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Discussion Starter #1
It is single digits and below zero wind chill. My first cold weather with this vehicle. Noise does go away.

WARNING: Might not want to use headphones.

 

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Likely chains and tensioners caught up with you... most of the first 2 yr production had tensioner - chain rattle at cold start.. a bunch got done warranty,, until Hyundai cut labor on job over 50%,, so we quit looking for them in hopes that only show up as customer took concern to noise.. still see 1 or 2 a yr anymore... seen one where fella would not buy the job,, he ended up trashing the engine when chains finally jumped enough to wreck engine

If you was local, I'd do it for $500 labor,, you buy all the parts and leave on front seat.. But I am hiding...
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Likely chains and tensioners caught up with you... most of the first 2 yr production had tensioner - chain rattle at cold start.. a bunch got done warranty,, until Hyundai cut labor on job over 50%,, so we quit looking for them in hopes that only show up as customer took concern to noise.. still see 1 or 2 a yr anymore... seen one where fella would not buy the job,, he ended up trashing the engine when chains finally jumped enough to wreck engine

If you was local, I'd do it for $500 labor,, you buy all the parts and leave on front seat.. But I am hiding...
That first video was starting it after 9 hours of sitting, second time it turned over. Got home waited four hours and tried to start and it really did not want to turn over this time, the time when it does start is because I hit the gas. Still likely the timing and tensioners?



 

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It started right up this morning, no loud noise. It is (or feels) a few degrees warmer outside today.

I also noticed that the temp gauge on the dash stayed at C for longer than usual when it started with the noise. Today the gauge went normally how it does to just before the middle line.

I did install a new alternator, about 2 months ago. I also took out 2 spark plugs recently to see their condition (and need to fix valve cover leak) and put the same ones back in, I torqued them to spec.
 

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Have you got enough oil in the engine? Also might have a blocked pickup. There sounds like both timing chain and hydraulic lifter noises. When cranking you can hear a low compression cylinder.
 

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To add to ^ ,how many miles are on the engine and has it been well taken care of ? Are you using conventional or synthetic? On a cold start,a top tier synthetic oil will get through your engine quicker than mid tier oils and much quicker than conventional and synthetic blends. Consider switching if you are using the latter oils. There is more to oil than just lubrication.
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Have you got enough oil in the engine? Also might have a blocked pickup. There sounds like both timing chain and hydraulic lifter noises. When cranking you can hear a low compression cylinder.
^ this

oil level? oil spec? oil age?

sounds like oil is not getting around fast enough
To add to ^ ,how many miles are on the engine and has it been well taken care of ? Are you using conventional or synthetic? On a cold start,a top tier synthetic oil will get through your engine quicker than mid tier oils and much quicker than conventional and synthetic blends. Consider switching if you are using the latter oils. There is more to oil than just lubrication.
Bought the car in March 2017 with 96070 miles now have 97400. Carfax had previous owner do regular oil changes at dealership. The car dealer I bought it from had an oil change/filter (checked oil when I was first looking to buy it) and new air filter put in. The window decal says next change due 98xxx miles.

I checked the oil last night, with engine cold and it was full and light brown. It looks good, at least from what Ive seen online that it should look like. I'll take pictures of what it looks like and post here.

I have some 5 qt jugs of Mobil 1 5w20 Full Synthetic High Mileage oil which I was going to use after I did the valve cover seals and put in new plugs (when or if the weather lets up)
 

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what weight oil is recommended for your engine in your part of the world?

something like 5w30 or 0w30 or similar

and what is the EXACT Mobil 1 oil you have
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what weight oil is recommended for your engine in your part of the world?

something like 5w30 or 0w30 or similar

and what is the EXACT Mobil 1 oil you have
Sorry, forgot that part. I have 5w20 recommended by Hyundai in the manual and on oil cap.
 

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I would be willing to bet the dealership used conventional oil.Good choice going to synthetic on your part. Are you using the High Mileage oil because the valve covers are leaking? Once you replace the valve cover gaskets,you may not need the High Mileage oil. If that is the reason and you like Mobil 1,once the HM oil is used up,consider going to Mobil 1 EP as it is better oil.

I posted and then saw your post on the 5W20 HM oil you have. Their 0W20 HM oil is the best choice between the two in more than a few ways imo.
 
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I would be willing to bet the dealership used conventional oil.Good choice going to synthetic on your part. Are you using the High Mileage oil because the valve covers are leaking? Once you replace the valve cover gaskets,you may not need the High Mileage oil. If that is the reason and you like Mobil 1,once the HM oil is used up,consider going to Mobil 1 EP as it is better oil.

I posted and then saw your post on the 5W20 HM oil you have. Their 0W20 HM oil is the best choice between the two in more than a few ways imo.
as above - garage used cheap oil

you should replace with what you have or better still 0w20 and save the 5w for summer
Just using it because it says it is for cars with over 75000 miles, I was surprised because I think 97000 is low mileage (at least for 11 yr old car). High mileage I think 200k.

I was going to do 0w20 but read it is really thin and will leak even more from the valve covers.

Here is a video of my oil. It also started right up this time, no noise. I wonder if not driving it often can be an issue too. It only gets about 5 miles a day, majority of the time it is not running more than 30-45 minutes a day.

 

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nice video - buts tells us nothing

not sure if you understand what oil spec is

won't bore you too much, but simply put.....

the first number is how liquid the oil is at ambient temp

the second number is how liquid it is at operating temp

so a 0w20 and 5w20 will be the same 'thickness' at operating temps, but the 0w will flow easier at startup temps - which is what you want when it's cold

also, given you only travel 5 miles, that is bad for engines. they love being up at operating temps. i doubt you even get to that point in your temps and over such short distances. your oil is going to degrade relatively quickly. you'll also likely get condensation in the oil which is also bad.

not sure what your oil change regime is now, but if i were you, i'd be buying fully synth 0w20 by the bucket and changing oil and filter every 3000k's or so.

my 2c
 
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