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85 Honda SEI said to change the AT fluid every 30K, 3-4 quarts as I recall, could only use Honda fluid or you will have a ton of leaks. Transaxle like the Elantra but the fill plug had a dipstick mounted to it. Least you could see the fluid so it was clean. Only followed it for the first 100K miles, seemed to be a waste of time, was running perfect at 236K, but the body was a pile of rust.


Daughter-in-law's dad gave her his 2000 Ford Taurus for a wedding present, wouldn't let her get married until she finished college, both my sons and her college car was a disaster, piles of rust and many mechanical problems. But told my son to check the AT fluid, had a front seal leak every 500 miles, dealer wanted $2,000.00 to replace it. Gave it to me, dumped in a bottle of Lucas transmission stop leak. They actually put 265K miles on that car never lost a drop of fluid, never changed it. But like any other road salt car, was a pile of rust.


Had a 72 Ford motorhome, had to change the fluid every 20K because it was turning black, same transmission as used in cars, but a huge extra load.


Experts say the reason why they got rid of the dipstick is users won't pour windshield washer fluid in it, more like a bean counter thing. But if you like to pour in washer fluid, try the oil fill cap, much larger than trying to pour fluid in that thin AT dipstick tube. Change of color is the key reason to change it, just like motor oil, both turn black.
True story I have to say. While studying at college I had to sell my car. Thankfully I spend my money on essay editing service at https://edubirdie.com/essay-editing-service and that helped me to pass my exams. Now I have Hyundai Sonata 2013 and I'm pretty happy with this car.
 

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...and this has something to do with ATF change, sounds a lot like spam!
 

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AT's use to be self contained, only thing left is the planetary gear train, clutches, and the electrical solenoids to turn them on and off. Oh, and that pawl that drops into a gear when in park that can break off if someone bumps you. Die hard user of the parking brake to help save that.

Severe conditions can go as far as 60K miles before replacing your fluid, only thing to check for is for leaks. Normal, add another 100K miles to that number.

New major problems with AT's, software in the ECU if corrupt will end up in major shifting problems, in particular if both forward and reverse clutches are energized at the same time. Others are in poor contacts, what use to be a simple neutral safety switch has many contacts for the different gears, road salt on the transmission connectors, also in ignition and the brake pedal.

Son was told he needed a new $4,000.00 transmission by crooked people when his only problem was dirty contqcts in his neutral safety switch, his dad took care of that in less than 30 minutes.

How you drive can do the most damage to your AT, wear increases by the square of the speed. Vss does have some brains so you can't shift into low gear at 90 mph, but with the earlier ones you could. Ha, can speed up your engine to 15,000 rpm.
 

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As per the service manual procedure , once you refill the transmission, it stats to get the transmission fluid upto a temp of 50-60 deg C. But this must not be full operating temp as I have a acutel ap200 with Hyundai data, and when I pull live data of the transmission control with the fluid temp , after I drive for about 10+ km ..the fluid temp settles around 90 deg C ..

Does anyone have a GDS or equivalent to recheck my data and the fluid temp ?

Thank all


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