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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Car: 2006 Hyundai Sonata V6 3.3 Liter

Problem: Car makes a single thunk/click sound from starter area when attempting to start, but does not engage yesterday. Today, tried to mess around with battery terminals connections, and now lights are dim and no thunk/clunk when key turned; acts like a very dead battery - but still tests at 12.6 average volts with meter; though, after placing the positive probe on the meter at the area around the wire instead of the post, I’m now getting around 9-10 volts reading there vs 12.6 on the post itself.

Other recent trouble: Fuel pump replaced 5 days ago after failure, worked fine afterwards. Turn signals and emergency flashers also have intermittent issues. Sometimes they work, sometimes they will flash once and then just stop. Thinking it might be a bad relay, but still unfixed as of yet. When they stop working, neither the flashers or the turn signal will work.

I have tried: Checked all fuses and relays, good. Multimetered the battery, 12.4-12.6 volts constant, 11.2-11.9 volt jump when attempting to start the car. Cleaned major corrosion off the outside of the positive battery terminal, but that connection assembly is pretty shot/rusted to the point of being unable to remove the screw without it bending the entire assembly up.

What I think it is: I started thinking the starter. This is not the first time I have had issues with the car giving me a single click. On one occasion is started itself after trying 4 or 5 times. On another occasion it started after being jumped with a handheld charger, but I don’t know if it was the charger itself or the scraping off the corrosion to place the charger on the battery that started it. Another time it started after messing with the positive wire on the battery terminal. All of these occasions were months apart from each other, and the first started probably two years ago.

Now, given the very bad state of the connection assembly to the positive post on the battery - I’m thinking that may be what's causing the problem; but I’m here to try and get some other opinions on what it might be?

So as it stands now: I was going to try and replace the positive connection assembly, but can’t seem to find it at the stores. Looking at autozone and such all I see are battery cable, which don’t look like they have the proper fit to the car and seem to be one long cable. This assembly has a single knuckle connection to the post and then 2 wires are screwed into that assembly that lead to different areas of the car (see picture).

I want to try and replace that assembly on the positive terminal first, and see if that takes care of it before buying a $130 starter - but can’t seem to find the part.

Oh and PS) If you think that terminal looks bad now, it looked a lot worse before the baking soda bath. A lot worse; and no amount of prying will budget either the screw holding the terminal onto the post or the two screws holding the wires in... Attempting to unscrew the post connection just causes the whole assembly to bend up.
 

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Those terminals are a mess. Clean them up. Put a 1/4 cup of baking soda in a cup of water. Use a half gallon plastic milk jug cut in half or something similar. Pull the terminals off and put the ends in the container. It'll fizz a lot. After a minute or two take it out and brush it, mix the soda water and put it back in. Keep doing this until it's clean. brush the battery post clean. When installing coat the battery post and the terminal with grease. This will prevent corrosion in the future.

Have you tried to jump it? An almost dead battery will show over 12 volts on a meter. Need to see the voltage while under load to know how well the battery is doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Used the baking soda trick to the point that it stopped foaming... it will really bad before that, as in literally green gunk coating the entire terminal in a cloud.

At this point, I'm thinking it might be easier to just junk that terminal and buy another one... I'm sure there is a ton of corrosion on the inside of the termianl as well, but the problem is you can't get it off the battery. The screw is so corroded or rusted that when attempting to tightened the terminal from the post, it just bends the terminal near the screw. I'll have to break the terminal to get it off the post more than likely.

It might not be OEM or look all that good, but I think something like this (see attachment) from Auto zone should suffice?
 

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Car: 2006 Hyundai Sonata V6 3.3 Liter

Problem: Car makes a single thunk/click sound from starter area when attempting to start, but does not engage yesterday. Today, tried to mess around with battery terminals connections, and now lights are dim and no thunk/clunk when key turned; acts like a very dead battery - but still tests at 12.6 average volts with meter; though, after placing the positive probe on the meter at the area around the wire instead of the post, I’m now getting around 9-10 volts reading there vs 12.6 on the post itself.
I think reading a difference between post and terminal shows high resistance
Could just need cleaning with wire brush. Positive, negative posts and grounding points

Other recent trouble: Fuel pump replaced 5 days ago after failure, worked fine afterwards. Turn signals and emergency flashers also have intermittent issues. Sometimes they work, sometimes they will flash once and then just stop. Thinking it might be a bad relay, but still unfixed as of yet. When they stop working, neither the flashers or the turn signal will work.
Have no idea. But same thing has happened to me.
To get things working again, I turn on hazards and then off.

I have tried: Checked all fuses and relays, good. Multimetered the battery, 12.4-12.6 volts constant, 11.2-11.9 volt jump when attempting to start the car. Cleaned major corrosion off the outside of the positive battery terminal, but that connection assembly is pretty shot/rusted to the point of being unable to remove the screw without it bending the entire assembly up.


What I think it is: I started thinking the starter. This is not the first time I have had issues with the car giving me a single click. On one occasion is started itself after trying 4 or 5 times. On another occasion it started after being jumped with a handheld charger, but I don’t know if it was the charger itself or the scraping off the corrosion to place the charger on the battery that started it. Another time it started after messing with the positive wire on the battery terminal. All of these occasions were months apart from each other, and the first started probably two years ago.

Now, given the very bad state of the connection assembly to the positive post on the battery - I’m thinking that may be what's causing the problem; but I’m here to try and get some other opinions on what it might be?
Agreed. Clean up battery posts and terminals and grounding points

So as it stands now: I was going to try and replace the positive connection assembly, but can’t seem to find it at the stores. Looking at autozone and such all I see are battery cable, which don’t look like they have the proper fit to the car and seem to be one long cable. This assembly has a single knuckle connection to the post and then 2 wires are screwed into that assembly that lead to different areas of the car (see picture).

I want to try and replace that assembly on the positive terminal first, and see if that takes care of it before buying a $130 starter - but can’t seem to find the part.
If you want to restore it to original then probably dealer item??


Oh and PS) If you think that terminal looks bad now, it looked a lot worse before the baking soda bath. A lot worse; and no amount of prying will budget either the screw holding the terminal onto the post or the two screws holding the wires in... Attempting to unscrew the post connection just causes the whole assembly to bend up.
Just saw pics. Surprised it got that bad and still worked (til now).
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Have you tried to jump it? An almost dead battery will show over 12 volts on a meter. Need to see the voltage while under load to know how well the battery is doing.
I tried jumping it the first night, thinking it was just a dead battery. Several attempts and nothing, still clicked. Of course at that time the headlamps and stuff were full brightness unlike now. Thats why I don't think its the battery - it should have turned over while jumping it I would think... But didn't/.
 

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I tried jumping it the first night, thinking it was just a dead battery. Several attempts and nothing, still clicked.... it should have turned over while jumping it I would think... But didn't
I'm not sure connecting a jump lead on top of that battery terminal would really help much. Especially if it was even worse than it is in the pictures at the time.

To remove the terminal from the post, get a hacksaw and cut the terminal securing bolt just on the inside of the nut, then use a screwdriver to pry it open. If you manage to clean it up on the inside and want to resecure it all you'll need is a new M6 nut and bolt to replace the one you cut. You'd want to get the two cable terminals off and clean under those too. It would be best to remove those first while the terminal is still welded to the battery post.
 

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I tried jumping it the first night, thinking it was just a dead battery. Several attempts and nothing, still clicked.



The two large cables that go to the positive terminal are full of corrosion and they may be restricting current flow.



Of course at that time the headlamps and stuff were full brightness unlike now.



When were they full brightness? During jump?



Thats why I don't think its the battery - it should have turned over while jumping it I would think... But didn't.


NO. The lights can be fine and still only click on start. The starter requires much more current than the lights.

You need to get the cables fixed.
 

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The problem maybe the starter, but terminals still need to be cleaned. You will need acid to clean the terminals contact surface after loosening the bolts. I use muriatic acid, it's the fastest, but battery cleaner is safer. For negative terminal, completely remove the cable, clean both sides. Also clean the 2 ground wires on the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Update to this thread:

Starter is off car... Used jumper cables to test the starter with the car battery - starter engages and spins on it on, don't know if this still means the starter is bad and simply taking it off the engine loosened it up or if its definitely not the starter.

Used the multimeter to test the battery again, showing 12.6 volts across the terminals. Tested with black lead on negative terminal and red lead on starter end of 'B' wire, getting constant 12.5-12.6 volts there... Same test with the 'S' wire and getting 12v or more there when the key is engaged there as well...

Could it STILL be the battery after all this? Perhaps even if its spinning the starter, its not 'enough' when on the car to make it work?

Would running a load test on the battery with a load tester give me more definite results than using a multimeter during cranking? Cause with the multimeter it was showing a drop to about 11.9 volts during crank with the starter on the car.

Could it even be a grounding issue? I'm at a loss.
 

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Update to this thread:

Starter is off car... Used jumper cables to test the starter with the car battery - starter engages and spins on it on, don't know if this still means the starter is bad and simply taking it off the engine loosened it up or if its definitely not the starter.


Did the starter have a lot of torque? If the starter hadn't been over heated it's probably OK.



Used the multimeter to test the battery again, showing 12.6 volts across the terminals. Tested with black lead on negative terminal and red lead on starter end of 'B' wire, getting constant 12.5-12.6 volts there... Same test with the 'S' wire and getting 12v or more there when the key is engaged there as well...



Battery needs to be load tested, just like the starter although I don't think the starter is your problem.


Could it STILL be the battery after all this? Perhaps even if its spinning the starter, its not 'enough' when on the car to make it work?


Take the starter and battery to parts place and have them load test. It's free. Don't keep spinning your wheels on this.


Would running a load test on the battery with a load tester give me more definite results than using a multimeter during cranking?


Answered...


Cause with the multimeter it was showing a drop to about 11.9 volts during crank with the starter on the car.


But the starter was not working right?





Could it even be a grounding issue? I'm at a loss.

Get the starter and battery tested. That needs to be done before going any further.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Does anyone know what the CCA requirement is for this car? I'm taking it its more than 200 CCA?

Update: Took starter to autozone, they tested it and it passed - so I don't think its the starter...

Went out and bought a load tester - the Schumacher battery tester - and I'm beginning the think I see the problem. One hold of the switch, and the needle shot down to the 'weak' yellow right below 200 CCA.

Thing I can't see is why the jump start the first night didn't start it if its the battery...

I can't see what else it could be....
 

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Does anyone know what the CCA requirement is for this car? I'm taking it its more than 200 CCA?

Update: Took starter to autozone, they tested it and it passed - so I don't think its the starter...

Went out and bought a load tester - the Schumacher battery tester - and I'm beginning the think I see the problem. One hold of the switch, and the needle shot down to the 'weak' yellow right below 200 CCA.

Thing I can't see is why the jump start the first night didn't start it if its the battery...
I like to see the battery handle 150 amps and be no lower than 10.5 volts. The tester you have is not like a carbon pile but it's good enough to help. If it tests bad, which it is, then it's bad. The problem with those testers is they may show OK when in fact the battery is not good enough to do the job.
Was the battery charge fully when you did the test?
BTW the CCA rating should be on the battery. I'm sure it's well above 200.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Battery was still reading 12.56 volts before the test after removal of surface charge. The tester itself, when connected, was also reading the same voltage. I don't really have means to charge the battery outside of the car.

Thing that puzzles me is why the very same battery was able to run and engage the starter outside of the car... I don't know much about cars, so perhaps it has to do with the resistance of the flywheel requiring more amps from the starter when its on the car?

Is there a way to test that the batter is fully charged other than with a multimeter?
 

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Battery was still reading 12.56 volts before the test after removal of surface charge. The tester itself, when connected, was also reading the same voltage. I don't really have means to charge the battery outside of the car.

Thing that puzzles me is why the very same battery was able to run and engage the starter outside of the car... I don't know much about cars, so perhaps it has to do with the resistance of the flywheel requiring more amps from the starter when its on the car?

Is there a way to test that the batter is fully charged other than with a multimeter?
The test is not valid unless the battery is fully charged when doing the test. How old is the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
At least 5 years. Got the car in fall 2013 and haven't changed the battery. As for how long its been before that before it was changed, I don't know... Perhaps looking at the battery itself might give some hints to its age, but the labels are pretty bad on it.
 

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OE positive battery cable was crap fron 2006 start into almost 2008,, one of the cables had bad volt drop... find 14+ at alternator lug, and less at battery..

Grounds is crap too,, paint is an insulator,,, not a conductor..

Starter not been common issue on 3.3 / 3.8 LAMBDA,, bt Hyundai replacement is different design with new reshape heat shield in box with starter

Look at label on battery cable,,, -3K111 is the new style cable assembly,, bad part is, yrs ago, you could buy new part for $100 something,,, now retail is close to $300,, but it is multi cable assembly that run from battery post to junction box,, alternator, and starter,, also includes new section of solenoid wire from battery tray to starter solenoid
 
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Does anyone know what the CCA requirement is for this car? I'm taking it its more than 200 CCA?
Usually one rates the battery for Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) and not the car


Update: Took starter to autozone, they tested it and it passed - so I don't think its the starter...
Good. One part that not suspect.

Went out and bought a load tester - the Schumacher battery tester - and I'm beginning the think I see the problem. One hold of the switch, and the needle shot down to the 'weak' yellow right below 200 CCA.
Since most batteries are rated at least 450 CCA or more (usually more)
The needle, shooting down to below 200 CCA, means the battery doesn't provide the rated (or necessary) power (current, amps).
The battery is bad.

Thing I can't see is why the jump start the first night didn't start it if its the battery...
If the battery is really bad and your source for jump starting doesn't provide enough power then it is possible for the engine to not crank and not start
The jump power source has to be stronger than the bad battery and to provide enough current (power) to crank the engine

I can't see what else it could be....
From everything you have said ...
You are correct. Bad battery.
If after changing the battery you see this issue reoccur then it could be a parasitic drain.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
New major turn of events:

Put starter back on car, since it clearly wasn't that... Thought 'what the ****' and decided to give it a go... Started right up. It took about a second to crank over, which probably was because battery was somewhat low after the testing and such... Left it running for about 10 minutes, turned it off.... Reinstalled the radiator fans and engine cover and such... Started it again --- started without a single hitch --- drove it around for about half an hour to recharge the battery, and ran the tester on them again...

Readings: 12.9 to 13.09 volts post-to-post with the car off. Tested the alternator, its in the green range at 1500 rpm... After this test, it started again without an issue.

Now I'm just straight up lost on the cause... Same battery, same crappy positive terminal, same wiring, same starter... Any ideas on where to look next, or should I just hope its fixed? Perhaps it was a loose wire at the starter (the control wire connector locking plastic piece is broken off...), or maybe the act of taking the starter off the car was akin to hitting it with a hammer, and its still an intermittent starter problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
The battery also seems strong.... Ran a CCA test with the tester again after driving it around... Took 3 readings, each time the needle never went below 700 CCA for 10 seconds, and was usually slightly above, hovering somewhere around 750 or so.
 
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