Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK. So I've read all the previous forums of people who have accents that will crank but won't start. I found out that the fuel pump was not spinning, so I purchased a replacement. Before installing it, I connected all of the wires and the new pump wouldn't spin either. I then hooked the pump directly to the battery and it spins with no problems. After that I realized that the power wire for the pump must be shorting somewhere. So I hooked up the old pump and ran a new power wire from the relay box to the pump. The pump now runs, but the car still won't start. I definitely have fuel to the rail now. I unhooked the fuel line at the fuel rail and it sprays as soon as I turn the key to "On". Now all I need to know is if I'm forgetting something (bleeding the fuel rail?, etc.). Are there any other parts I'm forgetting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Besides the fuel pump relay, I've been all over, and I can't find an actual "fuse" for the fuel pump. And if the filter were clogged, would it still be spraying at the fuel rail? And what's the easiest way to test the fuel volume and pressure of the pump? Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well, I have no spark at the ignition pack either. Fuel pump, and spark, both are failing. Is there one module, relay, fuse, or ECU that could fail and knock both of those out at the same time? I'm running out of ideas here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi, I'm no expert, but, check the crankshaft position sensor, without a signal from that sensor the ECU does not allow the spark to start the car. Apparently, the ECU waits for this signal to know where the crankshaft is (i.e. pistons) in order to to start "sparking".

I too have a starting problem on my accent, and have had at the service agent changed the crankshaft sensor, fuel pump, plugs, plug wires. All, without resolution. Finally I changed the pressure reducing valve on the fuel rail, and so far, knock wood, no more problems, and the fuel efficency hac gone up too.

Hope this helps. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
ok I have the same problem, here is what I have done. I have not replaced anything. I have the same intermittent no crank problem. It seems to happen more when weather is damp or raining and engine is cold. Many times when it cranks and no start I open the hood and shake all the wires that go to the sensors. I wiggle all the connectors and wiggle all the wires under the hood..... It then starts right away, every time!!!! I have been working on this for 5 months now and I am slowly getting it down to the wire connection that it is. I have 3 wires to go, but since I last wiggled the wires 2 months ago it has been starting fine. My theory is moisture is getting into a connector for one of the sensors and the connection is not good.. then when u wiggle the wires the connection gets better and the car starts. Sounds crazy but it works for me EVERY TIME!!!! I have eliminated the spark and coil pack wires its not that. I am at the point of looking at the wires toward the rear of the engine around the fuel injectors...maybe there somewhere...yup when its hot never a problem...Its a cracked wire or bad connection I'm sure of it!!!!!!!!! When moisture gets in there it won't start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
For me, it was a bad crank sensor, and a corroded positive battery cable.

That fixed her up fine and dandy.

I would guess either crank sensor, or cam sensor. One of the two. You need to do an OBDII scan. My car showed a code when the sensor was failing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have been having a similar problem with my MVI 1.5
Starts most times but is gradually getting worse. I know nothing about engines. I have read different replys, some stating it could be the ignition key, some fuel pump, some crank sensor, some say its wet weather. My problem is any time rain or shine. I cant afford to get all these parts replaced but need to be able to rely on the car. I can roll it it and it will fire up but I have heard continous push starting can bugger up the CAT.
I would appreciate some good advice here fellas..
Do Hyundai read these Posts???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
kamikaze2002 I think I´m having the same problem. When I turn the ignition on it doesn`t show the check engine light and there is no sound of fuel pump doing its job. (won`t start of course) Have you found the solution for your problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Hi there Mike06 and MarkieD and kamikarze2002 i am havin the same problem on my 1.5 mvi hear in england i think it is the immobilizer i have a bloke coming to cheack it out tonight but i will let you no.........oh and do any of you have the key symbol on asell mine is not on that is what makes me think it is the immobilzer because this symbol controls the fule pump.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
ok ive been having this same problem for a while now thats been puzzling my local mechanic. About 3 years ago i took the car off the road to put in a new engine, nothing fancy just an exact replacement for the one that was already in it; the 1.5l 12v SOHC. I did the work myself and finished successfully checking all my wire connections. I was confindent it would just start right up but it didnt. Took it to my mechanic who it was the ECU due to the fact that I had no CEL, no spark and when I turned the key to on there was no fuel pump whirr that i remember there being b4, the car will crank all day long but will not catch. so i sent out the ECU to b rebuilt got it back a few weeks later all fixed up and when i put it back in the car, no difference. My mechanic has now been blowing me off ever since it got to this point and im tired of driving by there everyday seeing it sit there and not being able to drive it.

im assuming if there is no CEL than that means sum how the ECU isnt getting power but i checked fuses and tons of wires for continuity which they all have so would it b worth getting the crank position sensor? because besides the previous engine being blown the car ran fine, even the day i pulled it in to the garage to start the work it ran. someone help me! i have a feeling that my mechanic is not going to do anything still so if anyone has any info that could be helpful to me please repost!!!

oh btw everything else electrical in the car works no problem, all interior lights, headlights, radio, everything but the **** engine is working right now!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
can anyone offer ANY information that could possibly help me?

what else does the ECU power wire run through that may cause it to not get power or is it on its own seperate line?
would the ECU not power up at all if even one sensor is unhooked?

Could someone link me a wiring schematic specific to the ECU wiring so i could look over it?

also does anyone know if it came down to it how expensive would it be to replace the entire wiring harness and how much would that run about? i doubt it will have to come to that but would be nice to have a ballpark figure upfront.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE if anyone can help i would really appreciate it!!!

thanks

EDIT: car is 1.5L 12v sohc and manual tranny, no TCU installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Originally posted by dsaint@Jan 18 2008, 09:09 PM
Hi, I'm no expert, but, check the crankshaft position sensor, without a signal from that sensor the ECU does not allow the spark to start the car. Apparently, the ECU  waits for this signal to know where the crankshaft is (i.e. pistons) in order to to start "sparking".

I too have a starting problem on my accent, and have had at the service agent changed the crankshaft sensor, fuel pump, plugs, plug wires. All, without resolution. Finally I changed the pressure reducing valve on the  fuel rail, and so far, knock wood, no more problems, and the fuel efficency hac gone up too. 

Hope this helps. ;)
[snapback]131165[/snapback]​



"pressure reducing valve on the fuel rail" was that valve costly? Easy to replace?

-tr
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Ok guys, my problem still exists, but i have found out that if i use a hair dryer on the ECU and heat it up - car starts immediately. I don`t know why it needs warm (condense water??) but if it gets it, it will be okay until next day. I don`t know that is inside in the ecu cover, maybe the problem is not chip itself but some connection or something?!
I think new ECU would make the difference but it is far from cheap so i must be sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Originally posted by Mike06@Sep 1 2008, 01:34 PM
Ok guys, my problem still exists, but i have found out that if i use a hair dryer on the ECU and heat it up - car starts immediately. I don`t know why it needs warm (condense water??) but if it gets it, it will be okay until next day. I don`t know that is inside in the ecu cover, maybe the problem is not chip itself but some connection or something?!
I think new ECU would make the difference but it is far from cheap so i must be sure.
[snapback]187097[/snapback]​



I would unplug the connector(s) one at a time, spray each side with WD40, dry with air can spray. Finish with an electronic contact spray if you have it.

Work the connectors in and out 3 or 4 times.

If the ECU still needs heat -- you may have a thermal (electronic) inside the box.

Try "fourgreen.com" for a replacement.

-tr
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
2005 Hyundai intermitten no start , to no start at all . my mechanic had the car for 1 week , changed crankshaft position sensor ( missing insulation about 3 inch ) , changed fuel pump relay showed signs of being hot , changed fuel pump still no start , (its been below freezing here for the past 3 or 4 weeks ) put heater under car to heat exhaust pipe near rear axle , drilled hole in low spot to drain water which was frozen ( exhaust pipe frozen closed ) now it runs but still stalls , took fuse / relay box under hood apart , found wire that had corrosion on outside ( black /tan stripe , connects to underside of fuel pump relay ) removed section where corrosion was and replaced with new wire ,, ( cut wire open that was removed and copper strands were no longer connected , now car runs and has not stalled ,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
2002 Hyundai Sonata-have had multiple issues with car starting/cranking for several months. Dealer has replaced the crankshaft sensor twice (one was defective) and starter; worked for about a month and then car would not start again. Dealer ran diagnostics all day and car started all day with no issues. Finally determined that it was a loose pin on ECM; replaced pin and they state there should be no further issues. Can someone verify if this seems like the possible cause and solution for the cranking issues?
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top