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Discussion Starter #1
Engine light on at 4000Km

I own the 2014 Santa fe turbo 2.0 litre limited which has 4000 km on it. Within 210 km the engine light came on 3 times. I took it into the shop and they ran a code of P0303 which is a misfire, they changed the coils #2 and #3 and cleared the code. The second time it showed the same code but the shop said it was in the history so that is why the same code came up again. They ran an update ECM? and all was good. Now the 3rd time they tell me no code has come up and can't do anything about the engine (they cleared it) but it was like chasing ghosts. My vehicle runs great so not sure why I am constantly having this issue..to say that I am fed up is an understatement considering that I traded my 2013 turbo in for this one because it caused me issues too. Has anyone else had any issues like this?? and if yes what was done? I know going for an e-test which won't have to happen for about 3 years will flunk if they can't figure out the problem and the staff at this place is not very understanding and runs the other way when I come near the place...thanks in advance
 

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So, after the first repair, they didn't bother to reset the codes? Maybe you should take it to another dealer. Someone else on this forum had the same issue and I think it was a spark plug or piezo injector problem.
 

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I had the exact problem you describe. First they replaced the coil, a month later they simply cleared the code history. A month after that they replaced the fuel injector. finally my engine took a shi* and melted one of the spark plugs and destroyed the other three. I posted on here about it during the summer months. I got Hyundai Canada involved and they told me done of the 2014 2.0T had bad plugs from the factory. I would take it back and tell them to replace your plugs. or do it yourself. it was so bad on mine some of the porcelain was missing from the plug that melted and they had to do a bore scope.
 

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I've also had the Code P0303, Misfire in Cylinder 3 issue. I received the code twice with 1800 to 1900 miles on the car. The car seems to run fine, though twice during cold starts with fairly cool ambient temperatures of around 55 to 60 degF I swore I heard a brief sputter or misfire....very short lived, literally a split second, right at start up. Most people probably wouldn't notice it.

I took it to the dealer and they said there is a TSB on this. They reprogrammed the engine controller and cleared the codes (the TSB is 14-FL-004, but I haven't found any information on it). Since I read about luchin's experience before I went to the dealer and having some automotive knowledge myself, I suggested that they also check the spark plugs, coils, cylinder 3 injector, and do a compression check in addition to the TSB, but they just gave me the "look"...the "we don't like our customers making suggestions look." They only did the reprogramming.

It's been just over a week since they reprogrammed the controller and the code hasn't returned, though I remain skeptical that the problem is solved. I've been using my scanner to check for pending codes daily, but so far there haven't been any. I may pull the spark plugs to check them myself soon, but I want to buy a set of new plugs first in case the originals look bad. Does anyone know what torque should be used to reinstall the original spark plugs after inspecting them, being that these plugs use a crush washer (I think) rather than a tapered seat?

My SFS build date is 3/19/2014.
 

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Not at all surprised a shop wouldn't want to pull plugs and test compression - they have to get paid for work they perform and it's pretty structured how that happens.

You will get a stumble or 2 on a cold start up - multiple injector pulses to light up the cat. Misfires occur it's when they reach a certain threshold that a CEL is triggered - did you see what the TSB is all about ?

The 2.0T uses irridium plugs - these supposedly can withstand higher temps than plat or copper, so if plugs are melting or show heat damage definately an indication of something amiss with the engine usually a lean condition or pre ignition causing high cc temps.
 

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Thanks dtech, it's good to know that the couple cold start stumbles I heard are probably normal, but I haven't heard any of my past cars do that when healthy...though my past cars have all had V6 NA engines with multi-port fuel injection, so maybe that's why it wasn't noticeable with them.

I figured the shop would balk at most of the things I mentioned, but I thought at a minimum they may pull the cylinder 3 plug to check it since it'd be a very quick and simple job with this engine configuration. Given that failing plugs that often destroyed engines seemed to be a problem with some of the earlier 2.0t's, it'd be cheap insurance for Hyundai/Kia to do this. My coworker had to have the 2.0t engine in his Optima replaced after a plug broke and tore up a cylinder wall - car was well taken care of, unmodified, and had around 20k miles.

Anyhow, Hyundai and the dealership must be pretty confident that the TSB fixed it so, for peace of mind, I'll just check the plugs on my own when I get a chance. I didn't get to see any details of the TSB. I spent quite a bit of time searching for it on the internet but didn't find it mentioned anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They did reset the code but said something about the code would still remain in the history. They also wondered if I was using premium gas...is everyone here using premium or just regular gas? I have had no issues of rough driving issues all.
 

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I was running regular gas (Shell 87 octane) when I got both of my codes and have only used regular up until then. I topped off with half a tank of mid-grade (Shell 89 octane) before heading to the dealer. I'll be switching back to 87 on my next fill.

My car runs smooth too. The only thing I noticed were the two slight stumbles (barely perceptible) at cold start that I described above and dtech explained why that may have occurred.
 

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As an fyi a few weeks back took a look at no 2 and no 3 plugs - they were in perfect condition, almost too perfect for 25k miles. No heat glazing but snow white insulators, but a lot of my miles prior to the were high speed on a long road trip.

Regards the TSB you mentioned - I was just curious as to whether it actually changed something in the engine mapping or simply raised the misfire threshold for lighting the CEL.

Unlike some who claim that it's simple to create tuning for a speed density system like the GDI engines use - it's fairly complex to nail it so the engine is responsive, smooth, fuel efficient and operates within it's temp parameters. With turbo charging, use of regular gas with relatively high power out it's not a walk in the park.
 

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Okay, having the same issue as the OP, except a it's a 2013 Turbo and the issue is with a 4 code. The first engine light came one day after driving off of the lot. Was told it had something to do with the hatch not being shut properly on the gas tank, though now, I wonder if they didn't say that in order to avoid the buyer's remorse clause. Especially after reading some of the posts here.


Three weeks later, the engine light was on again. Took it in, they said it was a misfire code for cylinder 4. They pulled the ignition coils(?) and swapped it with the opposite cylinder and there were no issues. All fired correctly. They reset the code and said it was good to go, but to monitor. Two days later, the light was on again.


They performed the same ritual, then said they were going to call Toronto (Hyundai Canada) and get it figured out. Two days later, they received updated code specs, reset the code and said that should fix it.


A month and half later, the light came on again. A day later, it turned off. Another week, and it came on again. This time, it stayed on. I've taken it into the Open Road Hyundai shop in Richmond, BC and they've performed their same switch and check ritual to no avail. A call is in to Toronto for updates.


This is where I am now. The car in the shop, and a call into Toronto.


I have been told the plugs are fine, everything is running fine and they cannot figure out why the computer keeps saying the cylinder is misfiring.


So, that's the story around where I'm at with this car. The question is around what to do? This is the third time (possibly 4, considering the supposed gas tank issue) I've had it in for the SAME issue, getting the same supposed fix. We're at 8300KM on the dial.


On the same theme, this vehicle idles like a tank, especially at start up. As this is the first turbo I've ever owned, I wasn't sure if it is typical.


Additionally, the A/C races - sometimes blowing fast, then slower, then fast... I figured it has to do with trying to maintain a constant set temperature. However, that did not occur in our 2008 Santa Fe Limited, which also had the same system of set temperature.


Anyway, we're at our wits end here. Is this just a calibration and tuning issue? It's not as if these vehicles are cheap, especially the top models. Thoughts, anyone?
 

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I did get P0303 code again about two weeks after they reflashed the computer under the TSB. I was also about 3/4 of the way through a tank of Exxon 87 octane gas this time, after switching from Shell 89 octane (if that even matters). This time, the dealer replaced the cylinder 3 spark plug.

I had a quick look at the plug and it didn't look like anything was horribly wrong with it. The base of the thread and strap were nearly black (liked like it may have been running rich) but the insulator was still bright white, and the electrode looked ever-so-slightly bent so that it didn't line up perfectly with the center of the round pad on the strap. Anyway, they thought it looked odd, so they changed it out.

I immediately filled up with Exxon 89 octane gas after they swapped the plug and the light has been out since (it's been about two weeks). I'm due for another tank of gas, and will be dropping back down to 87 octane once again tomorrow...

The service writer never seems to tell me much unless I start quizzing him, and even then he doesn't seem to tell me much. I also haven't been able to see or talk to the tech that performs the actual work. I think I was lucky to even see the plug, though that went back to Hyundai. When I got home, I took a look at under the engine cover and there are marks on both the cylinder 2 and cylinder 3 coil retaining bolts that weren't there before, so they may have pulled the cylinder 2 plug to compare to the cylinder 3 plug or they swapped coils...but I don't know. I should have marked them before I took the car in.

So is this just a calibration and tuning issue? I have no clue and I'm fighting the urge to dig into the problem it myself. This the first new car I've had and I don't want to be accused of damaging anything; so if the engine gets fragged because they will only take baby steps towards solving the problem, then it's on them...and if that happens, my next car won't be a Hyundai/Kia product.
 

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Here, is what you should do.

Go there again and complain and argue and make them change all coils, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. Then run 1 week of 94 Octane and see if that resolves the issue. This way it if does happen to occur again then they may need to try using a different ECM. If it still happens again then it would appear to be an issue with the block itself. Basically they tried swapping individually and now its best to replace everything and see if it happens again.
 

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Just get rid of the factory sparkplugs. We've read too many stories here that the porcelain comes of and then grinds your cylinder walls resulting in either a broken engine or at least, later, serious problems.

It might be as simple as that they tightened them too fast in the factory. It might be according to their specs, but now they're finding out that there was too much pressure on the porcelain and mostly the 2.0T engines have trouble with that because they run sometimes very lean (due to heavily varying air mixtures thanks to the turbo) and thus hot.

Others recommend to adjust the gap on the sparkplugs , it seems to help to smoothen then ignition and prevent problems. Some people even report better mileage due to less misfires or pre-combustion (or late).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
to update everyone on my situation, it has been awhile since the engine light has come back on...hopefully it will stay off this time...funny thing was when I picked it up last time the service manager said don't worry your light won't come on again...sounded a little suspicious to me, but this coming from the mouth of someone that stated that these forums are not what they are cracked up to be....he said that they could be people with Toyota products putting their 2 cents worth in....yeah right....I think he was just pissed with me because I gave a really bad survey the last time and head office called them on it.
 

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I think he was just pissed with me because I gave a really bad survey the last time and head office called them on it.
The survey is about the only way you get to input your feelings on the service. At least it is starting closer to the top (by using the survey) and rolling down hill.
 
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Are you freaking kidding me.

I really think Agincourt Hyundai sold me a lemon.

The engine light has now come on at 4210 KM's.

My wife said she heard a ping noise like something popped and then the engine light came on.

The vehicle is slight hesitant.

Will have to take it to the dealer tomorrow as she is at work already.
 

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It's not the end of the world. Like any car manufacturer, parts are made by other companies.

While failure rate is usually low, some parts can and do fail. Nature of the beast. That's why they have replacement parts. If a part is bad it's bad. Happens to Honda, Mazda, chev ford on an on..

Cars are sophisticated nowadays, it will even throw a CEL with a loose gas cap!
 

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It is just extremely time consuming.

It only has 4210 KM on the vehicle.

That is pretty bad that the engine light is already on.

The gas cap and be undone and re-tightened twice already and still no change.

Sounds like something major... If it is I am going to make sure they fix it and if it continues to give me trouble they will be replacing it with a 2015 or even 2020 I don't care... Sounds like they sold me what you call a lemon!
 

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calm down. its a CEL, its not like the motor or tranny just seized up on you, mid drive.

things happen. every single car maker will have some if not all cars, that need something readjusted or replaced when new.

people think that with cars becoming more and more "modern", they are becoming more reliable. while the main engine components(pistons, rings,crank, cams, valves, block) have become much more reliable - the rest of the car has actually become LESS reliable.
the more electronics(modules, brains, sensors, relays, computers, screens, etc) and toys that are installed, the more likely something will break/fail/need retuning.
 

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Get a code reader. They are cheap enough anymore. Then at least you have an idea what is wrong.
 
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