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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,

i just picked up my first Hyundai as a winter vehicle...a 2007 Santa Fe GLS (manual transmission) 94k miles. Drove it home 622 miles home without issue from another state. During the drive home ran into a section of delayed traffic on the freeway... where there was stop and go traffic. i noticed after this that it was getting harder and harder to get the tranmission into gear. Almost like the clutch pressure plate was not fully releasing. The "point" at which it felt the clutch disengaged was also closer to the floor.

Now that it is at its new home...this morning i went out to see if the issue was still there. It was actually worse. i could not get the gear selector out of gear with clutch fully depressed unless i turned the motor off. i checked the brake fluid reservoir (shared with the clutch master cylinder) - full... no evident problems there.

Just on a hunch i tried pumping the clutch pedal a bunch of times.

Now all of a sudden the clutch is back to working like normal.

i wonder if there is some sort of leak in the clutch hydraulic lines causing an air bubble?

Any other of you CM folks run into this?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yes, fluid level in the braking reservoir (shared between clutch master cylinder and brake system) is just fine.

The thing is... i am not sure how a Hyundai clutch pedal is supposed to feel. It just depresses but there isn't much feeling to it. I just push it to the floor and i can shift. On my VWs there is a distinctive point at which i can feel the clutch release.

There's no fluid leakage under the vehicle (slave is a concentric type from what i understand and is mounted in the bell housing. i took at look at the clutch master cylinder in the engine compartment - not leaks there.

There is an elbow of some sort containing a damper mounted inline between the master cylinder output and the line itself. Do these fail often? i am not sure what else to call it?

Is fluid level good?
 

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That's exactly what it is a damper. All clutches feel the same and as you depress the pedal you should feel the lighter effort at about 2/3rds the way down if the clutch plate has a good lining thickness. As they wear they require more effort to disengage and you don't feel the lighter effort when it's almost worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah... thanks. i wonder what the innards of the "damper" look like. Spring loaded diaphram like on a fuel pressure regulator? If they start to leak/fail what are the symptoms?

Honestly though the clutch is so light (ie in terms of effort to depress it) that i can push it in by hand. Are they supposed to be this light in effort?

That's exactly what it is a damper. All clutches feel the same and as you depress the pedal you should feel the lighter effort at about 2/3rds the way down if the clutch plate has a good lining thickness. As they wear they require more effort to disengage and you don't feel the lighter effort when it's almost worn out.
 

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You could bypass that damper with a M16 x 1.50 and washer.



And if you just want to replace that damper unit which is not kept as a separate part but want to save a small fortune order Mitsubishi / MOPAR , MR319469


Inevitably though I think clutch wear also plays a part in this as I know a couple of people who've done a replacement to resolve it as well. Not isolated to just your car also on our i30 FD and GD series
 

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I still think your problem is the master cylinder. Dampers start leaking and loose fluid but that's not your case.
 

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I had the same issue in my i30, fixed most of my issues, I believe the internals (spring)can go weak on that damper, I'd bypass it at least, I've read a few endless stories where master/slaves and multiple bleeds have not fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Might not be a bad idea to replace the master and bypass the damper while doing it. Thanks for the advice and pn.

i wonder if it would also be beneficial to separate the system from the brakes... ie give it its own hydraulic fluid reservoir?

As an aside. Whilst driving this back home... i had to go through a toll plaza... and i noticed the attendant did a double take while i was paying when he saw that the SUV was a stick lol. Are there a lot of these Santa Fe with manual trannies? The reason i bought this thing - a friend of mine had a "CM" (although 3.3 litre) and i always liked the way it looks, but he said it didn't come in manual transmission... but when i found out it did... i jumped on it. It was quite difficult after my Ford Ranger 4WD/manual transmission/Supercab died to find a vehicle with a manual transmission to replace it. Thankfully i found this.
 

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Might not be a bad idea to replace the master and bypass the damper while doing it. Thanks for the advice and pn.

i wonder if it would also be beneficial to separate the system from the brakes... ie give it its own hydraulic fluid reservoir?

As an aside. Whilst driving this back home... i had to go through a toll plaza... and i noticed the attendant did a double take while i was paying when he saw that the SUV was a stick lol. Are there a lot of these Santa Fe with manual trannies? The reason i bought this thing - a friend of mine had a "CM" (although 3.3 litre) and i always liked the way it looks, but he said it didn't come in manual transmission... but when i found out it did... i jumped on it. It was quite difficult after my Ford Ranger 4WD/manual transmission/Supercab died to find a vehicle with a manual transmission to replace it. Thankfully i found this.
When you take that damper out, the left leg will need recalibration, engagement can be harsher if you're a little on the release.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i think i would like it being it a bit harsher as i'd like to feel what the clutch is actually doing. Right now... no feeling at all. i'm definitely not used to it coming from my Jetta GLX VR6.

When you take that damper out, the left leg will need recalibration, engagement can be harsher if you're a little on the release.
 

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i think i would like it being it a bit harsher as i'd like to feel what the clutch is actually doing. Right now... no feeling at all. i'm definitely not used to it coming from my Jetta GLX VR6.
Not sure if you'll get much more feeling, it could simply be a bit tired. My clutch is but I just noticed a little more shock on engagement and not as soft with the damper. I subsequently put a new one in, that Mits part but at the time it got to the point on a hot day that I could not get it into gear. That has not happened since and I did bleeds. My car has a very low bite point just off the deck., marginally better now and driveable. Ultimately I think it needs a clutch kit. A work mate also had clutch grabbing straight off the deck. Only has 100000Km on it, similar design to mine but next gen car, I asked how the pedal was after the clutch job and he said back to normal.
 

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Interesting and useful thread, thanks rvborgh. Have you tried the threaded plug replacement for the damper? Cheap fix if it works!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i'm in the process of purchasing a bunch of parts for my Santa Fe right now... this week was new tires, etc... but the plug is on my list.

Thankfully after pumping things twice as mentioned above the pedal going to the floor issue hasn't reoccurred... but i plan on replacing that plug this summer after i can work on the car. SF drives really well now.

Mine didn't go completely to the floor btw, but down far enough that i could not engage/disengage the clutch unless the motor was off. Not fun.

Interesting and useful thread, thanks rvborgh. Have you tried the threaded plug replacement for the damper? Cheap fix if it works!
 
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