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Discussion Starter #1
Just finishing a major maintenance session on 2003 2.7L v6. Valve cover oil leakage killed the alternator last summer so hasn't been driven much lately (no further than battery charge allowed safe return home). But engine itself was running fine and quietly. Due to uncertain maintenance history of the car purchased last spring, I decided to do the alternator, valve covers, water pump, timing belt, tensioner, serpentine belt, etc,.. for a complete job.

Perhaps I should mention that while not a professional mechanic, I have been twisting wrenches for many years and have overhauled many engines for trucks, cars, and boats. I am the "no-charge" extended family mechanic.. and work outside in the open so progress is often slow per weather and other demands on time. But Hyundai vehicles are new to the fleet so am unfamiliar to some things.

I started by aligning all timing marks first, marked old belt, then transferred camshaft marks carefully to new belt. Now the crank pulley and TB sprocket wheel were frozen together, and had to be removed as a unit, so I could not mark the belt at the crank location. But when the sprocket was placed back by itself, the timing mark was correct and I had been very diligent not to allow any rotation to occur during disassembly. I checked all marks after hand rotating engine several turns, and again a couple of days later as more assembly occurred.

When ready for first start, it started instantly and sounded smooth.. BUT I heard loud clanking and a more subtle background clanking also. I shut it down immediately and rechecked the timing marks -- all were still dead on! After considerable thought, I believe that actual valve clash against the pistons is extremely unlikely, leaving me to consider the belt tensioning setup. While initially mounting the tensioner swing arm, I had noticed that the guide wheel could touch metal if swing arm left loose, but held in running position by the belt pressure on the right side and by the hydraulic tensioner pressure on the left. Thus my thinking is that if the new tensioner was sluggish, the arm could bounce around a bit.

I pulled the tensioner cylinder off, oiled the piston pin slightly, and worked the pin in and out a few time. On install and startup the loud clank is gone, but I still hear a lighter rapid clatter/clanking sound. So again shut it down quickly. Do not see how it be be valves touching at this time, but could the tensioner produce this sound?.

That is the status as of tonight. I guess I could reinstall the old tensioner for a trial. Any advice from the experienced towards determining the source of the rapid clatter? I do not want to run it while uncertainty exists.
 

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So you put a brand new tensioner and pulleys ? Of some reputable brand or no name ? Did you by chance disassemble, clean, lube and reassemble the tensioner arm pivot bolt & bushings there ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for reply. Essentially all moving components were replaced in the project. Weather and time has not permitted real progress since posted above, so situation basically unchanged. Have removed serpentine belt system so that is not involved in analysis of the chatter.

Both metal guide wheels for the timing belt were replaced. The bushing and pivot arm mechanism for the tensioner guide was also cleaned and lubed. The tensioner unit was brand new and has same marking as the one I removed, which was likely original. Bought top-line components as kit from a major supplier.

I did see the lower plastic belt cover can rub the water pump pulley (deep scar marks) so I have installed a rubber washer under its top-center bolt position to give a little more clearance. I believe the plastic cover has warped inwards since new. A minor potential improvement, but does not explain the rapid light clack/chatter. The chatter was reduced following light oiling of the tensioner piston, so maybe a little run time will further improve the smoothness of its operation. No idea of how long it had been warehoused in its retracted position.

Weather is near freezing and raining, with storm (snow predicted tonight or tomorrow) so not sure when I can get back at it - perhaps by Friday. Only way to tell if improvement made is to fire it up, and sure don't dare run it long unless it much improved. I have continued to re-think the actions I took on this project and still can not see any way it could have incurred damage, so tend to believe it must be vibration induced -- just can not see where.

Again, thanks for the response. I continue to welcome any insights as to potential cause or to anything I might has missed/screwed up.
 

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I'm no mechanic but I do know the Hyundai's are well known for a few different sources of clicks and ticks that have driven many insane, e.g. lash adjusters, stretched cam chains rattling against chain guides and the injectors make quite a noise too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just bringing this thread to a happy conclusion, I hope. The weather has cooperated following the snow storm and I made progress. I have run the engine several minutes and driven a few short trials - perhaps 12 miles. It did quiet down a lot. I do firmly believe the tensioner cylinder was initially sluggish allowing the swing arm to bounce about more than normal. The unit may have set in a warehouse for many months/years and become partially gummed up, or whatever, and having oiled the pin and run the engine a while is loosening up. To me the engine seems a little noisier than I remember, but really it has not hardly been run since last July due to the bad alternator and my feeble brain may not truly recall its previous sound.

I changed oil/filter, and added fresh gas to last summer's fuel. Car drives and shifts smooth, and feels very brisk going about the community. So I feel that there is no mechanical engine faults, which was my big initial concern.

A little more to resolve, but I think I have a handle on it. Twice while idling in driveway, codes P1166 and P1167 appeared. Codes never popped up when running road trials. Also when engine revs up it does not slow back to idle speed as quick as it should. I think I have a small air leak in the intake system so will be taking this apart and remounting/torquing the components. I'll clean the throttle body, TPS, and IAC at that time. Once everything is running to my satisfaction, I will install the new camshaft and crankshaft sensors - did not want to muddy the water in the startup following the initial work. Then on to the Sienna timing belt project.

I really appreciate all your responses.
 
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