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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today while driving my clock/temp went out. After I parked, my remote lock/unlock was not working. At first I thought it was a battery issue in my key fob but then remembered the clock going out earlier while driving. Then it dawned on me that a fuse must have gone out. I checked to see which one was the clock fuse (third one over from the left on the top row, 10A) and saw that my add-a-fuse was in that exact slot that powers my interior LED's. I removed it and put in the original low profile 10A fuse to diagnose if this was the issue and the clock did not come back on. I tried several different fuses with no success. My first question is, what could have been damaged since evidently it is not a fuse? Second, could this be an issue that is not covered if I tell them an add-a-fuse was in there? Obviously I will just not mention it and remove it but what could be the issue here? Thank you in advance.
 

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Check the Room LP10A fuse in the fuse box in front of the drivers knee. Remove the cover and the fuse is found off center and marked yellow with the audio fuse. Pull the little handle and both come out. This fuse could be the problem. If not, check all equipment and determine if any thing else is not working.

Let us know if this is the fix or not. If not, more information is needed. The clock gets power from the same source as the power (DC) outlets in the center console. The room LP fuse is in the control circuit for many things.

Finding the blown fuse will locate the failure area but not the cause, it may come back after replacement.

Bob
 

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If that doesn’t work then try to replace the MODULE 1 fuse (7.5). I had a similar problem my cluster, door locks, windows, rear defrost and your problem had all at once. Took it to 3 Hyundai and they couldn’t figure out the issue, after months of research found it was a bad fuse. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It was the PDM 25A fuse evidently. I had to pull a few out and check until finally the PDM one was replaced and everything came back. The fuse was not visually blown as some had advised me may happen. I kept swapping out fuses one-by-one and turning the key to diagnose which one was blown. Finally found out it was the PDM fuse right above the Yellow bracket holding the LP Room and Audio fuses. I tested it even though it looked fine and it was indeed dead. I'm sure my add-a-fuse had something to do with this but not sure how it did it being plugged into the clock fuse socket. I put two 7.5A fuses in the add-a-fuse instead of two 10's. Hopefully that will keep this from happening again. Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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It was the PDM 25A fuse evidently. I had to pull a few out and check until finally the PDM one was replaced and everything came back. The fuse was not visually blown as some had advised me may happen. I kept swapping out fuses one-by-one and turning the key to diagnose which one was blown. Finally found out it was the PDM fuse right above the Yellow bracket holding the LP Room and Audio fuses. I tested it even though it looked fine and it was indeed dead. I'm sure my add-a-fuse had something to do with this but not sure how it did it being plugged into the clock fuse socket. I put two 7.5A fuses in the add-a-fuse instead of two 10's. Hopefully that will keep this from happening again. Thanks for all the help guys.
Make sure you have the add-a-fuse installed properly. If you install it backwards, both draws come through one fuse first. That could definitely blow the "original" fuse.
 
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