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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone -- I'm trying to do some trouble shooting here with my 2000 Hyundai Sonata. We just replaced the purge valve over the weekend and still we have the Check Engine light. The person working on the vehicle for me was looking in the rear of the car at first and he pulled out a small box in the back that had been seated up in the front of the gas tank. He said that what he thought was the purge valve didn't look like the one I got from the parts store. We wound up running to the dealer who explained that the purge valve goes under the hood up front. My question in my trouble shooting is: what is the proper nomenclature for the box we looked at in the back and the thing that resembled some type of the valve with a gas(?) line running into it? These looked pretty old and I intend to try replacing them but am not sure what they're called in order to look them up online and check prices. I have a Chilton's manual coming in the mail but thought I'd check here too. Thanks for the help!
 

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It's your charcoal canister. Just leave it alone and let it do it's thing. Replace the purge valve under the hood, clear the code.
 

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Canister close valve is located with the evap canister at rear of car,, the job of the CCV is to close the vent during an EVAP self test cycle to allow purge to draw EVAP into vacuum and PCM watch tank pressure sensor for voltage change if there is a leak somewhere (gas cap loose/missing, hole in fill pipe or any other source of pressure leak). When test complete, PCM allow CCV to open and vent the canister again so purge can do it' thing while driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Changed the purge valve but the guy who did the work told me that you can't clear the check engine light (by law?); but if the problem has been corrected, it clears itself?
 

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OBD-II codes do not magically go away, once set in memory for you to find, you have to manually use scan tool/reader to manually clear DTC

If fella attempted repair (part replacement), erase it (DTC) and see what happen down the road..

Being at Hyundai dealer, I can use GDS and got into Software Management, and make car do an EVAP self test and see if it complete with "NO LEAK DETECTED" message.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, the check engine light did come back on so I have to explore this further; one other thing seems to have come up though with the car. When we changed the purge valve canister, we also drained and changed the transaxle fluid. The guy doing the work though only replaced one gallon of fluid and I drove the vehicle a couple of days before realizing from the owner's manual that the capacity was 8.2 quarts. Upon discovering this I put another four quarts of fluid in. Now the problem it's having and I don't know if it's related to the purge canister replacement or the transaxle is: when I start the vehicle and begin to move the car at a low rate of speed, it will cut off (it never did this before). This morning I started it and while it did make it down to the first stop sign exiting my street, when I stopped at the stop sign it cut off. After I start it back up and rev it a few times, it seems to be okay, even though on acceleration it seems to be having difficulty going into second and third gears; after the car warms up this problem seems to go away. Thanks for any advice/help.
 

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Okay, the check engine light did come back on so I have to explore this further; one other thing seems to have come up though with the car. When we changed the purge valve canister, we also drained and changed the transaxle fluid. The guy doing the work though only replaced one gallon of fluid and I drove the vehicle a couple of days before realizing from the owner's manual that the capacity was 8.2 quarts. Upon discovering this I put another four quarts of fluid in. Now the problem it's having and I don't know if it's related to the purge canister replacement or the transaxle is: when I start the vehicle and begin to move the car at a low rate of speed, it will cut off (it never did this before). This morning I started it and while it did make it down to the first stop sign exiting my street, when I stopped at the stop sign it cut off. After I start it back up and rev it a few times, it seems to be okay, even though on acceleration it seems to be having difficulty going into second and third gears; after the car warms up this problem seems to go away. Thanks for any advice/help.
Was the fluid low when you added the four quarts? Did you get the transaxle warmed up by runnning it through all the gears and check the level after it was a normal operating temperature?

You could have over serviced the transaxle which is as bad as having too little fluid. It can blow out seals inside the unit.

The transaxle holds 8.2 quarts when being serviced from being dry. You can not completely empty the transaxle by using the drain plug. Normally you will only get about half the fluid exchanged through a drain and fill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After we originally put the gallon in the person servicing the car dig get me to sit in the car and go through reverse, neutral, drive and checked the fluid level at that time.

But, to be honest, the vehicle seemed to be shifting differently than it had before the fluid was changed (the vehicle has 170,000 miles on it) and when I checked the fluid level on my own, I saw fluid on the dip stick , but not being very car service oriented (but trying to learn) and going from what I read in the owner's manual, I assumed that I should add more. Do you think it's possible to simply drain some of the fluid at this point, or the damage may be already done? Thanks for your advice.
 

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Only way to know for sure is to drain out the xtra fluid.

There is hot and cold markings, dipstick usually says running in neutral as well.

Drain plug on tranny oil pan might be easiest. Could use clean bucket in case you dump too much, top up with used fluid.

Slightly over fill no big deal, a few quarts will wreck it. Pump cavitation from foaming oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for your input Santa06 -- BTW in the worse case scenario and in the event that I have "wrecked it," what would be your "off the top of your head estimate" of what rebuilding the transaxle is going to run me?
 
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