Something to test. Not sure if the fuel injectors get disabled if there is no crank signal. Adding starting fluid shows fuel added but coil over plug no spark. Look up video how to test for spark on a coil over plug. If you get nothing id be testing the crank for signal. This can only be done with a scope to test the signal to the computer. If there is a signal the crank is sending the correct signal. If your not sure don't throw parts at it as this may cost you more than simply taking it to a shop with a scope to test signals of the crank and cam sensors.
 

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Hyundai says check these too:

Engine will not start or struggle to start
Vapor hose damaged or disconnected

Engine struggle to start
Malfunction of the Purge Control Solenoid Valve

Ignition lock switch
Inspect ignition lock switch, or replace as required

We know that you have spark. Fuel may still be an issue. You have good sounding crank so the fork on the starter is ok and the teeth on the flywheel of drive plate are good. the key immobilizer may be suspect. Looking at mfi system I would check injector pulse on start to make sure the ecm is sending out injector pulse. Your getting coil spark which means the ecm is sending grounds to the coils and 15amp coil ign fuse is good. The only thing I can think this is if the fuel is ruled out is crank or cam sensor. Attached in rared MFI wire diagrams for these systems so you can test. The signal testing make sure you know what you are doing so you do not fry the ecm. Do NOT use a test light on the signal wires. use dvom. If yor not sure take it to a pro. Good luck.

Need WinRAR to unrar and use INTERNET EXPLORER to open .htm files to view the wire diagrams for the cam and crank and injectors and coil circuits.

Have no idea if your car is automatic or standard.... there are wire diagrams for both.

MFI Control System
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wasn't able to find a link wire that would work well at the store I went to, but I swapped relays and wasn't able to hear the pump or start get it to start.

I forgot to mention my car is a manual. Thanks a lot for the guidance and the diagrams. I'll step though the recommended checks and test out the sensors.

By the way, you do a great job with your videos online. I used them to change my belts last year.
 

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I wasn't able to find a link wire that would work well at the store I went to, but I swapped relays and wasn't able to hear the pump or start get it to start.

I forgot to mention my car is a manual. Thanks a lot for the guidance and the diagrams. I'll step though the recommended checks and test out the sensors.

By the way, you do a great job with your videos online. I used them to change my belts last year.
Thank you, I hope we all pay it forward..... Glad my video's of me taking care of my car helped. Diy has saved me big cash over the past 9 years! Learned much troubleshooting as well.
 

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You fuel pump is under back seat if you need to access it. Usually replace fuel sending unit as whole. Held but circle of bolts and it's easy to replace. What I would do is to save 1000 bucks is to get in line fuel adapter and hook it to fuel rail and this will give you a fuel port to connect fuel pressure gauge to. Then turn key see of you have fuel pump prime. Then turn key and see if fuel pressure meets spec 49-50.5 psi. If you get lower than this car may not start. If you have bad wire going to pump you might be lucky to check from fuel pump relay to pump for voltage drop and it might be wire issue. Don't replace fuel pump tell you check the wiring. You can also use t pin and power probe and apply voltage to fuel pump as well.

This is the one I own

https://www.toolsource.com/fuel-injection-test-sets-c-1321_182_184/fuel-rail-pressure-adapter-test-kit-11mm-16mm-p-100146.html
 

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I wasn't able to find a link wire that would work well at the store
The store?

Any piece of wire you have lying about the house will work (paper clip, etc). You could even use your multimeter to bypass the relay, assuming it has an 10A ammeter function.

liutan said:
but I swapped relays and wasn't able to hear the pump or start get it to start.
Swapping relays only tells you the relay itself is maybe good. It doesn't tell you anything about the circuit that controls the relay.
 

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Unfortunately none of us (except for sbr) have access to resistance values to test the fuel pump. Bypassing the relay, you can at least check you're getting 12v at the relay and you're sending it down the line. Then check at the pump to make sure that is receiving the current and being commanded on.

If you have the Tac jumping up while cranking then your crank signal is probably OK. Since you have no codes, it's most likely not a sensor though that's never a 100% guarantee. That's where a better scantool can help you a little by giving you those data pid's.

When you tried the starter fluid, did you try feeding it continuously while someone else cranked or sprayed some, got back in your car and tried to start? If you have little/no fuel delivery you might need quite a bit more to have the engine start on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The store?

Any piece of wire you have lying about the house will work (paper clip, etc). You could even use your multimeter to bypass the relay, assuming it has an 10A ammeter function.


Swapping relays only tells you the relay itself is maybe good. It doesn't tell you anything about the circuit that controls the relay.
Sorry about that, Autospark. I went a little too literal and went searching for a wire link.

I ended up using a paper clip and I could hear the fuel pump humming. Then I went to turn it on and after a few tries it started up very roughly before shutting off.

Thanks again, feels like we're getting closer. Any thoughts on what to try next?
 

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Unfortunately none of us (except for sbr) have access to resistance values to test the fuel pump. Bypassing the relay, you can at least check you're getting 12v at the relay and you're sending it down the line. Then check at the pump to make sure that is receiving the current and being commanded on.

If you have the Tac jumping up while cranking then your crank signal is probably OK. Since you have no codes, it's most likely not a sensor though that's never a 100% guarantee. That's where a better scantool can help you a little by giving you those data pid's.

When you tried the starter fluid, did you try feeding it continuously while someone else cranked or sprayed some, got back in your car and tried to start? If you have little/no fuel delivery you might need quite a bit more to have the engine start on it.
Thanks, I'll check later this week to see if the voltage is making it to the pump when I bypass the relay.

No, when I using the starter fluid I sprayed then hopped in to try to start it. I wasn't sure how much was needed, so I sprayed for roughly 10 seconds all together before starting it up. I'll try to get someone else to start it up when I spray.
 

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Thank you, I hope we all pay it forward..... Glad my video's of me taking care of my car helped. Diy has saved me big cash over the past 9 years! Learned much troubleshooting as well.
I'm hoping to be able to pay it forward one of these days. I appreciate the details on the fuel pump as well.
 

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some more info on testing

Fuel pump installation bolts/nuts:

2.0 ~ 2.9N.m (0.2 ~ 0.3 kg.m, 1.4 ~ 2.2 lb-ft)

Remember before playing with fuel pump in tank or hooking up fuel rail port adapter for a fuel pressure tester pull the fuel pump fuse start the car tell it stalls to remove pressure in the fuel line then you can check these items:

 

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