Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 2009 NF with 2.4L and A/T is at 103,xxx miles. Handling feels a bit "mushy" although all four corners appear to respond well when I perform bounce tests of struts/shocks. I also hear some rare thump noises when I make turns. So one of the things that I am thinking about doing as funds and time permit is updating the suspension. The only thing that's relatively new there is rear sway bar links -- rest is original. I had an annoying thump noise in summer 2016 and after getting them replaced, it went away. So I should be all set with those but that's it. (Oh and it was also pretty easy to do which was a big plus.)

I'm thinking about starting with updating end links and bushings on the front now. Visually, it did not seem that any boots were torn or links deformed in anyway -- just rusty. What is the expected improvement after replacement? I'm thinking that the ride will be more controlled and the "thump" when turning will be gone. Any thoughts?

As to brakes... After a recent lug stud replacement (done by a shop at Discount Tire's expense because DT tech was at fault), I noticed odd noise from the front when braking. Looked at the rotor... there is a huge spot on the surface that comes in contact with the pad. More than likely from tech hitting the rotor really hard trying to get it off -- the thing has been there for a long time without having need for replacement. Anyway, I'm considering replacing pads and rotors on front and rear. Will likely do brake fluid flush too. Any thoughts about caliper maintenance? I remember several forum members mentioned buying re-sealing kits at some point. Would appreciate part numbers and suggestions for how to reseal a caliper.

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
If you think the condition of engine, transmission and steering rack are great, and ready to spend thousands of dollors on it, go for it, otherwise just drive until it dies

Some common issues of this model: front upper control arms, lower control arms, struts and shocks, lower ball joints, wheel bearings, motor mounts, engine timing chain tensioner...

you can replace all fluids first, transmission oil, coolant, power steering fluid, and brake fluid. For brake pads and rotors, don't touch them unless pads are too thin.

Since you live in rust belt, check if any of wheel is lower than others, that may indicate that the coil spring is broken and becomes shorter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
If you think the condition of engine, transmission and steering rack are great, and ready to spend thousands of dollors on it, go for it, otherwise just drive until it dies

Some common issues of this model: front upper control arms, lower control arms, struts and shocks, lower ball joints, wheel bearings, motor mounts, engine timing chain tensioner...

you can replace all fluids first, transmission oil, coolant, power steering fluid, and brake fluid. For brake pads and rotors, don't touch them unless pads are too thin.

Since you live in rust belt, check if any of wheel is lower than others, that may indicate that the coil spring is broken and becomes shorter
The vehicle is in good shape given the mileage. I'm not interested in spending a fortune on it. I hope my original post didn't make it sound like I was. :) Mostly looking to improve handling a bit and get rid of some noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,327 Posts
Doing sway bar end links are a good thing with your miles but unless the originals are really worn they may not improve things too much.
If you have not replaced your struts I suggest you do so.
Given the miles on the car your struts are done.
The bounce test does not work on modern strut suspensions like it did on the old leaf spring suspensions.
As for struts, I would go with some KYB struts as they are inexpensive and are great quality.
If your pads and rotors are thin I would replace the pads and if your rotor are damaged you can get a complete setup from R1 Concepts at a decent price.
I have a set of R1 rotors on my 2002 Altima that have about 160k on them and they are still great.
http://www.r1concepts.com/
For your calipers all you really have to do is make sure the slide pins are clean and have fresh grease.
If the slide pin boots are torn or cracked then it would be best to replace them when you do the pads.
This is especially important in rust areas as road salt can get into the pin cavities and cause them to rust and stick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Doing any suspension work on a 10 year old car from the rust belt could open a can of worms from all the rusted fasteners. The job you think will take an hour could take all day when you have to torch or cut off nuts and bolts, not to mention replace the now damaged part attached to it you didn't expect to have to replace.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Doing sway bar end links are a good thing with your miles but unless the originals are really worn they may not improve things too much.
If you have not replaced your struts I suggest you do so.
Given the miles on the car your struts are done.
The bounce test does not work on modern strut suspensions like it did on the old leaf spring suspensions.
As for struts, I would go with some KYB struts as they are inexpensive and are great quality.
While I think the bounce test may still be helpful to diagnose completely blown shocks/struts, it is quite possible that mine are on their way out due to mileage. I'm 99% sure that I'm on original factory struts and shocks.

I'm with ya about KYB's. I usually use them and kind of like a stiffer ride which is what they usually result in (esp. as you compare to worn shocks of course).

Question about springs... I don't think I've ever replaced anything more than struts/shocks and strut mounts. Should springs be replaced? I do not think they are damaged in any way and I was under the impression springs usually outlast struts. What made me second guess this is that Monroe has several NF Sonata-specific quick-strut kits and I believe I've read of other forum members performing the replacement of both struts and springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Doing any suspension work on a 10 year old car from the rust belt could open a can of worms from all the rusted fasteners. The job you think will take an hour could take all day when you have to torch or cut off nuts and bolts, not to mention replace the now damaged part attached to it you didn't expect to have to replace.
Yeah, I'm afraid of that also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
While I think the bounce test may still be helpful to diagnose completely blown shocks/struts, it is quite possible that mine are on their way out due to mileage. I'm 99% sure that I'm on original factory struts and shocks.
Replaced the struts on my 06 at 292,000 miles just to help sell it, but in reality, the ride was still acceptable to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,327 Posts
While I think the bounce test may still be helpful to diagnose completely blown shocks/struts, it is quite possible that mine are on their way out due to mileage. I'm 99% sure that I'm on original factory struts and shocks.

I'm with ya about KYB's. I usually use them and kind of like a stiffer ride which is what they usually result in (esp. as you compare to worn shocks of course).

Question about springs... I don't think I've ever replaced anything more than struts/shocks and strut mounts. Should springs be replaced? I do not think they are damaged in any way and I was under the impression springs usually outlast struts. What made me second guess this is that Monroe has several NF Sonata-specific quick-strut kits and I believe I've read of other forum members performing the replacement of both struts and springs.
Unless your springs are damaged they should be fine for the life of the car.
People use the quick struts because it's much easier than having to compress the spring and move it to the new strut and you get a new strut mount in the process.
Installation time is cut down substantially as is ease of installation.

Also, if a strut is leaking it is bad and should be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Unless your springs are damaged they should be fine for the life of the car.
People use the quick struts because it's much easier than having to compress the spring and move it to the new strut and you get a new strut mount in the process.
Installation time is cut down substantially as is ease of installation.
Right, too bad KYB does not extend its Strut-Plus program to this application. While I haven't written Monroe off yet, I'll probably re-use existing strings but will get new KYB struts/shocks and KYB or other branded strut mounts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,327 Posts
Right, too bad KYB does not extend its Strut-Plus program to this application. While I haven't written Monroe off yet, I'll probably re-use existing strings but will get new KYB struts/shocks and KYB or other branded strut mounts.
One of my sisters used to have a 2008 Sonata that I replaced the struts on and it made a huge difference in ride quality.
No more wallow over bumps and it felt much more stable during cornering.
Not long after I did the suspension work someone hit her and totaled the car.
She bought a 2014 Sonata and I know I'll be doing the struts on that car soon. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,063 Posts
I bought some "Detroit Axle" spring+strut all in one piece - It was for my TG Azera but it's the same part for the NF Sonata - I would not recommend. Way too mushy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I bought some "Detroit Axle" spring+strut all in one piece - It was for my TG Azera but it's the same part for the NF Sonata - I would not recommend. Way too mushy.
Thanks for the input. I found so many "brandless" struts/shocks/etc for the Sonata (as well as Azera, Optima and other "relatives"). They are often half the price of Monroe and KYB parts. Reviews are either nowhere to be found or are mixed. Those parts are probably popular with used car dealers that are trying to flip cars quickly and cheaply?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,063 Posts
Thanks for the input. I found so many "brandless" struts/shocks/etc for the Sonata (as well as Azera, Optima and other "relatives"). They are often half the price of Monroe and KYB parts. Reviews are either nowhere to be found or are mixed. Those parts are probably popular with used car dealers that are trying to flip cars quickly and cheaply?
Yeah, I would not go with DA. lol it's been about a year on my TG and it's so bad now. I just would stay away. The only thing you would save on is the fact that it's a spring/strut already assembled. Might save you some time on install there and you wouldn't have to compress the OEM spring...but honestly, I would just fork out the fee for a professional shop to do it and get you some KYBs...my original KYBs on my NF Sonata (about 5 yrs old, are still good as new)...I just have my coilovers on it so that's the only reason why I am not currently rockiing the KYB. For daily driving replacement...I would go with KYB.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top