[MO Knight]

So, I am questioning the wisdom of buying synthetic oil for my '13 GLS. I drive normally, so why not switch over to Dino at my next change (mile r now 12k).

What are your thoughts? Are we just waiting our monkey with synthetic?

 

[sngldad]

I plan on switching back to conventional Pennzoil. I never noticed a increase in gas mileage with synthetic and I cant run extended intervals during warranty.

 

[Easy Rider]

Are we just waiting our monkey with synthetic?

Yes.....and MONEY too.

Real synthetics are almost gone and the "new" ones aren't much better than "conventional" in most categories.

Having said that, it is a hard habit to break.
I still use Mobil 1 in everything I own.

 

[MO Knight]

Yes.....and MONEY too.

Real synthetics are almost gone and the "new" ones aren't much better than "conventional" in most categories.

Having said that, it is a hard habit to break.
I still use Mobil 1 in everything I own.

I hate auto-correct.

Synthetic Oil = waste of money. Not wait of monkey. Wow, I guess I need to take my negative comments on posters' poor writing back . LOL....

So, just out of curiosity, what are your thoughts on current synthetics being no good?

 

[80schild]

I use full synthetic because of the spun bearing issues I keep reading about. Seems like my valves are a bit quieter after cold starts too.

 

[santa06]

Check out BITOG web site and do the oil 101 & 201 courses, great info site.

With a turbo synthetic is mandatory, not optional.

 

[MO Knight]

I read thru BITOG some this evening. My GLS is not turbo. My driving is "normal," and most of my miles are highway in St. Louis. For my first year, I've used synthetic, but now, especially after reading some more tonight, I am thinking my Sonata only needs mineral/dino 5w20, w/OCIs of 5,000 mi. BITOG seems to indicate the main advantage for syn to me would be starts under -20 degrees, which we do not get here.

I have my oil changed, so my cost for syn is >$60, and for dino is appx. $20.

I know. There are other oil threads here, but I did not see any that covered my specific concern.

Anyone with further thoughts on this?

 

[redum1]

I read thru BITOG some this evening. My GLS is not turbo. My driving is "normal," and most of my miles are highway in St. Louis. For my first year, I've used synthetic, but now, especially after reading some more tonight, I am thinking my Sonata only needs mineral/dino 5w20, w/OCIs of 5,000 mi. BITOG seems to indicate the main advantage for syn to me would be starts under -20 degrees, which we do not get here.

I have my oil changed, so my cost for syn is >$60, and for dino is appx. $20.

I know. There are other oil threads here, but I did not see any that covered my specific concern.

Anyone with further thoughts on this?

I do my own oil changes and only pay 29.58 everytime for Mobil 1 syn extended 5w20 and OEM oil filter.

 

[HiDuke]

There was a time when Pennzoil, Quaker State, Kendal and Wolf’s Head meant something. They were made from Pennsylvania crude oil; straight chain paraffin based natural lubricate. Today the names mean nothing; it’s all based on the refining and the additives. Check out the MSDS sheets on any of the oils; you will see they all have similar properties.

As long as you have the proper viscosity range, you will be fine with dino.

 

[SVTfocusO3]

Going somehere and having it changed with synthetic is a lot more expensive.

Buy it at Autozone or such (always on sale) and take it where you go, preferably a HYUNDAI dealer, and they won't bill you for oil and it will be a lot cheaper.

or

Do it yourself.

 

[Mikemu]

I use full synthetic because of the spun bearing issues I keep reading about. Seems like my valves are a bit quieter after cold starts too.

Probably some benefit in real cold climate at startup. Beyond that not sure. My neighbor uses Dodge Caravans for his messenger service. Last one he replaced was still running with 375k on the clock, original engine and Supertech conventional oil every 3k religiously. Go figure.

 

[Easy Rider]

So, just out of curiosity, what are your thoughts on current synthetics being no good?

Who said they are "no good" ?

They are only slightly better than "conventional" formulations and probably not worth the extra money.

For instance, they lack the cold flow advantage of a real synthetic and the exceptional resistance to thermal breakdown too.

 

[cobalts suck]

+1 for syn

 

[New2011sonata]

I read thru BITOG some this evening. My GLS is not turbo. My driving is "normal," and most of my miles are highway in St. Louis. For my first year, I've used synthetic, but now, especially after reading some more tonight, I am thinking my Sonata only needs mineral/dino 5w20, w/OCIs of 5,000 mi. BITOG seems to indicate the main advantage for syn to me would be starts under -20 degrees, which we do not get here.

I have my oil changed, so my cost for syn is >$60, and for dino is appx. $20.

I know. There are other oil threads here, but I did not see any that covered my specific concern.

Anyone with further thoughts on this?

Why are you opting for a 5,000 OCI? Isn't the recommended OCI for the Sonata 2.4L 7,500 for normal driving conditions?

 

[MO Knight]

Why are you opting for a 5,000 OCI? Isn't the recommended OCI for the Sonata 2.4L 7,500 for normal driving conditions?

I have almost thirty years of 3k/3mo in my blood. I'd want to do a couple of 5k OCIs, then have the oil tested on the second one just to make sure.

To be honest, I've been using synthetic (valvoline, mobile) for 11 months, and I've yet to go beyond a 6k mi. OCI. That's one of the reasons I am thinking of going straight dine. I feel like I've been wasting my money with synthetic at those OCIs.

 

[MO Knight]

Who said they are "no good" ?

They are only slightly better than "conventional" formulations and probably not worth the extra money.

For instance, they lack the cold flow advantage of a real synthetic and the exceptional resistance to thermal breakdown too.

Good point. By the way, I went to Walmart today, and there's only a $9 diff between dine and synth. How do these oil change shops justify a $30+ upcharge for synth?

 

[2.0 터보]

I read thru BITOG some this evening. My GLS is not turbo. My driving is "normal," and most of my miles are highway in St. Louis. For my first year, I've used synthetic, but now, especially after reading some more tonight, I am thinking my Sonata only needs mineral/dino 5w20, w/OCIs of 5,000 mi. BITOG seems to indicate the main advantage for syn to me would be starts under -20 degrees, which we do not get here.

I have my oil changed, so my cost for syn is >$60, and for dino is appx. $20.

I know. There are other oil threads here, but I did not see any that covered my specific concern.

Anyone with further thoughts on this?

Where are you buying your oil and filter? $27 M1 Extended @ WM + $10 for a K&N Gold filter @ Amazon.

My opinion is stay with syn oil, it is the life blood of your car. Extra $10 every 5,000 miles is worth it.

 

[New2011sonata]

I have almost thirty years of 3k/3mo in my blood. I'd want to do a couple of 5k OCIs, then have the oil tested on the second one just to make sure.

To be honest, I've been using synthetic (valvoline, mobile) for 11 months, and I've yet to go beyond a 6k mi. OCI. That's one of the reasons I am thinking of going straight dine. I feel like I've been wasting my money with synthetic at those OCIs.

MO, I thought you were concerned about wasting money!

Before you worry about dino vs. synthetic, you need to wrap your mind around the idea that changing your oil at 5,000 miles is a tremendous waste of money. The people who make your vehicle tell you to wait until 7500 miles. They back it up with a warranty.

Also, check out some of the oil analyses posted here on the forum.

Hal

 

[reus49]

With all this said, I'll stick with the Dino every 3k on the Turbo and let the dealer worry about it for $29.95. And it is all in the computer just in case.

 

[Easy Rider]

How do these oil change shops justify a $30+ upcharge for synth?

That's free market capitalism for you.

There is a small justification, maybe.
They buy their "normal" oil in bulk; considerably cheaper that way...... and probably still get the "synthetic" in jugs like we do.