I took your advice and removed the male and female plastic housings but kept the pins and sockets attached to their wires. Actually the male plastic housing was so brittle and heat damaged that it fell apart in my hands before I could get a picture. I slipped some heat shrink tubing over the female ends, pushed it back, inserted each pin into its socket, soldered the connections together and then pulled the heat shrinks over each of the connections. The picture is the end result. This is the 3rd try (1st was CKS, 2nd was fuel pump) so hopefully this nails it. Just have to get up my nerve to drive around the block a few times but it does start reliability now and tugging on the new connections doesn't affect anything. Thanks for all the help (once again). I feel like we are now all familyExactly. That is the root cause of your problem, not the broken connector on the coil.
Personally, on an older car like yours, I would just remove the connector all together. Cut the connector from the harness and from the original coil and either solder the wires directly together or use crimp on terminals. The original coil isn't faulty, so why bother replacing it.