[cheezari]

Hi all, I had been trying to install a remote locking key on my 2016 i10 S BlueDrive and everything was going well until I noticed about an hour after the install was finished that my hazard lights were flashing. The doors were all unlocked but the central locking no longer worked (each door would lock and unlock from the inside normally but I couldn't hear the actuators working at all). I also have no way of opening the boot now, too. The car turns on and drives as normal, but so far I've noticed a lot of other faults in the system:

• The tail lights do not light up but the brake lights and reversing lights work fine
• The front parking lights do not work (and as a result the center console lights do not turn on and the headunit does not dim when the stalk is turned) but the DRLs and dipped/high beam headlights work fine
• The indicators do not work, same with the hazard lights
• The door open sensor does not seem to be working (no light on the dash, interior light stays on even if doors closed) but the electric windows work fine

I have checked all of the fuses within the fuse box below the steering wheel and in the engine bay with a multimeter set to continuity and have found no breaks. The remote lock install was around the passenger door with all the wiring coming from the loom behind the glove box. The unit itself grounded 2 wires when locked/unlocked, which went to a relay back to the door control wire (I can draw out a basic diagram if anyone needs).

I'm not too sure where to go from here in terms of diagnosis. Is there anything you guys would recommend before I cave and take it to be seen?

 

[AUTOSPARK]

I have checked all of the fuses within the fuse box below the steering wheel and in the engine bay with a multimeter set to continuity and have found no breaks.

You should check the fuses with the meter set to DC volts rather than continuity.
Connect the black meter probe to a known good ground/earth. Switch the ignition & headlamps on. Now touch the red meter probe to the test terminals on top of each fuse...see below. If you find a fuse with 12V on one terminal but something different on the other that fuse is blown.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

[cheezari]

If you find a fuse with 12V on one terminal but something different on the other that fuse is blown.

I've double checked and all the fuses show around 14.6V on both terminals with the engine on and 11.9V with just the key in the ignition. The heated mirror fuse is unpowered (this trim level doesn't have heated mirrors), and it was quite difficult to test the "start" fuse so I just replaced it with a known working fuse (to no avail). I don't know how to test the larger fuses in the engine bay but the metal strips within them all look intact.

 

[AUTOSPARK]

I've double checked and all the fuses show around 14.6V on both terminals with the engine on

OK, no blown fuses. Well, that's a shame

Fitting remote locking is usually a straight forward job, so I'm not sure what could have gone wrong. I assume you have tried unplugging the remote locking module to see if that has any effect on the circuits that aren't working? Does the module connect to the parking/tail lights or the turn signal circuits?

I know it's a PITA but if simply unplugging the module doesn't help it might be best to disconnect ALL the remote unit wiring from the car's harness to make sure the module isn't causing the problem. The lighting circuits on a lot of newer Hyundai cars are electronically fused, meaning there are no physical fuses for the lighting circuits. When the electronics sees something it doesn't like with the circuit (the additional load of your locking module for example) it will just switch the power to the circuit off.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

[cheezari]

Does the module connect to the parking/tail lights or the turn signal circuits?

No, it only connects to the door control signal wire.

I know it's a PITA but if simply unplugging the module doesn't help it might be best to disconnect ALL the remote unit wiring from the car's harness to make sure the module isn't causing the problem.

I can confirm that it was incredibly annoying but I unsoldered all the connections to the car and reconnected the two ends of the door control signal wire. I then disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes just in case the BCM needed to be reset to take any effect. Unfortunately nothing has changed.

My thought process now is that the BCM is the most likely culprit. Is there any way for me to diagnose this myself or is the only option taking it in to a dealer/Hyundai? If it is the BCM, can I just buy a second hand unit off eBay or would you recommend getting that straight from Hyundai?

 

[damted]

Hi all, I had been trying to install a remote locking key on my 2016 i10 S

Does this mean the cenral locking unit was not installed from factory and you tried to install an aftermarket central locking module?
What exactly did you add to the car:

• 4 actuators in the doors
• central control module
• remote control

Or is this a standard extension on the car with genuine parts added?

 

[cheezari]

What exactly did you add to the car

Just a remote locking module. The car already came with central locking and had all the actuators but no remote. This sort of thing:

This unit was connected to 12V straight from the battery and output a ground signal when the remote was pressed. The open/close ground signals were then connected to a relay and then to the door control signal wire in the car. It didn't connect to anything else. The thing is, the installation went fine and the whole thing worked for a few times - it was only when I noticed the hazard lights on that I checked it out and realised that tons of things had stopped working.

I've now removed the connections to the car and resoldered the door control signal wire back together but it's made no difference.

 

[damted]

In the workshop documentation I can see that almost everything is controlled by the Body Control Module.

Do you have any schematic how you connected to the car.
From the new control unit you should have 12V output for doors open en also 12V output for doors closed.

Did you also connect wires for the turning lights, because then you put external 12V into the output of the BCM.
To protect that output it is wise to use diodes to prevent current towards the BCM module.

So what helps the most is a schematic between new module and the car.
It looks like you blew up the BCM I am afraid
See the attachment where you can see that the BCM controls everything which is not working now for your car.

 

[cheezari]

Do you have any schematic how you connected to the car.

Thank you for your advice. Here's a rough drawing of the way I wired the unit in:

As you can tell I'm very much still an amateur here! Let me know if there's anything that needs better explaining

From the new control unit you should have 12V output for doors open en also 12V output for doors closed.

The output of the unit is not 12V, it is ground. Connecting the door control signal wires to ground locks/unlocks the door depending on whether the wires are connected to each other or not (which is what the relay is for).

Did you also connect wires for the turning lights

Nope, just to the door control wire.

It looks like you blew up the BCM I am afraid

That is looking more and more likely Your attachment was very useful - I did some reading and I can't quite tell if the fault is in the BCM or the SJB (or the wires leading up to them), so I think the next step for me is to take it in to a mechanic tomorrow and use the GDS for diagnosis.

Do you think there are any other steps I can take to try and narrow down the options? I am still really quite confused as to how anything would have blown to be honest...

 

[damted]

For the close signal you were wise and used a relay to electrically seperate the new unit from the car electronics.
But for the open signal you should have used a relay too, because now the new remote unit is directly connected to the car.
Or at least use 2 diodes to block unwanted current directions!
It's not clear if this signal is just a sensing signal to the new remote unit, or the remote unit pulls this signal to ground?
So in other words:
Is the open signal wire on the remote unit an output or an input signal (seen from the remote unit)?
If it's an output signal I relay is really needed.
If it's an input signal a diode it should be ->| pointing to the remote unit.

But because you disconnected everything and you have still issues with the BCM, that should be solved first.

I tried opening my car with only the key and depening you are turning the key left or right, it opens or locks all doors.
So it looks like the BCM via the keylock contacts in the drivers door senses an open or close signal separately and the BCM acts according to that.
You always have to be sure that only one if these signals (open or close) is active at a certain moment.
So for both signals you can put a relaycontact in parallel to these contacts and activate them by putting 12V on the relay coil via switching the coils to ground.

I think the wiring and signals which comes from the door switches and other switches is using low voltage and low current, because these signals are only input signals for the BCM module in the car.
So you should be very careful connecting any external power or ground to these switches.
Using relays seperate all (galvanic isolation) between new remote unit and the car.

 

[AUTOSPARK]

For the close signal you were wise and used a relay to electrically seperate the new unit from the car electronics.
But for the open signal you should have used a relay too

He did.
The lock & unlock outputs from the remote module come from relays inside the module. The additional external relay isn't really required. I explain how to wire a remote locking module to suit the i20 locking system in THIS THREAD.

I am still really quite confused as to how anything would have blown to be honest...

Me too. I don't think the way the remote unit is wired is the cause of the problem though. But could the damage maybe have been done while you were trying to ID which wire on the car the locking module needed to be connected to. How did you go about doing that?

If your in the Glasgow area I'd be happy to take a look at it for you.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

[cheezari]

THIS THREAD

This is actually where I started everything off (a long read but so educational!). My final result then ended up here which is how I identified the wire without having to check every single one.

I should note that this is not the first bit of tinkering I've done with the electrics on this car, and there are tons of places where I've cut, reattached, rearraged and extended wires. This problem seemed to start just after completing the lock install so I thought my previous shoddy jobs shouldn't be the cause (or it's a massive coincidence). I've also done this exact lock install (with a slightly different eBay remote lock) on a friend's car (same model - i10 MK2) and that worked completely fine too without any of these faults so I am still bamboozled.

If your in the Glasgow area I'd be happy to take a look at it for you

You are an absolute legend and if I wasn't so far away down south in the London/Oxford area, I would 100% take you up on the offer.

I splashed out on the Haynes Autofix manual and I'll try out their diagnostic checks (see the pic) today and take it in to someone with some more expensive kit if that doesn't lead me anywhere.

Thanks for all the advice and ideas. I'll keep you all updated but if anything comes to you in the meantime, please let me know!

 

[AUTOSPARK]

a long read but so educational!

Yeah, that thread was hard work. But I think we got everything he wanted working in the end

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

[bstop]

Try removing the plastic wiring plug from the passenger door frame and see if anything changes. Then plug it in and out a few times as there might be a bad connection in the plug contacts. This could be the cause of your door open signal. I had to do a fair bit of cutting and testing those wires to identify what was operating the door locking and unlocking and no damage was caused. If you only cut the green-black wire and applied an earth you should not have caused any damage.

 

[cheezari]

Try removing the plastic wiring plug from the passenger door frame and see if anything changes.

Unfortunately again, no changes. The hazard and tail lights are still not working.

If you only cut the green-black wire and applied an earth you should not have caused any damage.

Which is exactly why I'm so confused - if I knew what I had done wrong at least I'd have a lot more to go on...

 

[cheezari]

So I ended up taking it to a nearby mechanic with a universal diagnostic tool. He said he couldn't determine the problem itself, but told me there were some old error codes in the ECM that he cleared. Interestingly, he did an actuation test on the central locking which made all the doors lock and unlock, but opening/closing the door locks or turning the key in the door didn't engage the central locking.

He gave me the number of a mechanic with specialist Hyundai kit that might help but the appointment will take me well into next week. Any thoughts on the new symptoms that I can check out before then? It seems to me that the SJB (which I believe is with the BCM in one single unit) and the relays inside are working and outputting the right signals when actuated, but the signal isn't getting to the SJB in the first place. I've tried pulling out the connectors that clip onto the box to see if anything else stops working and all but one seem to affect other components (e.g. headlights, heating, fuel pump). This makes me think this connector (or the wiring that leads to it) is where the fault lies but I have no idea how to narrow it down any further. Tips would be much appreciated

 

[AUTOSPARK]

I don't have any specific info for your model. But on most other Hyundai cars the SJB & BCM are two separate modules.
I assume Haynes Autofix wasn't much help then? Did it not at least show you where the components are located on the car?

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

[cheezari]

I assume Haynes Autofix wasn't much help then? Did it not at least show you where the components are located on the car?

So this is the central locking diagram, where D5-8 are the actuators, E34 is the BCM and E6 is the SJB - the wire I tinkered with was the green/black wire on the right. I tried checking the pins as it asked but this has been more of a job than I could handle as I couldn't tell connector each wire was in, leaving me with about 6 blue wires to check and no idea which one was the right wire.

I also couldn't find the BCM module and the autofix wasn't great at showing me where the parts were, but I found the catalogue on 7zap which pointed to it being by the passenger side here:

I've had a good look around and taken most of the trim off but there's no module there. I did the same on the right hand side as well just incase I had been missing anything but nothing there either. I then started looking around for 2nd hand SJBs just to see if it was worth me getting a part to check if it was the culprit. I noticed my part and other SJBs had a slightly different part number, and mine had IA SJB written while others had IA SJB BCM written on. Don't know if this is significant or means my model doesn't have a distinct BCM unit. It is a base model after all and doesn't really have any fancy features at all so I wouldn't be surprised.

I have booked an electrical specialist for about 3 weeks time quoted for about £80 for diagnostics alone. The 2nd hand SJB is only abour £25 so I might take a punt and try it out even thought the model numbers are slightly off. Is this reasonable or do you think it's best to just wait and see what the diagnostics say?

 

[AUTOSPARK]

Don't know if this is significant or means my model doesn't have a distinct BCM unit.

One way to maybe find out is look at connector 'C' on the SJB. Do terminals 5 & 6 have blue & yellow/Orange wires? If so, according to the diagram, those are the locking control wires coming from the BCM. I'd imagine if the BCM was an internal part of the SJB, those wires wouldn't be there. Connector 'C' is the black connector on the back of the SJB. But you'll need to remove the cover off the connector to see the wiring. Nothing is ever easy

I tried checking the pins as it asked but this has been more of a job than I could handle

Difficult to check the BCM wiring when you can't locate the module. But you can ID which wire is which by the connector terminal number. The Terminal number tells you where on the connector a wire is located...

On larger connectors, like the ones on the SJB, Hyundai help you a little by stamping the terminal numbers on the component. If you look closely into the connector socket you will usually find that the terminal at the end of each row is numbered. The you can then just count in from the end to locate the terminal your looking for.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

[liamsibley]

i had this very problem today!

all of a sudden all of the following did not work: tailgate button, window buttons, hazard light button, indicators, main beams (although side lights worked), internal lock button, rear window heater..

i disconnected and reconnected the battery and everything was fine... not really sure why, but everything reset fine