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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, need your help in identifying these symptoms, could it be a battery voltage related issue?

Symptom no. 1: Whenever I brake slightly harder than usual and come to a complete stop, my RPM falls under 1000 for a split second and the car feels like its engine is going to shut down

Symptom no. 2: Whenever I accelerate a bit quicker than usual, my A/C compressor turns off and turns on after a second or two. The same thing happens when I am reversing.

Symptom no. 3: If I am listening to music at a high volume, the braking seems to take longer than usual and I have to push the brake pedal a bit deeper to make it stop.

Any ideas? :crying2:
 

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#1 sounds like the torque converter lockup is not releasing properly.
Has it been more than 60K miles since the transmission fluid was changed?


#2 is normal, to get better acceleration.


You can get a voltmeter that plugs into the power port (formerly called cigarette lighter socket) to monitor batt voltage.
Should stay 13.5-14.5V during operation.
 

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Are these new symptoms for you? What's the history of the vehicle? Bought new? Original battery?
Best practices for requesting help:


* If you haven't done so fill in your vehicle info and profile page. Shows up to the left
* Be sure you are in the correct forum for your vehicle.
* Do a search for your problem. A lot of stuff has been asked and answered.
* Do not double post for the same problem.
* Give the model year....Engine size...transmission type (auto or standard)
* VIN number can be very helpful.
* Did you buy the vehicle new, if not, how many miles were on it when purchased? How many miles on it now?
* Describe the problem the best you can.
* Tell us what has been tried, if anything.
* If the vehicle has been to a repair facility it would be nice if you can scan or take picture of the bill and attach it to the post.
* If your vehicle is under warranty you should have the dealer check it out. If it's an issue they see many times they will generate a safety recall or do a TSB. This is how they know.


This information can save a lot of time and get you the answers you need much faster.


Thanks,
Welcome aboard.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
#1 sounds like the torque converter lockup is not releasing properly.
Has it been more than 60K miles since the transmission fluid was changed?


#2 is normal, to get better acceleration.


You can get a voltmeter that plugs into the power port (formerly called cigarette lighter socket) to monitor batt voltage.
Should stay 13.5-14.5V during operation.
#1 I think I have never got the transmission fluid changed. I am current running at 90,000 miles. When I went for my previous service, the guy told me the transmission fluid needs to be flushed/replaced cos it looks dark. (I couldn't check physically)

I often don't bother because "flushing" anything in the car doesn't seem safe to me. I have heard it has ended up ruining the vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are these new symptoms for you? What's the history of the vehicle? Bought new? Original battery?
Best practices for requesting help:


* If you haven't done so fill in your vehicle info and profile page. Shows up to the left
* Be sure you are in the correct forum for your vehicle.
* Do a search for your problem. A lot of stuff has been asked and answered.
* Do not double post for the same problem.
* Give the model year....Engine size...transmission type (auto or standard)
* VIN number can be very helpful.
* Did you buy the vehicle new, if not, how many miles were on it when purchased? How many miles on it now?
* Describe the problem the best you can.
* Tell us what has been tried, if anything.
* If the vehicle has been to a repair facility it would be nice if you can scan or take picture of the bill and attach it to the post.
* If your vehicle is under warranty you should have the dealer check it out. If it's an issue they see many times they will generate a safety recall or do a TSB. This is how they know.


This information can save a lot of time and get you the answers you need much faster.


Thanks,
Welcome aboard.
Vehicle was bought new in 2013. Got it serviced at the authorized dealer until 60000 miles. Battery is original. History of the vehicle? Its been 6 years now so it's gonna take a while... :frown:
 

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Vehicle was bought new in 2013. Got it serviced at the authorized dealer until 60000 miles. Battery is original. History of the vehicle? Its been 6 years now so it's gonna take a while... :frown:
Forget about the transmission. We need to start with the basics and go from there. Your title has MUCH relevance. Voltage.....that battery needs to be replaced. Don't get it checked with an electronic battery tester, even good ones have their problems. A carbon pile is the only way to properly test. That being said due to it's age it needs to be replaced. Not worth trying to squeeze another few months out of it. It'll only create headaches latter on. Get a battery and make sure you clean the cable ends good and install it and see what we have after that.
We'll probably need to clean the throttle body and possible plugs and such but let's do the battery first and take it from there.
 

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I often don't bother because "flushing" anything in the car doesn't seem safe to me. I have heard it has ended up ruining the vehicles.

Don't flush, just drain and refill.
Every 30k miles is a sensible interval.


Considering how hot it is in UAE I'd consider a 5 year old battery past due for replacement.
I wouldn't bother to even test.
Lead-acid batteries in high heat can test fine today and die tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don't flush, just drain and refill.
Every 30k miles is a sensible interval.


Considering how hot it is in UAE I'd consider a 5 year old battery past due for replacement.
I wouldn't bother to even test.
Lead-acid batteries in high heat can test fine today and die tomorrow.
I will try replacing the transmission fluid after getting it checked if it has gone dark.
Regarding the battery; its been less than a year but this was a replacement under warranty for the previous one, so there's no more warranty on the current battery. :p
 

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There's no need to replace a battery unless it won't start your car anymore. If it can start your car, then your problem is something else and you're wasting your money replacing it.
 

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I agree with grcauto's advice...replace the battery...a battery that old can cause numerous symptoms/problems...I had one that recently failed to start the car...no advance warning or hard to start problems...it was approx a 5 1/2 yrs old original battery....
 

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Don't be replacing batteries until you know the voltage the system is operating at. It may be a bad alternator. A cheap plug in voltage monitor is worth it's weight in gold.
 

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Don't be replacing batteries until you know the voltage the system is operating at. It may be a bad alternator. A cheap plug in voltage monitor is worth it's weight in gold.
Why would you want to try and get another week or two out of a battery that will leave you stranded by doing just that?
It's time for a new battery.
 

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Why would you want to try and get another week or two out of a battery that will leave you stranded by doing just that?
It's time for a new battery.
Maybe a week or two or a month or two or another year or two. Batteries are generally good until they aren't and new ones can fail just like old ones.



No sense replacing good parts, it's always a good idea to find out what the problem is before you replace parts.



If the voltage is above 14 vs right after starting and 13.8v when driving the alternator is good.


Replacing batteries on a time scale is like like buying gas with no gas gauge........
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Why would you want to try and get another week or two out of a battery that will leave you stranded by doing just that?
It's time for a new battery.
The battery is less than a year old. And the other functions don't give any indication of a battery issue (Ignition start is perfect, lights are all good..)

Maybe a week or two or a month or two or another year or two. Batteries are generally good until they aren't and new ones can fail just like old ones.

No sense replacing good parts, it's always a good idea to find out what the problem is before you replace parts.

If the voltage is above 14 vs right after starting and 13.8v when driving the alternator is good.

Replacing batteries on a time scale is like like buying gas with no gas gauge........
I agree. It could be the transmission fluid, I will be passing by the mechanic soon and will get this checked.
 

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Vehicle was bought new in 2013. Got it serviced at the authorized dealer until 60000 miles. Battery is original. History of the vehicle? Its been 6 years now so it's gonna take a while... :frown:
The battery is less than a year old. And the other functions don't give any indication of a battery issue (Ignition start is perfect, lights are all good..)

First you say it's original at 6 years and now it less than a year. Might help if you didn't contradict yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
First you say it's original at 6 years and now it less than a year. Might help if you didn't contradict yourself.
Sorry. My bad, mixed up the info.
I am the first owner of the vehicle.
The battery was changed around 10 months ago under warranty.
 

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Sorry. My bad, mixed up the info.
I am the first owner of the vehicle.
The battery was changed around 10 months ago under warranty.
What's going on with it now?
 

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Sorry. My bad, mixed up the info.

Actually, you straightened it out in post #9.
I wouldn't replace a 10 month old battery either without thorough testing.
Otherwise you run the risk of damaging another new battery
 
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