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Did you have the thermostat TSB performed? new thermostat and new thermostat housing is replaced for the TSB. since you changed thermostat already get the housing is this TSB was never performed. you need to follow the correct procedure in regards to installing thermostat. Once installed its important to bleed air from the system using yellow bucket, or an AIR LIFT tool. you can use external laser thermometer in conjunction of using an OBD2 generic scan tool to see Coolant temp. Monitor Live data viewing coolant temp and checking thermostat housing temp to verify correct input (within few degrees). smooth steady data stream via tool indicates good working sensor as long as the external is in the same area.

Also make sure there are no leaks. make sure rad cap is clean and working correctly.

link to yellow bucket tool. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

I attached TSB for you. read and see how thermostat is correctly installed. Also use search function on forms. Many things have been covered and reported verified fixes. This car is almost at the decade mark, so by this point many things have been covered already.
 

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Seems as if you run the engine with the rad cap off and a funnel lowered into the radiator to let trapped air to escape.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks for all the replies. I read the TSB, it looks like that only applies to 2011's, mine is a 2012. The system has been bled properly, and there are no leaks.
I ordered the new ECTS. I'll let you know what happens.
 

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Thanks for all the replies. I read the TSB, it looks like that only applies to 2011's, mine is a 2012. The system has been bled properly, and there are no leaks.
I ordered the new ECTS. I'll let you know what happens.
why throw parts at the car? you can verify ECT is working with scan tool (generic obd2 will do) like i mentioned. you can even manually check sensor with basic voltage meter that does resistance.

Make sure thermostat is installed correctly with right orientation as described in TSB. Have had many "comebacks" because techs cant follow instructions...
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I just changed the ECT. The wiring and plug looked fine, so after 183K miles, I'm hoping it was just the ECT going bad.

why throw parts at the car? you can verify ECT is working with scan tool (generic obd2 will do) like i mentioned. you can even manually check sensor with basic voltage meter that does resistance.

Make sure thermostat is installed correctly with right orientation as described in TSB. Have had many "comebacks" because techs cant follow instructions...
I know where you're coming from on throwing parts at a problem. But in this case it was a cheap part ($12 for the OEM part to my door). Considering its age, and it was pretty easy to install, it was worth doing.

I oriented the t-stat correctly, it's key'd so to speak, and the bleeder positioned at 1 o'clock.

So now I wait. Thanks everyone for the help!
 

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I just changed the ECT. The wiring and plug looked fine, so after 183K miles, I'm hoping it was just the ECT going bad.


I know where you're coming from on throwing parts at a problem. But in this case it was a cheap part ($12 for the OEM part to my door). Considering its age, and it was pretty easy to install, it was worth doing.

I oriented the t-stat correctly, it's key'd so to speak, and the bleeder positioned at 1 o'clock.

So now I wait. Thanks everyone for the help!
Since you have the old sensor out. Why not bench test it with a multi meter and a cup of hot water? Takes ten minutes to verify the functionality of the part.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Since you have the old sensor out. Why not bench test it with a multi meter and a cup of hot water? Takes ten minutes to verify the functionality of the part.
3 reasons. First, I'm just not that interested in that degree of troubleshooting. Since I already replaced the stat, I'm feeling pretty confident the ECTS was bad. Second, I have a hundred other things to get to (just ask my wife). So I would rather move on to some of those. And third, the "intermittent" factor. Things aren't always black and white. Sensor works...then doesn't work...works on the bench...but not in the car. I've been there.
 

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3 reasons. First, I'm just not that interested in that degree of troubleshooting. Since I already replaced the stat, I'm feeling pretty confident the ECTS was bad. Second, I have a hundred other things to get to (just ask my wife). So I would rather move on to some of those. And third, the "intermittent" factor. Things aren't always black and white. Sensor works...then doesn't work...works on the bench...but not in the car. I've been there.
Fair enough. General rule of thumb in this industry. Especially when the MFGS provide detailed specifications and repair procedures like Hyundai (and very well I might add) does it to actually follow the flow chart which someone provided there is no guess work. A 128 can be diagnosed with a multi meter and a generic obd2 tool and takes 15-30 minutes to actually diagnose where the fault is. The provided PDF diagnostic procedure gives you the full list of the variables that would set this fault and can be certified with freeze frame data from a generic scan tool.

Since it's an intermittent problem the only way you know if it's actually fixed is by verifying a faulty part. So why not take a multi meter and check the resistance and compare it to the chart provided. As it literally takes 2 minutes to test the sensor out of the car. When Hyundai released the tsb it was because the cars weren't heating up fast enough because of the t stat and housing and revised those parts. When these cars were coming in the majority of them were coming in during the winter months when it was cold out side. Out of probably 50+ 128 codes for this specific model.. I never had to change an ect sensor. Is it a possibility.. of course but not probable.

As we are heading into warmer weather theoretically you could possibly not know if this is resolved till next winter.

Hope it's fixed OP
 
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