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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i10 pulls to right at low speed. I have had the alignment checked 3 times. Had 2 new tyres fitted and checked the pressures. There doesn't look like there is any play in the suspension. Has anyone got any idea what could be wrong. The car is a 2014 with 28000 miles on the clock. So hasn't been around the world.
Any advice would be appreciated 馃檹
 

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2015 Sonata Limited 2.4 GDI non turbo 40k miles Kona EV 2021 15k miles
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Does it pull a little or quite hard ? Did it had an accident ? If it's manual, put in neutral and lift one wheel at time and spin by hand, see if it drags - that may be caused by a stuck brake pad getting stuck in the caliper bracket. May also try lifting both front wheels and spin them by hand and see if you feel for too much resistance - maybe a problem with the transmission from a previous owner (if any)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi I have had it up in the air. Both wheels spin freely so don't think it's brakes. It is a manual gear box. There are no signs of accident damage
I spoke to a mechanic and he says the only thing he could think of was to change the top strut mounts. ?
 

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2016 Elantra GT and 2011 Elantra Touring
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Both wheels spin freely so don't think it's brakes.
Both wheels? A rear brake dragging [parking brake] can cause this as well as the fronts. Any wheels, bearings or brakes getting warmer than the others. You bought two new tyres,
might need 4. I had a car that always pulled to the right after two alignments from different shops. I read how alignment works, made some adjustments myself that put it out of spec but cured the problem. Maybe the frame or something was bent. You never can tell.
 

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The rear toes seems to be the main culprit leading to the slight pull to right at low speed imho.

Besides, the front left camber of -0掳24' also causes slight pull to right phenomenon.

Would it improve significantly by equalising both the front cambers ? IDK and I'm not sure.

Do you notice whether the two rear tires have a higher wearing rate than the front tires, in particular the Rear Right?

Unfortunately this i10 has a rear torsion beam design with no factory adjustability for rear camber and toe. If it were me, I would look into a mod on shimming the rear axle hubs to try balance and reduce the rear total toes.

Question: Whilst driving straight ahead with both hands holding tight to the steering wheel, is the steering wheel centre off to one side say, Right?
 

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2016 Elantra GT and 2011 Elantra Touring
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Swapping the rear tires can't hurt.

Zeng is correct. A lot of things are slightly out of whack.
But I would just do the simple things first. The toe is messed up and I would bring all that closer to specs with simple tie rod adjustments. Then I would move the right front camber a little more to the negative side like -0.25
I do my own alignments and I find every car is different and often require some fine tuning. Most shops just push the car through the alignment rack once and if you come back to complain they consider you a problem customer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had it in to get the steering wheel lined up. I can't remember if it became a problem after that was done. We had only had the car a few days and the steering been of center bugged me.
It all sounds to be getting complicated with shims.
Is it possible to just adjust the front tracking to counter react to pull to the right?
 

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Yes, and I wouldn't touch the rear suspension. All adjustments I mentioned are to do with the front only. I should have said that in my second post.
 

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i10 1.0L SE Manual, 2017. Polar White, Centre Console, Bodyside Mouldings.
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I don鈥檛 believe 1鈥 is enough to cause the pulling to right. It鈥檚 nowhere near enough to have an effect imo.

We have a pull to left on our 2017 i10, but put it down to road camber. Roads almost always have a gradient into the gutter for drainage.

Could be as simple of tyre manufacturer or 1/2 psi difference in pressures. Worth swapping front to rear and see if it cures it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have tried swaping wheels around then purchased new tyres just to make sure. The problem persists. I have also tried 2 different tyre places to get the wheel alignment checked. Just can't get an explanation to it. ?
 

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I had it in to get the steering wheel lined up. I can't remember if it became a problem after that was done. We had only had the car a few days and the steering been of center bugged me.
It all sounds to be getting complicated with shims.
Is it possible to just adjust the front tracking to counter react to pull to the right?
You'd get the bugging/annoying off-centre/cocked steering wheel centred and lined up properly in May whilst no adjustment was done to correct the 'Before' alignment as displayed?

Agree with you correcting the rear numbers on a rear torsion beam is quite a herculean task and seems almost impossible. The 'accelerated' rear tire wear (especially Rear Right) I speculated may be a nuisance one has to accept and live with.

It is possible. Ok on an alignment rack consider first adjusting the Front Right cambers from -0掳23' to -0掳26' (where Elvis suggested -0掳25').

Assuming the Front Left camber and toe (including all rear numbers) remains unchanged, then adjust the Front Right toe from +0掳02' to +0掳06' followed by a test drive and see how it goes and report back.

Note: This suggested numbers could surely improve the 'wanders around' phenomenon you brought up earlier in Post #4.
 

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Thanks for all your help. It looks like it will need more than tracking. My daughter was hit side on at a cross roads. Nothing to do with wheel alignment thankfully and both parties walked away.
Very lucky.
Thanks again.
You're welcome.
I'm glad every one is alright. Cars can be replaced.
 
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