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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a Hyundai Accent 2012 and yesterday I could not open the door as the key fob would not work or the key wouldn't open the door. The RAC breakdown service opened the door with the wedge tool to unlock it. The 20amp fuse for the circuit had blown. I fitted a new 20 amp fuse and it blew right away as I pushed in the fuse without operating the key fob. Time to start tracing the short to ground on the circuit. Has anybody had any experience with this problem? Is there a common fault somewhere in the wiring that causes this fault? It looks as if there is a plug connector from the harness that comes out of the A pillar into the the driver and passenger front doors, maybe the opening & closing causes the problem. I am going to physically check the wiring from the fuse box and remove the door panels to see if I can see any problems. Its a RHD model and I am having trouble locating a wiring diagram of the central locking system. Downloaded a Haynes Manual online but no luck with a diagram.
 

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I have a Hyundai Accent 2012 and yesterday I could not open the door as the key fob would not work or the key wouldn't open the door. The RAC breakdown service opened the door with the wedge tool to unlock it. The 20amp fuse for the circuit had blown. I fitted a new 20 amp fuse and it blew right away as I pushed in the fuse without operating the key fob. Time to start tracing the short to ground on the circuit. Has anybody had any experience with this problem? Is there a common fault somewhere in the wiring that causes this fault? It looks as if there is a plug connector from the harness that comes out of the A pillar into the the driver and passenger front doors, maybe the opening & closing causes the problem. I am going to physically check the wiring from the fuse box and remove the door panels to see if I can see any problems. Its a RHD model and I am having trouble locating a wiring diagram of the central locking system. Downloaded a Haynes Manual online but no luck with a diagram.
Good day
did you get help with your door? if yes, what was the problem because i am having almost the same problem with my Hyundai Accent 2012. i
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good day
did you get help with your door? if yes, what was the problem because i am having almost the same problem with my Hyundai Accent 2012. i
Hi ,
I removed the multi pin harnesses from the drivers and passenger doors and removed the inner rear door panels and unplugged the door lock actuators. The electrical plugs were showing signs of corrosion and were green so I cleaned them all and protected them with Dielectric grease. I checked the wiring in the doors in the rear doors and everything looked good. I made a test light out of one of the blown 20amp fuses and plugged it into the fuse box with all the door harnesses disconnected and the light lit up so there is still a active short somewhere in the system. I can't find a wiring diagram for it anywhere so its difficult to trace where the wiring goes. I suspect there is pair of relays for the lock and unlock actuators somewhere. I need to do more investigation, maybe remove the fuse box and check it out. Had the car only 6 weeks after buying it from a dealer and he refuses to fix it so I am going through Australian Consumer Protection to get him to fix or refund me costs for the repair. Difficult to get a decent Auto Sparky and could be costly to fix as electrical problems could take a long time to trace
 

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I suspect there is pair of relays for the lock and unlock actuators somewhere.
There is. But the relays don't send power from the fuse out to the door locks when the locking isn't active. The relays output a ground when they are at rest. So a short circuit in the wiring downstream of the relays wouldn't instantly blow the locking fuse. This is base on the assumption that the car has factory fitted remote locking.

Biddy56 said:
electrical problems could take a long time to trace
Yeah, tell me about it:D

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There is. But the relays don't send power from the fuse out to the door locks when the locking isn't active. The relays output a ground when they are at rest. So a short circuit in the wiring downstream of the relays wouldn't instantly blow the locking fuse. This is base on the assumption that the car has factory fitted remote locking.


Yeah, tell me about it:D

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
Cheers for the information, Yes it has factory fitted remote locking. Its difficult to trace it without a wiring diagram as I'm having trouble trying to find any information on it. I was thinking of removing the fuse box and having a look at it and behind it at the wiring. Or just checking the cost of having a aftermarket central locking system fitted.
 

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Its difficult to trace it without a wiring diagram as I'm having trouble trying to find any information on it.
I'll post a diagram tomoz when I fire up my work laptop. I suspect the relays will be on/in the fusebox though. So I'm not sure where a short circuit could develop other than inside the fusebox itself.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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I'll post a diagram tomoz when I fire up my work laptop. I suspect the relays will be on/in the fusebox though.
Best I can offer as far as prints, also the two lock relays are on back of fuse box.
NOTE: This diagram is for cars with body control module (BCM), there is a different one for cars without the BCM, not sure if Biddy56 car has the BCM.
460204

460236

460205
 

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This diagram is for cars with body control module (BCM), there is a different one for cars without the BCM, not sure if Biddy56 car has the BCM.
Thanks for posting the diagram. If the car has factory remote locking it must have a BCM. So that should be the correct diagram for Biddy56 car.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for posting the diagram. If the car has factory remote locking it must have a BCM. So that should be the correct diagram for Biddy56 car.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
Thanks so much, It looks as if the short will be in the fuse box or relays. I'll have a go at removing it so I can have a look behind it.
Best I can offer as far as prints, also the two lock relays are on back of fuse box.
NOTE: This diagram is for cars with body control module (BCM), there is a different one for cars without the BCM, not sure if Biddy56 car has the BCM.
View attachment 460204
View attachment 460236
View attachment 460205
Thanks so much for the diagram, I'll see if I can remove the fuse box to see if I can see any problems or signs of a short. Looks like the short will be in the fuse box or the relays maybe? What and how does the two turn unlock relay work? The car is a 2012 and looks in great condition with 127000 K/M on the clock. Maybe buy my daughter a Toyota next time :)
 

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I'll have a go at removing it so I can have a look behind it.
I'll save you the trouble. There is nothing to see...
460239

Unfortunately the relays shown on the diagram are actually soldered to the circuit board inside the fusebox.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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What and how does the two turn unlock relay work?
I don’t know for sure, but since it only deals with the unlock mode, I suspect it has something to do with one push of remote unlock button unlocks the drivers door, but second push (two turn) unlocks all the doors:unsure:. Or something to do with key operation at drivers door lock.
1627327380901.png click on image to enlarge
 

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If you want to narrow down where short might be, first unplug I/P-F connector on front of fuse panel. Install a new 20 fuse in DR LOCK location. If it doesn’t blow immediately with I/P-F unplugged, the short is not in fuse box but somewhere in the second diagram BCM (2/2).

If it still blows, unplug the I/P-B connector from back of fuse panel. Install another new 20 fuse in DR LOCK location. If it still blows immediately with I/P-F and I/P-B unplugged, then short is most likely relay control circuit inside fuse panel.

If it then doesn’t blow with I/P-F and I/P-B unplugged, you’ll know short is not in fuse panel, but in one of items tied to relay control ground legs leaving fuse panel identified at blue colored I/P-B pins 47, 48, 49 or 52 of first diagram BCM (1/2).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you want to narrow down where short might be, first unplug I/P-F connector on front of fuse panel. Install a new 20 fuse in DR LOCK location. If it doesn’t blow immediately with I/P-F unplugged, the short is not in fuse box but somewhere in the second diagram BCM (2/2).

If it still blows, unplug the I/P-B connector from back of fuse panel. Install another new 20 fuse in DR LOCK location. If it still blows immediately with I/P-F and I/P-B unplugged, then short is most likely relay control circuit inside fuse panel.

If it then doesn’t blow with I/P-F and I/P-B unplugged, you’ll know short is not in fuse panel, but in one of items tied to relay control ground legs leaving fuse panel identified at blue colored I/P-B pins 47, 48, 49 or 52 of first diagram BCM (1/2).
Thanks i'll try that picked. I was able to buy up a used fuse box from a local car wreckers in excellent condition, from a 2012 Accent which was stored in a unit for $70 Australian so I will fit it and see if it works. Thanks so much for your help
 

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