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Have had some issues with some intermittent clunking when I shift or let off the gas. It only clunks when shifting from 1-2 or 2-3 or when I am btw 1500-2500 rpms and let off the gas to coast a bit. There are times when it won't clunk at all or it does it all the time, I can shift fast or slow doesn't matter. The dealership I bought the car from couldn't find anything wrong on my last service. Also when I put the clutch in sometimes I hear a bit of a clunk as well. Also I notice moving the shifter from gear to gear when shifting feels very notchy, but most of the times its smooth. Would like peoples thoughts.
 

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Well got my car in today, and found out my axles were loose. Dealer tightened them up and things seem good for now.
 

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I asked the dealer that question and they had no answer for me. Anyways shifting gears and such feel much smoother now too. I hope this fixes the issue, so far so good.
 

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I asked the dealer that question and they had no answer for me. Anyways shifting gears and such feel much smoother now too. I hope this fixes the issue, so far so good.
Interesting. Hopefully your car is just an anomaly and not a statistic.
 

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same thing happened to me, I think the washers that were between the cv shaft and the trans were the problem. Definitely scary, esp since I made a 500 mile trip the day before I found out. The dealer said there was a TSB out on it but i couldn't find it.
 

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I asked the dealer that question and they had no answer for me.
Glad the dealer "fixed" the "loose axles." What really bothers me is that they had no answer how the axle(s) got loose in the first place.
 

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I am having this issue with my 2012 Elantra Touring. When you say a Lose axle, do you mean the fix is to tighten the Axle Nut? Does anyone have more details on what the fix is?
 

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I am having this issue with my 2012 Elantra Touring. When you say a Lose axle, do you mean the fix is to tighten the Axle Nut? Does anyone have more details on what the fix is?
We use a steel washer and different nut that self locks.
 

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Torque the axle nuts. make sure they are staked, as some weren't from the factory. oops!

If that doesn't solve it, either A. get some new axle washers in there, or B. take the axle out of the hub, apply high pressure grease to axle-hub mating surfaces, and reassemble.

done.
 

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Torque the axle nuts. make sure they are staked, as some weren't from the factory. oops!

If that doesn't solve it, either A. get some new axle washers in there, or B. take the axle out of the hub, apply high pressure grease to axle-hub mating surfaces, and reassemble.

done.
First year production into 2012 I think it was used a plastic washer between face of CV joint to back side of wheel bearing.. they get deformed and chewed up,, tighten axle nut is a "cover up" until plastic gets destroyed,,, replace the plastic washers with the steel part,, then you can tighten axle stub nut and not have to worry about it
 

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First year production into 2012 I think it was used a plastic washer between face of CV joint to back side of wheel bearing.. they get deformed and chewed up,, tighten axle nut is a "cover up" until plastic gets destroyed,,, replace the plastic washers with the steel part,, then you can tighten axle stub nut and not have to worry about it
Interesting... Perhaps I shall take a peek at my washers this weekend when I lift her up to replace lower torque mount. Signs like it'd be well worth the time.

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
 

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Interesting... Perhaps I shall take a peek at my washers this weekend when I lift her up to replace lower torque mount. Signs like it'd be well worth the time.

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Pic is from YF Sonata, but UD/MD is similar set up





 

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If fixing the cv axles didn't work and you still have a clunking noise or rattle consider your front struts. One way to diagnose... Push on the front of your car on right side, then left near the tires. If you can reproduce the sound and it's clearly louder on one side than the other you may need new struts. These are replaced as a pair (front right & front left). Very easy to do when you replace the whole strut assembly. Much safer than replacing just the strut using a coil compressor. I just replaced both my front cv axles and strut assemblies for a 2012 elantra manual transmission GLS model at 110,000 miles. The inner cv boots were cracked and leaking grease. And my right front strut was bad. Very easy to do at the same time. Dropping the struts made accessing the cv axles a breeze. My brother makes fun of my "cheap" car but...I'm the one that still owns my car! Maintenance & mechanics are all pretty easy to maintain. Now I just need to replace my non-functioning radio.
 

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My 2015 Elantra (manual transmission) had engine replaced 10 months ago under warranty. Now I'm getting a clunk upon acceleration and slowing down and it went from very rarely to almost every time in the past couple days. I plan to check the axle stub nut torque in the morning. Anyone know the proper torque value?
 
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