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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hope someone could help me. The car started making clicking/knocking noise when turning in the front. But it does this when stationary. Sounds like CV joints but it's not (?) because it does this even when standing. Replaced strut top mounts, also shocks but not the springs.
Also has front sub frame replaced recently.

After the top mounts, which were terribly rusted, the knocking/clicking sound when turning didn't stop. Also squeaks now when going over bumps up and down.
The sound is intermediate. Mostly there, but sometimes stops. Been to the garage 2 times, and both times, the squeak literally stopped right when stopping in front of the garage doors. :p When turning the spring doesn't shake or move weird, also you can't feel by hand that the ball joint shakes or crackles.

I'm kind of out of ideas, anyone experienced something like this before? Or has any input on how to approach this problem?
 

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Well it is a long shot, but my Opel Astra F made something similar. When turning to right or left by a standing car something cracked, but not when the car was moving. I suspect the bearing at top of "Mac Pherson tower". I did not opened it, but after some months (or was it years) the left front wheel no longer was tight. Changing the wheel bearing the cracking sound disappeared.

If you want to spend money, you can try change the wheel bearing, and hope the sound disappears.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well it is a long shot, but my Opel Astra F made something similar. When turning to right or left by a standing car something cracked, but not when the car was moving. I suspect the bearing at top of "Mac Pherson tower". I did not opened it, but after some months (or was it years) the left front wheel no longer was tight. Changing the wheel bearing the cracking sound disappeared.

If you want to spend money, you can try change the wheel bearing, and hope the sound disappears.
Interesting, did you have excess noise when going down the road? Or was the bearing quiet before that?
I've heard wheel bearings crack but it's too constant. And as of now, the sound outside seems to be coming from the middle of the car. I now suspect some kind of trickery going on with the steering rack. Maybe somekind of rust or something else.
 

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Driving at road I did not hear any cracking sound only when standing still. I did not hear any sounds from the wheel bearing when driving. I discovered the worn wheel bearing, when changing from winter tires to summer tires (or was it the opposite).

And for your car it might be the axial bearing at top of the "suspension leg". But is that the strut top mount that you already have changed? In that case the problem is something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bearings changed with top bushings, tie rods changed, all of them, basically everything. I'm really perplexed. Still creaks and cracks/pops. What I touch, doesn't pop. Anyone have an Idea what or how how to approach this problem?
 

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Well, every logical parts seems to have been exchanged. The remaining parts is the steering rack as you mentioned. At the ends of the steering rack are joints going to the tie rod. These are protected with a bellow. And I have seen and exchanged several broken bellows. Perhaps some gravel have come into the steering rack through a broken bellow?

Another long shot would be the rubber joints connecting the drop arm to the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update, also now, finally, a more specific question.
Sprayed silicone on the front sub frame bushings. And the noise stopped. Didn't locate which bushing, will do that when the noise comes back. I did see that the garage that changed the sub frame, had a lift. no canal (?) or however you say that in English. Could it be, that the bushings are just under some weird pressure? E.g not tightening them when the car was on the ground, but rather hanging in the air, or do I have to change the bushings because maybe, they are in some way inferior to the OEM ones?
 

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So you are thinking stabilizer bar rubber bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As of now, I don't know which one made the noise stop. I spayed the back of the frame openings and also where the control arms link up. It was a last ditch effort as this has gone on for over a month now with 2 different garages stumped. Just parts changed with no improvement. Basically everywhere I could see rubber near the sub frame.
 

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Good that the noise disappeared!

Usually the rubber bushings should be tightened when the car stands at ground. And it is possible for saving time and costs that they were tightened in wrong position, when the car was lifted up.

Of course you can try loosen a little and tighten the rubber bushing again, with the car on ground. But who knows what happens, in bad case the sound starts again.

If in wrong way tightened I suppose the rubber bushing lifetime will shorten with some years. Have you planned to keep to car for another 10 years?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good that the noise disappeared!

Usually the rubber bushings should be tightened when the car stands at ground. And it is possible for saving time and costs that they were tightened in wrong position, when the car was lifted up.

Of course you can try loosen a little and tighten the rubber bushing again, with the car on ground. But who knows what happens, in bad case the sound starts again.

If in wrong way tightened I suppose the rubber bushing lifetime will shorten with some years. Have you planned to keep to car for another 10 years?
Probably not 10 years, but I plan to use it till the need to get a bigger one. And I don't like to do things wrong, meaning If I sell it, I don't want to sell something I know is fixed wrong :)
 
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