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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hopefully someone can explain/help with this issue. My 2012 Elantra has always had an impressively powerful air conditioner system. I can make the kids complain that it is too cold on a hot Lousyana day. I had read the stories of the A/C being affected by a software update but paid it little mind.

About 4 months ago, just as it was getting unbearably hot again down here, I took my E to the dealer to get the mileage read for the gas reimbursement program and, while there, I figured let them do the latest recall that was out there, some ECU software update. All seemed to go well, until the first real hot day.

So here I am, leaving work on a hot, sunny afternoon where the interior has baked at about 135 deg. F. In the past 6 years, no matter how hot the interior was, the A/C was very aggressive with the air blowing cold out of the ducts within seconds of getting the car moving with the revs up. Clearly the compressor started turning the moment the A/C was turned on. I am NOT confusing the interior latent heat with the air coming out of the A/C system. Obviously, it takes a while to cool off the hot interior. But in the past, the A/C was blowing cold pretty much immediately. This time the air blew hot/ambient out of the ducts until I had been driving for perhaps 30 seconds. This freaked me out as I figured the A/C had failed. But then, suddenly, the compressor seemed to turn on and viola, I had powerful A/C. This scenario now repeats almost daily. Sometimes with a delay of a minute to a minute and a half, as if there is something in that software update that refuses to engage the compressor’s clutch until some unknown condition is met. But always (at least so far) the A/C eventually comes on and stays on and is its usual powerful self.

So, what is going on? Does anyone know? I have owned this car since she was brand new and she never did this before this last visit to the dealership. Was there some code in that update that affects when the compressor can turn on? Why? Something else going on?

Thanks.
 

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My guess would be they have put the delay in to remove some load off the electrical system immediately after engine start to allow the alternator to put some energy back into the battery more quickly. Basically, they've changed the operational logic of the smart charging system.

Maybe @sbr711 will have access to the recall paperwork issued by Hyundai though and can tell us the real reason for the change?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought about that, but the delay varies quite a bit. I have not timed it, but I'd say it can be as short as 20 seconds and as long as two minutes. I guess your theory could still hold true if it were based upon some battery voltage. My greatest fear is that this is a sign of some impending compressor failure......
 

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My guess would be they have put the delay in to remove some load off the electrical system immediately after engine start to allow the alternator to put some energy back into the battery more quickly...

This is not a hybrid right?
That being the case, wouldn't it make more sense to keep the blower off or on low than the turn the AC clutch or valve off? The clutch coil or valve coil likely isn't much more than an amp, but the blower on high is probably over ten amps.
 

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my 2013 does the same thing after the upgrade. My dealer said that this is a change in software and you might also notice that after the car is turned off for 3 to 5 minutes, the engine cooling fan cycles for 10 seconds. all normal with newest firmware.
 

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Wow, that's garbage. There's no need to delay the onset of the A/C compressor. When the system first starts and blows at Max the engine will rev slightly higher to keep the alternator powering everything. I have seen my car do this time and time again. It's a 2013 and I live in phx, I would be very aware if the A/C was cutting out unexpectedly.

Have you verified whether or not it's the compressor that won't turn on, or could it be your radiator fan? There have been many complaints with a software update where the radiator fan won't kick on when it should.

BTW, as long as it's not too windy out and you're wearing sandals, you can easily verify whether or not the radiator fan is running by just opening your driverside door and putting your foot down on the ground (no need to pop the hood). You should feel the fan blowing from underneath the car. This way you can feel the cold air from the vents and the radiator fan blowing at the same time.
 

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I hadn't thought about the extra current for the engine cooling fan, assuming that engine temperature was not otherwise requiring it to run at high speed.


Around here, I would find it unacceptable if I had to wait several seconds for the AC to start actually working.
 

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I hadn't thought about the extra current for the engine cooling fan, assuming that engine temperature was not otherwise requiring it to run at high speed.


Around here, I would find it unacceptable if I had to wait several seconds for the AC to start actually working.
Fun fact, there's 2 radiator fan speed on these cars, low and high. Low speed is typically what the radiator fan blows, for both A/C and removing heat from the engine. I've only seen the car jump to high fan speed when the A/C demand is much higher.

Only when it's fair weather out will you see the radiator fan sometimes not turn on when the A/C is on (but it will cycle on and off every 10 or so seconds).
 
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