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Discussion Starter #1
While driving to work today, The car started to shake violently, and completely stalled out. The whole dash was lit up with lights. Put the car in par, turned it off, and back on started without any problem. Drove to work without any problems.

Any idea what would've caused that? This is the first actual problem I've had with my 2015 Sonata since having it for about 3 years. Sorta gave me a mini heart attack. ☹


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Best to start with OBD stored code search.


I'll look into, the OBD2 scanner I have doesn't have an option for Hyundai cars. Possibly going to look into buying one before, paying the dealership for diagnostics.


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I'll look into, the OBD2 scanner I have doesn't have an option for Hyundai cars. Possibly going to look into buying one before, paying the dealership for diagnostics.


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Just select a vehicle and use global OBDII and it should read the codes
 

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Same thing happened to my first 6 months of ownership of 15 sonata . Was slowing down for a red light and all of a sudden , car died .

No codes so Dealer couldn’t do anything.




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Computers. Electronics. Don't you love it? ???

Way back when...... we would lift the hood and find/fix what was wrong. Can't do that anymore.

Example. Once had a Buick that just stopped cold. Lifted hood and did some easy testing. Saw that the points were good but NO SPARK. Has to be the coil. Walked to a store and phoned an Auto Parts store who then delivered a coil to me. Installed coil and car started right up. (Can't do this today).

Another time 75 BMW, Six cylinder. Last year with (twin) carburetors. Car died while at a motel. The mechanical fuel pump failed. Oh crap. Now I have to be towed ($$$$) to a BMW dealer and have them replace the mechanical pump. ($$$$$$$$) Then I got an idea. Back in those years, Race Car Drivers used Electric Fuel Pumps to feed the carburetors. Next morning, had a friend pick me up, went to an auto parts store, purchased an Electric Fuel Pump, fuel hose, wiring, etc. only thing I could not find was metal "T" or "Y" fuel fittings, so I got plastic ones used for windshield washers. Insulated the plastic fittings and wire tied them so they would not touch anything hot and melt. Hooked everything up, switched on key and the thing started ticking (pumping). When carburetors full, it stopped ticking. Hut starter and car started right up. Drive car like that for additional two years like that. Never did replace the mechanical pump.

Now understand, I am an Amateur mechanic, not a Professional mechanic, but these are things even I could do. People now have no idea what is a Carburator, a Coil, Points, etc.

I don't even carry tools with me anymore as there is nothing I can fix anymore.

Like I said before, don't you just love computers and electronics? ??
 

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Computers. Electronics. Don't you love it? ???

Way back when...... we would lift the hood and find/fix what was wrong. Can't do that anymore.
Way back when the engines were polluting gas guzzlers that only lasted a little better than 100K. If you want to survive on this planet with over 1 billion cars and counting then we all need better solutions and will need to make sacrifices.

I have learned to diagnose and fix modern engines. Scanners have never been cheaper or more accessible to DIYrs. I like sensors and wish there were more to help pinpoint the problem.
 

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Way back when the engines were polluting gas guzzlers that only lasted a little better than 100K.


I go back to far....I my way back machine. When I was young you could pick up a vehicle with 60K on the clock for a song....didn't even need to dance.:smile:


I have learned to diagnose and fix modern engines. Scanners have never been cheaper or more accessible to DIYrs. I like sensors and wish there were more to help pinpoint the problem.
That would be learning the different systems and good repair info as well as using other tools like dvom, graphing meters and scopes.....It's a different day than that of carburetors and points distributors. I used to rebuild chevy engines without removing the engines. That's provided the block didn't need to be bored or line honed.
 

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Computers. Electronics. Don't you love it?
No, the only thing I miss is space in the engine bay.
When cars were rear wheel drive, the engine bay had so much space that you could almost stand in there and fix what you needed.
Fuel filters were outside near the carburetors
You only need about 4 to 6 psi to run a carburetor
Now you need 40 to 60 psi to run the fuel injectors

Only thing common is the rust
Rust all over the place
Making it so hard to remove nuts and bolts

Note: OP could have a faulty fuel pump which straightened itself out with restart???
Wouldn't worry about it .. if it doesn't happen again
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Same thing happened to my first 6 months of ownership of 15 sonata . Was slowing down for a red light and all of a sudden , car died .

No codes so Dealer couldn’t do anything.




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I just checked for codes, shows nothing at all. Guess I'm in the same situation as you. The car seems to be driving slightly rough now.....


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Computers. Electronics. Don't you love it? ???

Way back when...... we would lift the hood and find/fix what was wrong. Can't do that anymore.

Example. Once had a Buick that just stopped cold. Lifted hood and did some easy testing. Saw that the points were good but NO SPARK. Has to be the coil. Walked to a store and phoned an Auto Parts store who then delivered a coil to me. Installed coil and car started right up. (Can't do this today).

Another time 75 BMW, Six cylinder. Last year with (twin) carburetors. Car died while at a motel. The mechanical fuel pump failed. Oh crap. Now I have to be towed ($$$$) to a BMW dealer and have them replace the mechanical pump. ($$$$$$$$) Then I got an idea. Back in those years, Race Car Drivers used Electric Fuel Pumps to feed the carburetors. Next morning, had a friend pick me up, went to an auto parts store, purchased an Electric Fuel Pump, fuel hose, wiring, etc. only thing I could not find was metal "T" or "Y" fuel fittings, so I got plastic ones used for windshield washers. Insulated the plastic fittings and wire tied them so they would not touch anything hot and melt. Hooked everything up, switched on key and the thing started ticking (pumping). When carburetors full, it stopped ticking. Hut starter and car started right up. Drive car like that for additional two years like that. Never did replace the mechanical pump.

Now understand, I am an Amateur mechanic, not a Professional mechanic, but these are things even I could do. People now have no idea what is a Carburator, a Coil, Points, etc.

I don't even carry tools with me anymore as there is nothing I can fix anymore.

Like I said before, don't you just love computers and electronics? ??
Spoke with a friend today who must have the alternator replaced on his 15 or so year old Ford. An Indy quoted him $900+. Dealer quilted $500+. So many things need to be removed before they can even get to the alternator. Reminds me how years ago, I once changed the alternator of my 1970 'Cuda 340. Went to parts store, bought replacement and installed it myself. Easy. Right out in the open.

With today's cars, I don't even know where it's located, much less change it.
 

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Yes ever since that experience, i became afraid to drive in the fast lane on Highway. Always drove in the slow Lane in case i had to safety pull over from another stall.

You may soon notice a weak inconsistent ignition, or stall immediate after ignition. These are ok though as it's not happening while driving.

Make sure the vcm/ECM on your vehicle was also updated from last year's campaign.




I just checked for codes, shows nothing at all. Guess I'm in the same situation as you. The car seems to be driving slightly rough now.....


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Hopefully SBR will chime in on this, but I remember something about the 2015 models causing oil to build up in the intake system, and occasionally when it builds up enough the engine will get a big gulp of oil and stall out.
 

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80schild?? You must want back in on a Sonata.....:wink:
 

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80schild?? You must want back in on a Sonata.....:wink:
Lol. Nah, the Toyota forums get a little boring. One can only discuss lift kits so much. :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Went to dealership for the latest campaign update, and brought up my issue with the car. The dealership wants me to drop off the car, so they can drop the oil pan to look for traces of metal. If so, it will require a engine replacement through Hyundai. The only concern is will my MicroGreen filter or Funmoto valve cause issues with the warranty?

I hope someone can pitch in regarding this issue, I know Sbr may have some insight on what exactly should be done.




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Microgreen filter and fumoto won't void warranties. But, if you're having a problem, I would run down to the parts depts and install an OE filter and drain plug, unless you know how technically savvy your dictatorship at the dealership is.... dumb dealers/techs would void warranty for bumper stickers if they could. And, I hope that you are using the Microgreen filter as a normal filter, and not doing their 30k mile oil change with filter only changes at 10k. Your oil/filter change interval, regardless of how fancy the oil and filter are, in your owners manual. With vehicle on ramps, and after all oil drains from the Fumoto, I would then remove it to see how much is left behind too.

You don't need to remove the pan for 'trace metal search'. You can get an 'oil sample pump', pull a sample thru the dipstick, and then send that oil sample off for a UOA. As such, I wouldn't go to a dealer for simply a pan drop, unless the engine is knocking or is 'permanently stalled'.

The lastest software for the 'knock sensor' should allow the ECU to detect a bearing failure caused knock too. Make sure all recalls are completed.

A freak stall, as long as engine restarts, isn't much to worry about. It could be bad gas or sensor glitch(in one of my cases rodents chewed up wiring). I would definitely keep an eye on oil level at every fuel fill up, and avoid generic fuels. https://toptiergas.com/licensed-brands/

I would toss in a bottle of PEA or equivalent FI cleaner to rule out dirty injectors. I would check the condition of the air filter or just replace it. And, if over 30k miles, I'd even consider replacing the PCV valve. Clean the throttle body too.
 

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Back in the late '80's GM had a problem with intermittent crankshaft position sensors. We had an '87 Cutlass Ciera with the (then) high output 3.8L V6 with sequential port fuel injection. Actually ran quite well and got 30MPG on the highway.

One day I am cruising along, turn a corner and just as I step on the throttle, dead. Nada, nothing. Roll to the side of the road and try to restart. Cranks fine, no start. I turned off the ignition and opened the hood, saw nothing unusual, got back in, turned the key, started right up! Like nothing happened.

Learned later that the big "tell" on the issue was just that; wouldn't start unless you cycled the ignition switch off, then back on and start. Sensor was changed and never had the problem again. IIRC, the sensor was telling the ECU that the engine was not turning, so ignition and fuel pump were shut off.
 
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