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That's the kind the Gen Coupe has with only one pipe. Difficult to bleed. Be sure they prefill the Slave with fluid by collapsing it, sticking the pipe in some fluid and then expanding it before installing.

Here is the Hyundai bleed procedure....

 

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Discussion Starter #22
thanks for that. Im gonna try to bleed it when/if i get back home.
im not too hopeful though, I get the feeling its gonna need a clutch replacement.

im building my garage, maybe this is a hint I should put an I beam across the middle to hang an engine hoist from...
 

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The starter has no connection to the clutch problem. It amazes that as manufacturers make changes for inprovement the price escalates. The old slave cylinder on the outside is probably 15 t0 20 pound. I wouldn't condemn the slave cylinder yet. Is there any soft spongy feel to the initial pedal movement? If so it may be the master cylinder which is a common problem. I would do as has been suggested change the clutch fluid preferably by pressure bleeding to eliminate the chance of any air getting in.
 

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Just saying,We have had in the i30 manuals some success with deletion or replacement of the damper valve improving clutch fork travel. Some have reported full clutch replacement also can fix. This is where the pedal is buried to the wall and the clutch does not fully disengage, very low pick up point.

My own Diesel improved with a new Damper Valve, still a bit low but instant change, others had no luck and done the whole clutch.






Some have unscrewed the valve and capped it with a 16mm x 1.5 sump



Also found a Mitsubishi equivalent part number to simple replace it to save $$
 

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Discussion Starter #26
cool!
but I'm not familiar with what the damper is or what it does. (or where it's located) any idea?
and while I'm asking, why is there a coil of hydraulic pipe in the system?
 

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The dampener on the concentric clutch is in the slave body where the pipe screws in. It really only dampens when releasing the clutch though. Here is the one from my Gen Coupe.



Some clutches have no adjustable rod for the pedal travel too. My Gen Coupe does not but you can add one. Here is the Hyundai clutch master cylinder from a Tuscon. You can get a used one and take the adjustable rod and replace it with the fixed rod if that is your case.

 

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Discussion Starter #28
i think i have fixed rod for pedal travel, ill have to look again.
but to get at the slave cylinder for dampner removal, I would have to remove the engine or transmission right?
 

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Usually they fail and there is no clutch at all with fluid leaking out the bottom of the bellhousing. But anytime the trans is dropped it's a good idea to put in a new one. There are many out there usually but all are identical to the Hyundai ones. Hyundai does have one with two pipes and it is the easy one to bleed.

With a new one you can pull on the bellows by hand and see how it expands to push the bearing against the pressure plate.
 

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Pressure bleeding is using a special belleder that fits on top of the master cylinder and you pump up a low pressure to help force the fluid thru the system without having to touch the pedal. You can gravity bleed it by simply opening the bleed nipple and let gravity push the fluid thru. Keep an eye on the fluid level of the master cylinder and don't let it run out or other problems will arise. The coil in the solid pipe is to allow it to be more flexable with engine vibration and not break. Those dampers that have been mentioned are a real pita and not necessary in my books.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Pressure bleeding is using a special belleder that fits on top of the master cylinder and you pump up a low pressure to help force the fluid thru the system without having to touch the pedal. You can gravity bleed it by simply opening the bleed nipple and let gravity push the fluid thru. Keep an eye on the fluid level of the master cylinder and don't let it run out or other problems will arise. The coil in the solid pipe is to allow it to be more flexable with engine vibration and not break. Those dampers that have been mentioned are a real pita and not necessary in my books.
you recon a rubberglove filled with brake fluid and cabletied over the resevoir would work as a DIY pressure bleeder? probably too much danger of introducing air (and messy!)

is it possible to somehow lock the vibration dampers? (im not sure I even have them, but I certainly have low rev vibration)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
sorry for multiple pics.
I tried bleeding slave with my son pushing the pedal but I think I've made it worse!

there seems to be a drip leak (behind the bleeder nipple body bolt thing (where you put the other wrench, see arrow) when the pedal is pushed, this part moves! is it supposed to? it sort of pushes out of the pipe from the bellhousing??
how is it connected to it or is it manufactured as a complete part?
 

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The movement may just be flexing when pressure is applied. Wash down the leak with a bit of soapy water then check again later. The rubber glove sounds creative and could possibly work but before that just leave the bleed nipple open and let it gravity bleed just keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and don't let it run out.
 

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The pipe coming out of the belhousing has no support and will move easily. Do not put any load on it when tightening or loosening the bleeder. Behind the bleeder you should use a wrench to hold it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
yes I used 2 pairs of vicegrips to bleed to avoid stress on the tube (but may be leaking anyway)
does gravity bleeding really get rid of bubbles?
just keep the reservoir topped up and open the nipple, simple as that?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
yes I used 2 pairs of vicegrips to bleed to avoid stress on the tube (but may be leaking anyway)
does gravity bleeding really get rid of bubbles?
just keep the reservoir topped up and open the nipple, simple as that?
 

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Yes it does. Pumping the pedal can actually draw air in when you lift the pedal up. I use a vacuum bleeder but if the master cylinder is a dickie it can draw in air. As I said pressure bleeding is the most effective way but you do need a special unit. You say there is no problem in the forward gears? Not even difficulty when shifting down from 3rd to 2nd? At this stage where only summising it's a hydraulic issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
no, the forward gears are also very hard (with motor running). I actually did get reverse to work with cold motor but stops again after heated up
 
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