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Hi! I am searching for answers to my "check engine" light always being on, no matter how many times I have taken it in to see what's wrong. It always comes back on after a day or two. Also, I am now having major problem with stalling at stop signs, lights, etc., anytime the car starts to slow down or stop. Last night I stalled five times in the street. I would put it in "Park" start the engine, and before I could get into "Drive" again, it would stall out. Any clues? I am tired of taking it in to the dealer, since every time I do, they tell me what they "think" might be wrong with it, and charge me accordingly, but problems remain. Thank you. If I sound a little incoherent, it is because of my frustration. Also, my Elantra is a 1996 model, a station wagon.
 

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There are a few things that can cause the kind of stalling you are describing and could also cause a check engine light.

This is the usual sequence to check:

Faulty 02 sensor

Faulty ignition wires

Faulty Throttle Postion Sensor

Faulty Manifold Pressure Sensor

Faulty Knock sensor

Faulty Engine Control Module (failure of the ECM is very rare)

There are others but these are the most common. I personally lean toward the ignition wires because they are a fairly common problem but the 02 and Throttle Position Sensors also seem to go on a regular basis.

You may also see a check engine light with a fuel system problem if, for some reason the system was not pressurizing properly. That could be anything from a bad fuel pump to a leaking gas cap.

Did the shop you took the car to run a Hi-Scan diagnostic for various trouble codes? If not, you are going to the wrong place because, along with a physical inspection, running a diagnostic should say a lot about what is working and what isn't.

I'm sorry I can't give you anything more specific but form what you are descibing about the kind of service you are getting it sounds like you need to ask soeone to recommend a good mechanic. Given the vehicle's age it should not require a Hyundai specialist to fix.

If you can let us know what has been tried so for we may be able to help.
 

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I would imagine that you have a faulty Crank position sensor, the purpose of this component is to relay information to your ECU in regards to when to prime the pump(initially at start up), and open your injectors and also to fire the spark plug.

Itis a little hard to diagnose over the net so patience is required here.

I can tell you how to check for data trouble codes if you like.

On your diagnostics plug above your right most switch panel, you will see there is two rows of pins, and the plug is in a rhombus shape.

Pin numbers go from left to right, with the wide part of the plug being the top
Left side \_-_/ Right side

The top row (wide row) pin numbers range from 1-8 and the bottom row (shorter row) pin numbers range from 9-16.

You must bridge pin numbers 15(which is on the bottom row) with pin number 4(which is on the top row)
These terminals need to be bridged for between 2.5 and 7 seconds, after the ignition has been turned on. Once the engine light begins to flash you can remove the bridging wire.
Your engine light (MIL) will now begin to flash.
The amount of times it flashes in dicates a number.
For example, if the light flashes 4 times followed by a short pause, then followed by another 3 flashes, followed by a short pause, then followed by 2 flashes followed by a short pause, then followed with 1 flash, then a pause before it repeats the code again, indicates that the code stored in the system is 4321, which can be diagnosed using the workshop manual, which I happen to have.
Once you have written down the code, then bridge the terminals again to give the next code, if the next code is 3333, then you have no more codes in the ECU.
If your first code is 4444, then you have no codes to begin with.

Note: I will not be held responsible for anyone who tries this themselves and as a result causes damage to their ECU. This should be left up to the professionals, however can be useful to anybody if the procedure is carried out correctly.
 

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Thanks for the instructions on checking OBD codes w/o a scanner Dr Hundi. Its probabaly at the max for my personal level of confidence when it comes to messing with the car.

I've also seen references to using a volt meter to read off the pins but I don't know if this tells you more than whether a circuit is live or not - have you done this?

It would be nice if someone came out with a super low cost scanner - just read only - those I've seen start at around $300 and you would probabaly need to spend twice that to get something that you could depend on. I just can't see this technology justifying that kind of cost when basically you are looking at a plug, a box, an LCD and a chip that is no more complex than a pocket calculator

I've also heard you can buy a device that hooks directly to your laptop - has anybody ever seen or used one of these?
 

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My 95 elantra did the same thing consistently stalled. The dealer said the idle was low and raised it. Runs great now but with certain weather stalls occassionally. But raise the idle a bit.
 

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It is quite simple.
The idle should never need to be adjusted. Its set from factory to be where it is for the remainder of the life of the car.
If you are experiencing any idling problems, it is either because your throttle body is dirty, or your ISC valve is dirty or has failed.

There is two ways that your idle can be increased:
1. Adjusting the throttle stop screw
2. Adjusting your idle by-pass valve.

Either one of these methods of adjustment, throw out your base tuning.

As a simple guideline, if your car starts to idle poorly, it is because something has failed or something is blocked or dirty.
By adjusting your idle to sit at the correct RPM, you have only hidden the problem, not fixed it.
 

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I would imagine that you have a faulty Crank position sensor, the purpose of this component is to relay information to your ECU in regards to when to prime the pump(initially at start up), and open your injectors and also to fire the spark plug.

Itis a little hard to diagnose over the net so patience is required here.

I can tell you how to check for data trouble codes if you like.

On your diagnostics plug above your right most switch panel, you will see there is two rows of pins, and the plug is in a rhombus shape.

Pin numbers go from left to right, with the wide part of the plug being the top
Left side \_-_/ Right side

The top row (wide row) pin numbers range from 1-8 and the bottom row (shorter row) pin numbers range from 9-16.

You must bridge pin numbers 15(which is on the bottom row) with pin number 4(which is on the top row)
These terminals need to be bridged for between 2.5 and 7 seconds, after the ignition has been turned on. Once the engine light begins to flash you can remove the bridging wire.
Your engine light (MIL) will now begin to flash.
The amount of times it flashes in dicates a number.
For example, if the light flashes 4 times followed by a short pause, then followed by another 3 flashes, followed by a short pause, then followed by 2 flashes followed by a short pause, then followed with 1 flash, then a pause before it repeats the code again, indicates that the code stored in the system is 4321, which can be diagnosed using the workshop manual, which I happen to have.
Once you have written down the code, then bridge the terminals again to give the next code, if the next code is 3333, then you have no more codes in the ECU.
If your first code is 4444, then you have no codes to begin with.

Note: I will not be held responsible for anyone who tries this themselves and as a result causes damage to their ECU. This should be left up to the professionals, however can be useful to anybody if the procedure is carried out correctly.
Will this method work on a J2 Lantra sportswagon? 1997 model?
 
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