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If it is a V6 then you might want to go ahead and replace the Pulley Damper (aka crankshaft pulley) as they separate and fall apart and it is only one more bolt after removing the belt
 

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QUOTE (hyundaikiamaniac @ Jul 23 2011, 01:23 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=480025
I also would like to know with pics if possible. I have a 4cyl. Thanks.

Nothing to really pic... just make a drawing of the belt routing, then do you main work from the wheel well.. Move the spring loaded adjuster and flip the belt off, start then new belt around the P/S pulley, I use couple zip-strip to secure belt to P/S pulley and finish up from there.. after belt on, cut the zip strips.



V6, work from wheel well, I use a 19mm wobble socket on long extension, use it to turn thr spring loaded adjuster, flip belt off, install new belt.. I place new belt over water pump pulley, then stuff a rag in the gap to hold the belt in place while fiddling with rest of belt.

The first 3 pics is of the 2.4L,, the next 2 is for the V6 -
 

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Thank you for the pics. Please help to post a pic of the spring loaded adjuster as I do not know what it is and also please let me know hot to move it like you said... 2007 4-cyl Sonata.


QUOTE (sbr711 @ Jul 23 2011, 04:33 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=480122
Nothing to really pic... just make a drawing of the belt routing, then do you main work from the wheel well.. Move the spring loaded adjuster and flip the belt off, start then new belt around the P/S pulley, I use couple zip-strip to secure belt to P/S pulley and finish up from there.. after belt on, cut the zip strips.



V6, work from wheel well, I use a 19mm wobble socket on long extension, use it to turn thr spring loaded adjuster, flip belt off, install new belt.. I place new belt over water pump pulley, then stuff a rag in the gap to hold the belt in place while fiddling with rest of belt.

The first 3 pics is of the 2.4L,, the next 2 is for the V6 -
 

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QUOTE (hyundaikiamaniac @ Jul 27 2011, 01:35 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=481682
Thank you for the pics. Please help to post a pic of the spring loaded adjuster as I do not know what it is and also please let me know hot to move it like you said... 2007 4-cyl Sonata.

Look at previous post above... first pic in row 1... see the long wrench.. rotate to unload pressure off belt. The wrench is on the tensioner, rotate and unload pressure, flip belt off.
 

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FYI the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) requires a special tool to keep the crankshaft from turning when you try to remove the bolt that holds it on. I made my own, but it took some time. Not really all that easy compared to changing the belt.
 

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QUOTE (leithalweapon @ Jul 27 2011, 03:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=481972
FYI the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) requires a special tool to keep the crankshaft from turning when you try to remove the bolt that holds it on. I made my own, but it took some time. Not really all that easy compared to changing the belt.

Impact knock it right off :whistling:
 

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QUOTE (sbr711 @ Jul 27 2011, 01:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=481885
Look at previous post above... first pic in row 1... see the long wrench.. rotate to unload pressure off belt. The wrench is on the tensioner, rotate and unload pressure, flip belt off.
So when you said working from the wheel well - does this mean I need to remove the tire and wheel well cover? or I can work from the top? Thanks.
 

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Your tensioner work will be done as shown in the pics.. be it 4 or 6 cylinder.. you will need to go up top at some point to get your belt around the pulleys as needed.. 4cyl P/S I zip-strip the belt to the pulley as seen in the pics to keep belt in place while I fumble underneath to finish routing belt and flip back on.

V6 -- I set belt over water pump pulley and use shop rag to pack in over top to keep belt from flipping off while I fumble with belt routing.
 

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hey my man i have a 2011 2.4 how do i change mine this is the 1st time i am attempting to do this i believe i can do it can you help me
 

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Hey my man, I have a 2011 2.4. How do I change mine? This is the 1st time I am attempting to do this. I believe I can do it, can you help me?
Well, I am not anywhere close by to help, but just look at the belt, grab it somewhere and push/pull it and watch for tensioner pulley/arm to move.. put a long wrench on the bolt head for this pulley and move it to be able to flip the belt off.. route new belt and rotate tensioner to allow new belt to flip onto last pulley

Make sure to make drawing of belt routing so you know how to weave it back onto the pulleys in the right direction
 

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I just did the drive belt (accessory belt) on my 2010 Sonata 4-cylinder, using the pictures and information in this thread. I would add a few things in terms of notes, maybe these are self-explanatory or givens, but helpful for some people none-the-less.

First is I put the car on ramps, so I had better access, as you really do want to operate from the wheel well.

Second is that there is a small piece of molded plastic that covers the maintenance window between the belt pulleys and the wheel well. It's purpose seems to be to protect the belt from debris coming from the wheel well, and it is secured by 3, 10mm bolts (two on the top and one toward the front). While, I suppose it's possible that a pro could do the belt replacement without removing this panel, I absolutely could not.

There is a second protective plastic panel underneath the car (it has openings for the oil filter, etc.) that could also be removed, but it is not necessary to remove, as it doesn't add much access at all, and you can move your hand over it where we need to be.

My third note is that the belt tensioner that we have to use to create slack in the belt (to take it off and to put the new one on), has a 17mm head on it's bolt, and you'll probably want to use a closed end wrench, so it doesn't slip off and break your front teeth out when it drops on your face which will be below it. :) Also, you will want to turn it counter-clockwise, in other words, push the wrench towards the front of the car to make slack in the belt. You will need to put some ass into it to move it as far as we need to move it.

Fourth note, is to emphasize a previous post in this thread, make a little drawing or label a photo with which pulley the belt goes over first, then second, third, etc. The pulleys themselves will indicate which way the belt will face; the belt has a smooth surface on one side and a grooved surface on the other, and the pulleys will either be smooth or grooved to mate well.

Fifth note, is that I ordered the Bando belt from Amazon that they say fits my car, and it fit just fine, no concerns (it was about $20, model 6PK2580, 6 Ribs x 2580 mm or 6 Ribs x 101.5 Inch). At first, I thought they sent me a belt that was too long, but I was routing the belt incorrectly. There are times when the belt passes right by itself going in the other direction, which would seem like too close for comfort, but it really does belong like that. That's why I put my fourth note above.

Sixth note - I started the new belt up top around the top-most pulley (which is the power-steering pulley), that way I could manipulate it around the last pulley on the bottom for the last one. You'll need to do the last one AND activate the tensioner in my third note simultaneously, or you will not get the belt on the car, so it's best to have them pretty near one another.

Also, thanks to the previous posters and their excellent info, I did the job successfully, probably took me 45 minutes from the time the car was on the ramps until I got the belt on. Now that I know how to do it and a few tips, I could probably do it again in less than half the time. My biggest issue was thinking I could remember how the belt was routed, having taken some photos, but being wrong (all the photos looked the same, and I couldn't get a good frame of reference).

Anyway, I saved myself almost $200 at the dealer for this work, and I got the satisfaction of having done it myself.
 
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