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Hey guys, I wanted to create another thread on this topic since its different than my other topic, but its still related:

I am having starter issues, and I think this battery terminal might be whats causing it. Even if not, its so corroded that it needs to be replaced (see picture). I have tried sand paper and baking soda, but the terminal is just beyond ate up and beyond repair - the bottom metal strip that wraps around the post was actually broken before it was even taken off the post.

In any case, I have tried to loosen the nuts holding the two wire into the terminal, but they won't budge. So I'm thinking of just splicing a new wire/terminal kit (see attached photo #2) onto it and just cutting off the old connection, since the corrosion is probably into the tops of the wires anyway.

I just want to inquire about rather these splice kits will work for this application?

I have attached picture of the cables from the positive side of the battery that need fixed...

Just not much of an electrician, can't afford to have it taken to a shop, and can't find any good way to get that old positive terminal cables off...
 

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They'll work fine if the female is the right size for the cable. You may want to just replace the cables. Depending how much slack (usually not enough) to cut the bad off. You need to cut the cable to the point where there isn't any corrosion. You will need to cut the insulation and see how far it's corroded inside. The thing about corrosion on the copper wire is the sulfides react with the copper and change it's electrical properties. It won't conduct as well and will drop more voltage under load. Heat does the same thing. If a vehicle is having starting issues where it takes several seconds to start the cables will get warm both the + and -. The same amount of current is going through them both. With a prolonged starting problem the cables develop resistance and the voltage drop across them during high current (when starting) will be such that it's like having a weak battery. A brand new cable will drop a few tenths to a half volt or more during starting. It's easy to test. Just put your meter across the cable and have someone crank it and you'll see.
 

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baking soda is way not enough. You will need acids to get shinny connectors. I used muriatic acid for quick fix, then sprayed battery terminal protector.

It's good idea to replace terminals, but removing terminal nuts maybe difficult. I just used impact gun and was super easy. You can use long water pipe for longer leverage, but for nuts on the cable may spin. Once the old terminals get cleaned it should be enough
 

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I would regard the removal and replacement of the battery terminal as vital to the reliability of electrical system.

To remove the terminal, try the following:

have the correct size wrench on hand to fit the terminal nut or if the nut is out of shape, use a self locking wrench.

Wear gloves and eye protection and pour boiling water over the terminal and then try to remove terminal nut. If the nut comes undone then problem solved and if the nut breaks off insert an old screwdriver between the terminal and spread it and then remove terminal.

NOTE: the pressure applied to the terminal may cause a crack around the battery terminal resulting in the escape of battery acid fumes that will cause corrosion but judging from the condition of the battery the damage may have been done already.

Ensure new cables are correct current rating and all splicing is secure and correctly insulated. Carry out resistance and voltage drop test on new wiring
Hope this info helps.
 

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baking soda is way not enough. You will need acids to get shinny connectors. I used muriatic acid for quick fix, then sprayed battery terminal protector.

It's good idea to replace terminals, but removing terminal nuts maybe difficult. I just used impact gun and was super easy. You can use long water pipe for longer leverage, but for nuts on the cable may spin. Once the old terminals get cleaned it should be enough
Acid to remove corrosion that is caused by acid?
An impact wrench or breaker bar for a battery terminal?
I wouldn't want you to work on a toy car.
 

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Yeah, I thought a long length of water pipe to crack loose those M6 nuts was a bit excessive too :laugh:
 

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Acid to remove corrosion that is caused by acid?
An impact wrench or breaker bar for a battery terminal?
I wouldn't want you to work on a toy car.
Yes acid can remove acidic corrosion, to be more specific, Fe2O3·nH2O. I think it's high school knowledge that no matter which type of corrosion, they are always oxides. I prefer muriatic acid it takes seconds to remove rust.

I just used impact wrench to loosen the nuts to prevent spinning, like 0.2 seconds
 

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Yes acid can remove acidic corrosion, to be more specific, Fe2O3·nH2O. I think it's high school knowledge that no matter which type of corrosion, they are always oxides.



What oxide is the corrosion on those cables?



I prefer muriatic acid it takes seconds to remove rust.


You think the corrosion is rust?

You know less about chemistry than how to fix cars. Where did your reactions pick up iron (fe). What happened to the Chlorine atoms in your reaction. Muiratic acid is nothing more than HCL which is hydrochloric acid which burns off the Cu which you want to save. You cost people time and money with your nonsensical comments.



I just used impact wrench to loosen the nuts to prevent spinning, like 0.2 seconds


I'm stunned. Absolutely stunned.

You should not be allowed out of your bedroom.
 

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You should not be allowed out of your bedroom.
Ok they are lead or copper, but no matter what they are HCL is the fastest way to clean, that's how factories do acid washing. Dilute HCL eats metal really slow, cause less damage than wire brush. I just said what I have done and they worked great. If you have better idea just let me know. If you don't know how to leave non-offensive comments then shut up
 

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Ok they are lead or copper, but no matter what they are HCL is the fastest way to clean, that's how factories do acid washing. Dilute HCL eats metal really slow, cause less damage than wire brush. I just said what I have done and they worked great. If you have better idea just let me know. If you don't know how to leave non-offensive comments then shut up

Your lack of knowledge is surpassed only by your ignorance.
 

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I hope you have gotten a new battery as the one you had is a massive leaker. Take care when handling or tightening the terminals so as not to torque the post and beak the seal.

I would not worry so much about rust as it is still electrically conductive. It's the powdery sulfate deposits that really stop the flow of juice. But the protective plating is ate off the metal so the corrosion will be hard to stop leaking battery or not.

I use ammonia for cleaning off the corrosion followed by a rinse of water. Much less damaging than acid.


Have you considered a new cable from the dealer?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I hope you have gotten a new battery as the one you had is a massive leaker.

Have you considered a new cable from the dealer?
Haven't gotten a new battery yet. As bad as it looked here, it seems to test well - holding 12.6 volts, and 11.4-11.9 volts under a starting (or attempting starting) load. It needs one though - the battery has not been changed since I got the car back in late 2013, and hard telling how long it had been in there before that. That is the next plan for replacement.

I tend to avoid dealer whenever possible due to cost. Looks to me like a dealer original part would require the entire starter wiring harness, which I can't imagine is very cheap OEM. Plus the nearest dealer is about an hours drive away.

Rained yesterday so I wasn't able to do any more testing, but tonight I'm getting under the vehicle to the starter terminals and make sure they are getting the needed juice. If they are, then I can pretty much pinpoint the starter - if not, then I'll need to look at the wiring.

Seems like a lot is starting to go wrong with the car... Fuel pump went out a week ago, intermittent turn signal issues started around same time as fuel pump, and now this no-start/single-click issue.
 

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You can get dealer parts online discounted. But if you don't get a new battery the same thing will happen. Leaking at the post seems to be a US battery problem.
 

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You can get dealer parts online discounted. But if you don't get a new battery the same thing will happen. Leaking at the post seems to be a US battery problem.

Agree with what you say. Leaking at battery posts is not unusual in the UK and Australia and is generally caused by careless or ill-informed people using incorrect tools or using correct tools incorrectly.
 

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Was impossible to test the starter on the car with the heat shield, so I just took the starter off... Going to test the starter tomorrow with the jumper cables and see if its performing correctly, and if so proceed to check the current to the 'B' wire end and the 'S' wire end.

Question for you guys though: when I shake the starter it rattles - is that normal? And shaking the starter forward and backward causes the engagement wheel to freely slide in and out...
 

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Was impossible to test the starter on the car with the heat shield, so I just took the starter off... Going to test the starter tomorrow with the jumper cables and see if its performing correctly, and if so proceed to check the current to the 'B' wire end and the 'S' wire end.

Question for you guys though: when I shake the starter it rattles - is that normal? And shaking the starter forward and backward causes the engagement wheel to freely slide in and out...


Not normal. The starter pinion and clutch are pushed forward with the starter solenoid acting on a fork to engage the ring gear on the engine flywheel and the fork is located by a pin in the starter housing allowing the fork to pivot and move the clutch and pinion forward to engage the ring gear.

Suggest starter be stripped down and inspected.
 

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Agree with what you say. Leaking at battery posts is not unusual in the UK and Australia and is generally caused by careless or ill-informed people using incorrect tools or using correct tools incorrectly.
Coat all the exposed lead and copper with grease and it'll prevent much of this.

I hope you understand I'm talking about nice clean posts and terminals.
 
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