Post a picture of this coil and cracked connector area if you can. A picture is worth a thousand words and this thread is now 14 pages and many thousands of words long :laugh:
Glad you finally managed to trace where the fault is, although I'm surprised a cracked connector shell/case would cause that sort of issue. If the damage isn't preventing the male pins on the coil side from aligning with the female one of the harness side I don't see why there would be a break in the connection. Anyway, fingers crossed the new coil cures the problem.coil wiring harness connector towards the firewall and the engine stumbled and stopped.
It was just the most obvious place for the fault to be given what you had just done.rreitz said:I can't believe you pinpointed this down to the exact connector!
Yeah, that's a nice "field fix". At least it was on the negative side of the battery.charlescrown said:Scottie will get a laugh out of this one. How creative Aussies can be if we need to.
I have learned not to doubt your intuition. I can reliably stall the car by pulling on the connector/cable and reliably start it by pushing the connector/cable the other way. But I agree it may not be an issue within the connector itself. When I disconnected the male and female ends and put an ohm meter on pins on the coil male end the meter measured steady no matter how hard I pulled or twisted the connector. So the issue may be in the female end or maybe somewhere further down the cable. There is about 4" of cable on the harness end that moves before it disappears into a larger loom that it breaks out from. I will have to investigate whether something is amiss further down on that end as well. Also wondering if this could be an EMI issue. With the connector not secured in its tab on the coil mounting bracket it does float pretty close to #1 spark plug terminal post and in some cases could rest right up against it - maybe causing interference with signal lines?I'm surprised a cracked connector shell/case would cause that sort of issue. If the damage isn't preventing the male pins on the coil side from aligning with the female one of the harness side I don't see why there would be a break in the connection.
Have you tried testing the harness side of the connector?When I disconnected the male and female ends and put an ohm meter on pins on the coil male end the meter measured steady no matter how hard I pulled or twisted the connector.
No, I think that is highly unlikely.rreitz said:Also wondering if this could be an EMI issue.
I think we know it is not the coil itself but something in the wiring from the coil connector or into the harness. Interesting that you mentioned running on 2 cylinders. I suspect it actually did this a few times in the beginning of this adventure. The first time something strange occurred was upon start the engine was banging around and struggling to run for about 2 seconds then caught and all was well. It did this 2 or 3 times more after that in a 1 week period. Now that you mentioned running on 2 cylinders that sounds like what it was doing before it straightened itself out. The suspicious part of all this is the cracked coil connector which is in the middle of all this. Hard to believe it is not somehow contributing. I will probe some more tonight.I question that if it is a coil why did the engine cut out instead of run on 2 cylinders. Not likely they both have a fault. Time will tell.
Hard failures are easy. Intermittent are nearly impossible. They toy with you to find the limits of your patience. But I'm nearly there. I checked the male and female ends of the connector and each terminal is solid. Checking for voltages on the female end with the car not running but ignition key on there is a solid 12V on pin 3 and unwavering small voltages on the two signal pins when open to the air. By solid I mean I pushed, pulled, twisted, cursed and even invented some new swear words but nothing wavered. Same story on the male end using the Ohm setting this time. The correct Ohms registered no matter how rough I got with that end.We all wait with baited breath. I had a car that was cutting out and it turned out to be a bad connection on a fusible link. It started melting the plastic plug so that one was fixed. I have another that I recently bought that on odd occasions you start it up and none of the electricals work. Turn it off and restart and they work so that's my next challenge.
Upon further examination of this small hole right under terminal 3 on the bottom side of the male connector end, it appears this was caused by the connector melting in this area. That probably explains why the other cracks appeared with the connector then separating from its mounting tab. This is the area where applying sight pressure on the bottom of the connector causes the car to stumble and stop. I suspect something might have happened inside the connector to cause the 12V to go to ground maybe? However there are no ground wires in the connector, just two signal wires and a 12V input. Any theories on how this might happen?and there is a small hole (missing piece) right under terminal 3 (power terminal).
That is usually caused by the tension being lost on the female terminal in the connector. There is supposed to be spring tension in the female terminal that pushes on the male terminal when it's inserted. When the tension is lost the male terminal can move inside the female causing arcing which in turn causes heat. The heat in turn causes the resistance to rise which in turn causes more heat, and you end up with enough heat to melt the plastic.Upon further examination of this small hole right under terminal 3 on the bottom side of the male connector end, it appears this was caused by the connector melting in this area.... Any theories on how this might happen?
Yes - I had the same thought. On the new coil (that I had to return but another is coming) the male terminal was securely attached to its tab and does not have any wiggle room, just like the original. There is a definite click when I put the female end in the old coil. There doesn't seem to be any damage to the female end. The only way I can see tension being created is if the female end butts up against an orange gasket inside the male terminal and compresses it a bit before it clicks into its slot. Maybe this orange gasket lost its compression ability. I'll check and see if there is wiggle room on the old coil with the connectors connected. In either case I think this is the problem area.The worry is if the new coil comes with the connector secured to the bracket you wont be able to move that connector around to the same degree which might lead you to think the problem is fixed when perhaps it isn't.
The click will be the locking device on the plastic connector shell, the thing that holds the two halves of the connector together. That has nothing to do with the terminals. You could remove all the terminals from both shells and they will still click when you push them together.There is a definite click when I put the female end in the old coil.
When I pull on the wires on the female end the terminals don't seem to move; they seem pretty tight. Other than plugging in the new coil I'm not sure what you are suggesting then.The click will be the locking device on the plastic connector shell, the thing that holds the two halves of the connector together. That has nothing to do with the terminals. You could remove all the terminals from both shells and they will still click when you push them together.
Exactly. That is the root cause of your problem, not the broken connector on the coil.However in the 12V slot it goes all the way to the end and can be wiggled around in the slot - no resistance.