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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have always loved the sound of Infinity car audio speakers and was looking at dropping the extra money on their Kappa line. They are 95dB efficient so it barely takes any power to drive them, but they are also 2 Ohm resistance. I was just wondering if anyone has run into any issues with aftermarket speakers with such low resistance. Their logic is that once you factor in the thin and less than direct wiring in a factory system that it will push the actual load back to a more traditional 3-4 at the head unit.

Anyone chime in?

INFINITY KAPPA 62.11I
 

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Having measured the resistance of the speaker circuits on quite a few cars, I don't think your theory about the resistance of the wiring holds up.

What you could do though is add a 2 Ohm resistor network in series with each of the 2 Ohms speakers. I'm sure the amplifier in your head unit will thank you for it.
 

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In theory would adding 2 ohm resistors would drop the volume 3db, but this is extra for your amp, just add an external amplifier, for me, 20 watts per speaker is way more than enough if you want to keep your hearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Speaker wire resistance is a fact of physics, just not sure to what extent in reality

Having measured the resistance of the speaker circuits on quite a few cars, I don't think your theory about the resistance of the wiring holds up.

What you could do though is add a 2 Ohm resistor network in series with each of the 2 Ohms speakers. I'm sure the amplifier in your head unit will thank you for it.
It most certainly does. try measuring the resistance of a speaker at the terminals, then connect it to 100ft of thin wire and measure the resistance at the other end of the wire. There are plenty of charts out that show you the maximum length recommended by speaker resistance and wire gauge out there.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speaker_wire

now how much it effects in a factory car wiring harness would require actual measurements at the connector in the back of the head unit, and I'm not planning on getting that deep into this, I just want to plug and play some new speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm trying to avoid that

In theory would adding 2 ohm resistors would drop the volume 3db, but this is extra for your amp, just add an external amplifier, for me, 20 watts per speaker is way more than enough if you want to keep your hearing.
I'm trying to avoid that. I'm trying to do as simple of an upgrade as I can. This is not my main car, its just a car that I bought as my commuter since my new job is about 120 miles west. I just want a nice simple and cheap sound bump. Plug and play speakers. My real baby is a decked out Infiniti G37 coupe.
 

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Don't add any resistors to the speaker wiring. Speaker impedance is different from DC resistance.

What year/make/model/options do you have?

For example, my cheap base model Sonata already has a 2-ohm impedance load. The door+dash speakers, both 4-ohms, are wired in parallel, as are many cars. Dash or upper door mid/tweets add to imaging so most won't disconnect them when replacing the cheap 1-way door speakers with 2 or more waycoaxials.

Most headunits and amps will tolerate a load until they overheat or overvolume'd.

To keep it simple, use the coaxials in the back door. Use crossover components up front.

Rear door:
https://www.infinityspeakers.com/KAPPA+62.11I.html

Front door:
https://www.infinityspeakers.com/KAPPA+60.11CS.html

Some also like the dominant front central soundstage. To prevent the rear from overpowering the ambiance of the music, I would put the Infinity 2-way components in the front door, and then use a more common 4-ohm coaxial out back.

If I were to use 'box' name brand speakers, I would:
front door: https://www.infinityspeakers.com/KAPPA+60.11CS.html or splurge https://www.infinityspeakers.com/speakers/REFERENCE+6530CX.html

and back door or any equivalent 4-ohm or lower efficient speakers:
XR-1800 XR-Series 7" Oversized Custom Fit Coaxial Speaker System | eXcelon | Car Entertainment | KENWOOD USA
https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/Z-Series/TS-Z65F
https://www.alpine-usa.com/index.php/product/view/r-s65

If you like a little volume, you'll need to splice in a booster amp. The Alpine KTP445 has a following but the other brands, like Sony, Clarion, are just as good with their compact amps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
2018 Value Edition

Don't add any resistors to the speaker wiring. Speaker impedance is different from DC resistance.

What year/make/model/options do you have?

For example, my cheap base model Sonata already has a 2-ohm impedance load. The door+dash speakers, both 4-ohms, are wired in parallel, as are many cars. Dash or upper door mid/tweets add to imaging so most won't disconnect them when replacing the cheap 1-way door speakers with 2 or more waycoaxials.

Most headunits and amps will tolerate a load until they overheat or overvolume'd.

To keep it simple, use the coaxials in the back door. Use crossover components up front.

Some also like the dominant front central soundstage. To prevent the rear from overpowering the ambiance of the music, I would put the Infinity 2-way components in the front door, and then use a more common 4-ohm coaxial out back.

and back door or any equivalent 4-ohm or lower efficient speakers:

If you like a little volume, you'll need to splice in a booster amp. The Alpine KTP445 has a following but the other brands, like Sony, Clarion, are just as good with their compact amps.
Some great info there. I chickened out and just purchased the
Infinity Primus PR6502is - rear coaxial
Infinity Primus PR6500cs - component rear

$110 for the set, and they are 3 ohm so that puts me a bit more at ease.

I never heard of an amp like that Kenwood! Looks like a perfect moderate upgrade for something like what I would be wanting to do but will it plug and play factory integrate?
 

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Let us know how it works out for you. Are you DIY or having the local shop install them? Take some pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm DIY for something that should be this easy I'll try to document everything as much as I can to help others like me out there. The Elantra AD is still pretty new so there really isn't that much good information out there yet.

I'm really trying to keep everything plug and play. if i can figure out a way to get an amp in there without splicing anything then i'm in. I don't want to cut a single factory wire if I can help it.
 
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