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Here is basic car info:
2004 Hyundai tiburon gt V6 2.7L Manual 6 speed, United States car
Background on car:
I bought the car from the auction. It did not have keys, so the locksmith on site cut a key for it. So I have 1 key that is not the original key. However the key works in doors/trunk/& ignition (now); when the locksmith cut the key he tried it in the door then trunk then ignition, however he couldn't get the key out of the ignition once he put it in cuz it would move in all positions but to the off position. He claimed that due to a dead battery the car probably wasn't letting the key out (makes no sense but ok). Needless to say I finally got the key out once I removed the ignition cylinder and then noticed a tab deal inside the ignition body and when I pushed that tab up and reinserted the ignition cylinder then I was able to remove key and move key to all positions etc.
So battery was dead and the clutch master cylinder was snapped at the clutch pedal. So I put brand new battery in, cleaned the connecter very well, put brand new master clutch cylinder in and fixed the spring that's behind the clutch pedal since that had somehow came off. Refilled the master cylinder and bled the slave cylinder several times. However seemed like after 5 or 6 clutch pumps the clutch would become stiff as ****. So I decided to replace the clutch slave cylinder as well. Turns out though they sold me the wrong slave cylinder, however didn't realive that till way later. But even will the wrong slave cylinder the clutch seemed to work better then with the old one yet still didn't seem correct even after several adjustments on the clutch pedal. But when I try to at least try start the car all I get is 1 click sound from the starter. So I checked connections and fuses and wires. Always still only 1 click. However the part that is weird is when I turn the key to attempt to start I have all power and then once the starter clicks the dash and clock etc go blank for a few seconds or until I turn key off and on again and headlights dim. So I took the starter out and tested the starter with it off the car, starter turned and function like it's supposed to. Yet I took starter apart and cleaned the heck out of it just in case, retested it after I put it back together and worked better yet. So I put it back on the car and still same thing, 1 click and nothing. Attempted to jump starter while installed on the car hoping to bypass the idea that maybe a factory alarm or something is interfering, but jumping it on the car gave the same results of the 1 click and then nothing. So everyone insisted it must be my starter. So bought a brand new starter, installed the starter and what do u know still same results of 1 click and then nothing. So I checked the crankshaft to make sure that it wasn't seized and that I could spin it clockwise without any major resistance and I am able to rotate the crankshaft just fine by hand. After weeks of searching online and trying different things that different blogs have said due to some things sounding like some of my issues I'm still getting no where. There was a spot that said something about the sensor on passengr side and a rubber boot that pushes it down that can interfere, mine is missing the rubber boot to compress the sensor. So to rule that out I disconnected that sensor, still same result, so reconnect the sensor and pushed it down, same result just 1 click when trying to start it. Switched the clutch sensor under the clutch, same result 1 click. I have opened and closed drivers & passenger doors, hood and trunk lids to make sure truly closed. I have disconnected different grounds and cleaned the heck out of them to make sure they r all good. I disconnected the ignition antenna ring deal and cleaned the heck out of that and the connecters and reattached the connectors. I am just lost as to what to try next. Cuz I have yet to get this car started, and all I want to do is get it started so I can see what else needs to be fixed on it or if it's not worth fixing, but I can't determine that till I get it started. There are no codes showing when scanned probably due to new battery is my guess. However my gut feeling is that the key is wrong or not something. Cuz I had watched videos and they show that on hyundai on the dash when u put the key in and the car recognizes it, that the symbol of a car with a key in the center of it lights up. Now on mine I can see when that logo is however that light have never lit up even though all the other dash lights and symbols light up. Hence y I cleaned the antenna coil deal and connectors for it cuz it showed online that then that usually fixes it. Yet it hasn't on mine. I called the locksmith who cut the key and explained every thing to him and after he tried telling me it's probably this or that once I told him I tried everything and then some he said he was going to look into it and get back to me which was a week ago still haven't heard back. However if it was the key not being recognized, u would think that me jumping the starter while on the car should bypass the key if it was interfering(or am I wrong that it won't bypass the key interuption if that's what is happening?). So basically I'm wondering what do I try next in order to try start the car? And also with replacing the clutch master and slave cylinder what would b causing me.such resistance in the pedal after 5 pumps and bleeding? And the clutch master and clutch slave cylinders screw together at a metal bracket tyoe deal that looks like some metal/magnet/valve cylinder type deal which I have no idea what that is called or what it is but I'm wondering is that interfering with the function of the clutch cylinders somehow? Just trying to find out from others what Avenue for me to go at this point cuz I'm just stuck as far as what to do next. Cuz I'm trying too get to get the car just to start at this point without throwing a bunch of money into it since I can't determine if it's worth fixing or not till I get it to at least start.
Sorry for such a long post, but wanted to put it all out there so that way I don't get asked a bunch of questions of if I've tried this or that 馃槈
 

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But when I try to at least try start the car all I get is 1 click sound from the starter....when I turn the key to attempt to start I have all power and then once the starter clicks the dash and clock etc go blank
What you describe are symptoms of a high resistance. One of the electrical connections isn't able to carry the electrical load of the starter motor. That's why all power is lost as soon as the starter engages. It's usually the body ground but you said you cleaned those already. You could try using one of your jump leads to link the battery negative terminal to the a clean metal part of the engine to see if that helps. But the way to actually diagnose the problem is to carry out voltage drop tests on the body grounds and the main power supplies to the engine bay fusebox.

BTW, cars built for the US market don't have chipped keys AFAIK, so the immobilizer warning light shouldn't switch on. Also, the transponder key immobilizer inhibits the fuel injectors, not the starter motor so the engine will still crank even when the immobilizer is active. It just wont fire up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
But when I try to at least try start the car all I get is 1 click sound from the starter....when I turn the key to attempt to start I have all power and then once the starter clicks the dash and clock etc go blank
What you describe are symptoms of a high resistance. One of the electrical connections isn't able to carry the electrical load of the starter motor. That's why all power is lost as soon as the starter engages. It's usually the body ground but you said you cleaned those already. You could try using one of your jump leads to link the battery negative terminal to the a clean metal part of the engine to see if that helps. But the way to actually diagnose the problem is to carry out voltage drop tests on the body grounds and the main power supplies to the engine bay fusebox.

BTW, cars built for the US market don't have chipped keys AFAIK, so the immobilizer warning light shouldn't switch on. Also, the transponder key immobilizer inhibits the fuel injectors, not the starter motor so the engine will still crank even when the immobilizer is active. It just wont fire up.
Thanks Autospark for your response. So as far as the car with key symbol spot on the dash that doesn't light up, that's just there for no reason then on USA cars is how I take that? If so then that rules out that idea of what could be interfering. I'm definitely going to try what u said about the ground cable to the body tomorrow. I don't have a volt/amp reader, just the plain old light up tester. Sounds like I'll have to go to town and buy a volt reader. Any other ideas of what to try if the ground jump doesn't work? Also any idea on what to do as far as what could be causing the resistance in the clutch?
 

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Any other ideas of what to try if the ground jump doesn't work?
Invest in a digital multimeter (they aren't expensive these days) and carry out some voltage drop tests on the main ground and main power supplies to the engine bay fusebox. The main fusebox power supply can usually be tested at the big bolt on fuse link at the corner of the fusebox. If your not familiar with voltage drop testing try a search on youtube and I'm sure you'll find lots of vidoes about it. Here is one to get you started :


Sonyahart69 said:
Also any idea on what to do as far as what could be causing the resistance in the clutch?
Sorry, clutches aren't my department. I'll leave that one for one of the more mechanically minded folk to answer.
 

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When I hear just the one click, I also suspect a voltage drop some where
So, clean battery posts, cable terminals (at the battery, alternator, starter), especially the ones going to the starter
Clean the ignition wire going to the starter.
Some mechanics will put 12 volts to the starter solenoid to see if the starter will run
Sometimes has corrosion enough to prevent the starter from working.

Next would be to check the starter relay
Swap with another relay?


Good luck
 

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Red Raspberry said:
Can you spin the motor with the crank shaft pulley bolt when in neutral?
Someone didn't read the whole story I guess.....
Sonyahart69 said:
So I checked the crankshaft to make sure that it wasn't seized and that I could spin it clockwise without any major resistance and I am able to rotate the crankshaft just fine by hand.
 

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Oh dear, I've gone and upset Red again :surprise:
Not really. But do you think the relay clicking comment has any merit or do you just jab? Just waiting for the grass to dry so I can do something constructive here while waiting for the grass to dry. Sorry to have upset the experts enough to cause them to issues a glaring statement. Good thing my grammar and spelling were correct. It could have turned ugly!!!!
 

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You know that opening post was quite long!!
Yeah, it was almost as long as some of my replies to folk :laugh:
I just made a pot of tea and grabbed my choccy biccies before sitting down to read through it.

But do you think the relay clicking comment has any merit!
If I'm understanding correctly what the OP is describing the power to the instrument cluster, etc is breaking down as soon as the starter solenoid engages. So I think the click he is hearing is more likely to be coming from the starter motor. But if the starter solenoid is engaging then obviously the START relay must be clicking too since that's what powers the solenoid.

I don't think the clicking is really relevant to diagnosing the problem though. Assuming my understanding of what is happening is correct, of course.
 

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I have run across this same problem on different cars. Usually it is a bad battery cable and the POSITIVE one at that. I've had them get corroded internally behind the covering from the battery all the way to the starter. Once you replace it, everything should work fine.

Moe
 
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